I was physically and mentally tired out. My emotions running wild, I was homesick and racked with guilt for annoying Geoff. How could I make it up to him when I was facing hundreds of miles of rough road slowing him up with my inexperience. It's tough when you know someone is better off without you. I thought of the encouraging texts I'd received from my brother Phil. 'Lean on the Lord and nothing will befall you.' I was brought up a Christian but never understood religion. Why are there so many? All religions seem to do is fight each other. It seemed to me that everyone needs something to believe in and simply picks a religion that suits their lifestyle or culture. Too many questions and not enough answers. My answer was to live a good clean life, trying to do good things, at least that way I knew I wasn't a bad man.
But I never became the man I though I was. Here I am, nearly forty years old, gave up a decent job, sold everything to get just enough money to ride a bike around the world, hoping to have something interesting to talk about to my kids if I'm ever lucky enough to have any. This really is a once in a lifetime experience for me, I own nothing except my bike, and I'm doing my best to wreck that in the middle of Siberia. I must be mad. I didn't even know who I was anymore. I had lost myself so what else was there to lose? I prayed like I'd never prayed before.
'Ok Lord, you win. I'm a beaten man, please help me to be the man you want me to be!'
The bike seemed to float for a moment and I felt as if I was being cradled in a hammock. What was happening to me? My tears flowed through the dust on my face. I could barely see the narrow wheel tracks in between the gravel. A voice spoke to me.
'Don't cry. I can show you the way my son, but I still need you to steer the bike!'
I desperately wiped my face trying to understand what was happening. I must be going insane. Could it really be God speaking to me or is my weakened mind playing tricks. The engine sounded like I needed to change up a gear but I didn't, I was riding 10mph faster! How could this be? From that moment I knew Geoff and I would both be safe, we wont crash and the bikes wont break. I can't explain how good it felt to be there at that moment. God had saved me from myself. How am I going to explain this to Geoff? Everyone is going to think I'm a nutter! Or maybe everyone thinks I am anyway. Maybe I'll tell him tomorrow.
Riding a motorcycle has often been compared to having a religious experience. I never expected to actually have one while riding my bike!
I saw Geoff having a moment in a deeper part of the gravel but he saved it. Just then my front wheel dug in at 30mph and I was out of control and going down. The bike dived to the left and suddenly accelerated straightening itself up. I was still on the bike and heading for the trees! I shut the throttle and came to a stop at the edge of the road. All I know is I didn't do anything to save that crash. Someone is looking after me.
One of the machines spreading this pleasant road surface beeped its horns for us to stop. Geoff climbed up to the driver and was given a rude air freshener. We were surrounded my workmen offering food and vodka! It's a shame to turn down their generosity but we have to ride the bikes!
Geoff found a beautiful meadow to camp. The steep slope and deep wheel rut meant Geoff had a bike to ground interface. Makes for a good photo though, I've done it myself three times so far. I was still grateful he rode mine for me through the water under a railway bridge and into the meadow. Wild red lillies and many colourful flowers made a stunning campsite.
I was woken by a loud roar. Geoff snored peacefully. I've heard a few strange noises in the night during this trip but this time it wasn't Geoff. The roaring got louder and closer. It could only be a bear! I thought it prudent to hide in the tent and not look. Closer and closer. I couldn't believe Geoff was still asleep. I would have to wake him, but the bear was very close, what should I do? I waited to see if the bear got any closer, it must be within 50ft of the tents. It sat there for a while grunting it's discontent at our presence. There was a large stick near the fire but could I find it in the dark? The last thing I wanted to do was fight a bear but if it came any closer I would have to do something to protect Geoff. I'm no hero but I have nothing to lose. I listened intently for the bears next move. Slowly, the roaring started moving away! Wow that was close! Maybe it got a whiff of our boots or maybe it thought Geoff was another bear snoring....
We were safe to ride again another day on the world's third most dangerous road.
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