The lights are out, and he's off!

I spent an extra day in Seattle trying to fix my bike. Triumph at Tacoma would gladly look at the bike for me but didn't have a much needed clutch cable. Luckily, out of all the Triumph dealers here, Cascade Moto Classics in Beaverton Oregon had one in stock. As it was nearly 200 miles away I thought it best to give the bike a good check over. After much fettling, I stumbled across the cure. I'm not sure exactly what I did but the engine light stayed out! Obviously a bad connection somewhere.

I could relax for a change and plan an early start to Beaverton. I tried to phone a few campsites to check availability, but all were too busy to even reply to my messages. Thats Labor day weekend for you. Everyone is driving their 'land yachts' towing a spare car, and slowing my pace. I wish they could see the benefits of riding a motorcycle without every single creature comfort known to man. Why do you need to take your house with you? I braved the mobile buildings heading South for nearly 200 miles and amazed myself by finding the Triumph dealer at my first attempt.

A clutch cable for $40 and while I was there, asked about some spark plugs. Rick the mechanic was snowed under but if I helped him would do it right away! I doubt my local Triumph dealer would do that for me...

I took the opportunity to fit the cable and a K&N air filter that had survived the journey with me. Two hours and another $100 and I was ready to go. The bike is running perfectly. I thanked the staff for helping me at such short notice, they were amazing people and hanging out at their dealership was like being home from home. I've been told it's the best Triumph dealer in the USA and I can believe it. Thanks again guys!

www.cascademoto.com

I planned to ride to Silver Falls campsite hoping that somewhere around that area I could find a spot in one of the many sites in that region. Then something unusual happened. I had a phone call waiting in the Cascade Moto Classics office. I remembered I'd posted a message on the Triumph RAT site explaining where I'd be in Oregon that day. Stan Hellman greeted me on the phone and offered to show me some great biking roads over the weekend if I wished to stay at his place. How could I refuse such generosity?

I had time to check out the Black Bear diner before Stan arrived on a silver Tiger 955, looking considerably cleaner than my road weary machine.

That evening I was whisked around Portland in Stan's Mazda MX5, designed for people under 6ft, and sampling the locally brewed beer.
Portland is a beautiful city, full of life and I would've missed it all if it wasn't for Stan. That's what's so great about traveling, where you go isn't as important as who you meet. The people make the places what they are, so you experience it rather than just seeing it.

Tomorrow, Saturday, I've been promised to ride biking roads unlike anything I've ever seen. I can't wait.

The lights are on and I'm far from home.

I'm going to miss Port Townsend, especially the sourdough pizzas! Judging distances here takes some getting used to, everywhere is along way away but compared to Russia, not so far! It's good to be back on the road, even if it was only back to Seattle, but I promised to visit my cousin Alycia and her family. She'd booked a hotel for me which I stumbled upon accidentally, as the name had changed. There's too much information along the roads here, it's almost impossible not to look at all the neon signs, adverts and info along the way, as well as having to follow the road signs and scribbled directions on my tank bag in busy traffic. Totally different to riding in Russia.
Only a short run to Ballard to Alycia's house in a very nice area. We sat eating a traditional American dish, pizza. She has an amazing family and I'm glad to be related to such nice people.
Unfortunately my bike wasn't happy. The engine management light (or money light, mechanics tanning booth light etc.) refused to go out. It seems to run ok so I think it's a minor problem but I have to go to a Triumph dealer to be certain before crossing the US. There's one South of here in Tacoma and another one near Portland, Oregon so if it's nothing major, I can continue. The only problem I've had with the engine so far was occasionally running on 2 cylinders instead of 3. I attributed that to the poor petrol in Russia but I did it again twice here as well. Maybe a fuel injector problem caused by all the bad fuel, which will clear eventually or maybe that's why the engine light is on. It's a common problem with Triumphs to have this light stay on and usually nothing serious. I haven't touched any electrical components, so I know it's nothing I've caused which makes it harder to locate a problem.
I haven't budgeted for expensive repairs but if the worst happens I can sell the bike to get home. Not a choice I want to make, it's all I own.
The bike got me this far so I'm sure it can manage a few thousand miles more...

Captain Kelly

David took me to the customs office on Friday to fill the necessary form and get the release form stamped. Then on to Mercers new warehouse to collect the bike. Everyone I speak to mentions Rodrigo, the Brazilian I met in Vladivostok who is in a hurry to get to New York. He had been constantly pestering everyone to get his bike quickly as if it was their duty to obey him. He was long gone with his bike when I arrived and so had Geoff, who I was hoping to meet. I'm glad he got his bike and I hope it started ok, it still has Russian petrol in it!
I was lucky because David had a trailer for my bike. This meant no $50 disposal fee for the crate and I could check the bike over at his house before riding it.
On the way back we stopped at Costco, the largest shopping warehouse I've ever seen! Everything you want as long as it's bulk size!

The bank decided to cheer me up by stopping my card again. Their explanation was that there is a big problem at the moment with ATM card fraud in the US. That maybe so but as I'm here in the US I'm going to need money. Again they assured me all will be fine, unless I decide to go to Canada, where I'd be better off having cash. But every time I make a large withdrawal my card gets stopped again. Also, not being a US resident with a zip code, my credit card is basically useless in most places, as their computer systems wont accept foreign cards. Frustrating to say the least!

Early Saturday we unpacked the bike. The crate was not a good one so will be firewood for David. It's a strange sight opening a crate and seeing your bike inside but I'm glad it made it here ok. No time to check it over properly because after all the rain recently, today finally is perfect sailing weather!
The outboard motor kept flooding with fuel so David went to get some more spark plugs, leaving me on the boat with his friend Steve. Before we got going, all the safety aspects were double checked, and once safely away from the ferries, I was shown how to steer, keeping the wind in the sails. Not easy at first but I soon got the feel for it. I've never been on a sailboat before and I can see why so many people do it. It's great fun, but I prefer my bike!

I don't hate ATMs anymore, I hate the bank!

Cargozone, the Korean container company have been less than helpful. The ship had arrived late Friday night on the 15th. Luckily David knows how things work here and soon had all the information I needed via Hanjin shipping and Mercer distributors. All I needed was a bill for the amount owed to Cargozone for them to release the bike after customs had finished their checks. These checks took from Monday until Wednesday, then the container was moved to Mercer's warehouse in Fife where I can collect the bike on Thursday or Friday. One of these checks involved the USDA (Dept. of Agriculture) having to break open my crate to see what was inside. They are used to dealing with 'aloominum' crates and my crate was an insufficient wooden one made in Korea.
All I have to do is fill out a customs form in Seattle, pay Cargozone and collect the bike. Unfortunately Cargozone haven't yet sent me the bill. They assured me it would be no more than $100 but when they finally emailed me today, Thursday, it was $355 for handling and the USDA test. For some reason they wont accept a card payment which means I'll have to arrange a money order from the post office.
I withdrew $200 so I had enough cash in total to pay Cargozone, then decided to get some more to cover any more hidden costs from Mercer warehouse, but my visa didn't work.

I was well within my daily limit from an ATM but had to use all my mobile phone credit calling the UK 'helpline' because they don't have a freephone number like most places here in the USA do. They stopped my card for the same reason they stopped it in Russia. I was making large withdrawals. I again explained that not everyone accepts a card payment. All was restored and I had to wait 10 minutes before using it again. I waited longer but it still didn't work. An hour later still no luck. At least I had enough for the money order so went back with David to scan it and email it to Cargozone so they could sign the release form for the bike. I tried to add credit to my phone on my email account but unfortunately the system doesn't accept foreign issued cards without a USA postal code.
Once we returned to the post office to send the money order, a visit to Safeway to buy a phonecard and most importantly, locally brewed cold beer.
Cargozone meanwhile, have signed the release form thanking me for my business. I'm glad they appreciate my custom because it's never going to happen again. Tomorrow we head into Seattle to complete the custom form and collect the bike from Mercer's.
I really have missed my bike!

Planes and boats and....a bus

Needless to say I didn't require an ongoing flight when I entered the USA, just my fingerprints and a photo. Different countries may have different rules but is it too hard for them to communicate? Once I found my baggage I phoned David Janos, an amazing guy I met in Dubrovnik. He was travelling Europe using public transport and hiking around any mountain range that was in the way. That's the 'proper' way to travel apparently.
I followed his instructions and got the bus downtown, then walked a short way to the ferry terminal. A huge ferry wafted me across to Bainbridge Island, giving me beautiful views of Seattle and the surrounding bay. David arrived to drive me to Port Townsend via a scenic route. Such an amazing place, but I promised not to tell anyone because the locals want to keep it that way!

David designed and built his own house, and soon showed me to my accommodation. A yacht in his garden! He is also a boat builder, (and a pilot!) and before I knew it, I was set up with a computer and WI FI in the boat. He's also a computer expert....

No sooner had I phoned the airline to refund my ticket, incredibly simple and fast, I had a confirmation email in less than a minute. Customer service in the USA really is second to none.
The cool evening was spent with a cold beer on David's sailboat. If the weather is ok this week, we can go sailing! Life really is rough here but I think I could get used to it.
I love America!

Seoul, Tokyo and onwards....?

I had fun in Incheon airport due to the information on the internet being incorrect. There's always someone to ask and I was soon shuffling along queues and being herded into the departure lounge like human cattle. This is the first time I've been on a plane in 20 years! I was hoping the pilots had more training than the less than smooth local taxi and bus drivers.
I didn't expect much legroom so I wasn't disappointed when I didn't get any. Sitting behind the toilet wall and next to the galley was probably the worst seat on the plane but I was excited at moving on to another country.
Flying above the heavy rain over Seoul was a welcome change and by the time I'd identified most of the food precariously sliding around on my sloping table (my knees were too high...) I was looking down on the beautiful Japanese coastline. The weather was perfect and I guessed the huge volcano above the clouds must be mount Fuji, an awesome sight.

I had more fun at the check in desk at Tokyo airport. Apparently all Japanese tourists to the USA need an ongoing flight booked before entry otherwise they will be deported back to Japan. I said I'm British and this rule doesn't apply to me. They were adamant that this applied to everyone and told me to wait for a customs officer. Naturally I was less than impressed but the custom officer would not let me board the plane unless an onward ticket was purchased. I was lead across the airport to a United Airline desk where they assured me the ticket was fully refundable. It's all about numbers and I'm sure someone is making a profit from all these pre-booked tickets. It was getting close to boarding time and I was now at the back of the queue. Just to make me laugh even more I was chosen for a new type of search involving my bag and myself being searched and weighed so the airline can gauge an average weight of passengers. At least I was 18kg lighter! I soon relaxed into a large 'economy plus' reclining seat with almost enough legroom and a guy with a loud cough to keep me company for the next 9 hrs...

To begin any journey you must take the first step.

Mike and Jo flew home yesterday after travelling for 12 months on their BMW they nicknamed 'The Elephant.' You can see photos of their amazing journey at http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/tstories/hannan/
I shall miss them and hope to see them in Australia one day.
Last night I had a meal with Wendy choi, the lady who arranged our bike shipments for us. She also wants to travel and asked me about Turkey as she heard it was a dangerous country. Istanbul excluded as I never went there, the rest of the country is very friendly. Any country you choose someone will tell you it's dangerous but usually they are not speaking from experience. Wendy is doubtful about her travelling abilities and feels 'safe' in her job, not knowing if she will ever have the courage to go. I felt the same before I left. Once a plan was laid out and more information gathered, the ball started to roll and here I am in Korea! You never know what tomorrow may bring, travelling or not. This is the hardest thing I've ever done but also the most rewarding because of it. I doubt I could be much further away from my 'comfort zone' and like I've said before, living a rich life has nothing to do with money or possessions, it's all about experiences.
A small boy in a shopping centre today got separated from his mother because he was too scared to step onto the escalator. I held out my hand and he took it, taking the first step with me and he was fine. Sometimes you just need a helping hand to take the first step.

Tomorrow I move back into the Namsan Guesthouse for my last night in Korea. It's a case of shuffling from one place to another trying to find a room as everywhere is fully booked.
Friday is the 60th anniversary of Liberation day and is a national holiday. I hope the bus to the airport is still running! I've enjoyed Korea very much but I'm looking forward to America. Naturally I'm nervous at the prospect of going alone but given the size of my feet I can take the first three steps in one go!

Trim in more ways than one

I weighed myself today. I knew I'd lost some weight on my travels, but I was shocked. The combined weight of my backpack and bag is 18kg. Exactly the amount I've lost! When I left I was 120kg, now I'm a trim 102kg. Unbelievable! Maybe I should market the motorcycle travellers diet plan.
I finally found somewhere to get a haircut. Last night I wandered into the expensive Pacific Hotel to use their business centre to print my flight details. They were unaware I wasn't a guest and obliged. Given my attire, I'm surprised they let me enter in the first place. They have an in-house barber shop which I used the next day. Obviously I had to leave my two hairstylists at home through lack of room on the bike! When I wore a younger mans clothes, I would've been happy to use a trendy hair salon, but the styles they offer only seem to suit a full head of hair so I was glad to find a 'proper' gentleman's hairdresser.

I carefully lined up my dirty white trainers with the row of polished shoes outside of the spa entrance and was led to the barber. The view of the busy changing rooms in the mirror was a little disconcerting! I can't remember how long it's been since I had a cut-throat razor on my neck but he did an excellent job.

''Would Sir like it charged to your room?"
"Actually I prefer to pay cash thankyou!"
My trainers had been moved out of sight into a corner....

Making a meal out of a menu

I've been learning my way around Seoul. It's a busy city and something interesting around every corner. It's a heatwave here, temperatures averaging in the mid 30s and very humid. Luckily everywhere is air conditioned, even the underground markets. Except for my place, the Green Guesthouse. The lady owner has specific rules that cater for the undiscerning landlady not the guest. Air conditioning only at night, set at 30C, so hardly worth using. Sleep on top of the bed, not on the bedsheets. Internet access for two hours only from 8 a.m. to 10 a.m. and 8 p.m. to 10 p.m. But only for 20mins at a time and only for email!

It's a clean house and she means well but she needs a few lessons in customer service if she wants a successful business. The Guy at the Namsan Guest house warned me she has strange rules and also told me I could stay there if I preferred as there was a cancellation last night. Great, I would prefer very much but unfortunately I had to pay up front at the Green Guest house. I wasn't happy about that but at the time there was nowhere else to stay.

I have one night back at Namsan on Thurs 14th before flying to Seattle friday morning.
2.5 hours to Tokyo, a 3 hour connection and 8.5 hours to Seattle where I arrive 9.30 a.m. 2 hours before I left Seoul!

In Dubrovnik an American guy called David pitched his tent next to mine. He told me to contact him when I get to the States. I emailed him this week and he has kindly offered to let me camp in his yard at Port Townsend, 2.5 hours North of Seattle. It's such a relief to have somewhere to stay after unsuccessfully searching for a cheap hostel or motel. Everywhere is booked up, probably with British holidaymakers!
All I have to do now is plan a cheap route to New York!

It's quite a nice change to have a few days to relax, see the sights, and having friends here to spend evenings with. One restaurant in particular, misled us with the price. Mike specifically asked the owner how many people a meal served, and was told 3. The price was reasonable so we had a nice barbecued steak. The owner demanded 3 times the price on the menu! We argued that he was wrong to advertise a meal at a price than tell us it's different. The police were called, not wanting to get involved and after Mike spoke to someone on the phone in English, who understood how the problem arose, we agreed to pay with what we had, about two-thirds of the money. An entertaining evening!

Maybe it is a small world after all

It's very difficult finding anywhere cheap to stay at this time of year, but in Seoul we managed to book four days in the Namsan Guest house. Geoff will be leaving for a tour around Asia after two nights and I will be staying in Korea. Geoff almost convinced me to go to Hong Kong, even finding out flights etc. for me but to be honest, as a first time traveller, I really don't have the confidence to go there alone. If I survive the rest of this trip, then I think I will have the experience and confidence to travel further. Australia has always been somewhere I've wanted to go, so if I'm lucky enough to have an opportunity, I will see Hong Kong then.

Talking of Australia, I bumped into Mike and Jo, the Australian couple we'd met in Vladivostok. In a city the size of Seoul, this was an amazing coincidence. They had ridden around the coast, then shipped their BMW 1150 GS home, and in the meantime like me, were killing time here. They fly home Tuesday the 12th so that gives us plenty of time to have some beers first!

Geoff left early on Thursday the 7th. I was sad to see him leave but he was looking forward to travelling around Asia. I wish him well. He is braver than me and I look forward to hearing his adventures!

I hate ATMs....

In Zarubino we met a Korean girl called Heaven, who told us not to use the high speed trains in Korea as they are cramped and expensive. The buses however, are cheap and excellent. So we took her advice and boarded a 'Limo' bus to Seoul. Reclining seats and air conditioning are a far cry from buses in England.
Neither of us had planned to visit Korea, so didn't know what to expect. The mountains and lush green valleys made for the most picturesque bus journey I've ever had. Not that I've had many...
Crowds of people camped by large fast flowing rocky rivers, and even some heavy showers didn't dampen their enthusiasm. After about a three hour journey, we hunted for a guide map at the bus terminal. No luck anywhere. An expensive hotel directed us to the local tourist hotel, which at this time, rapidly turning in to apartments. The Dong Seoul hotel was the only choice and reasonable, so we booked three nights, planning to stay in the Mapo-Gu area afterwards, near to where Wendy Choi's ferry office is. We could pay her for shipping the bikes to Seattle for us. She had taken care of everything from arranging the trucks, crating, and was the only person who offered us LCL (less than container load) whereas the Russians expected us to pay for a 20ft container.
Not all plans work out, we couldn't find a motel anywhere with a twin room in the Mapo-Gu area, all had double beds. I'm sure I'd be the luckiest guy alive if that did it for me but definitely not my idea of fun! So we went back to Dong Seoul hotel again. At least it has free use of their two computers so I can catch up on my blog while Geoff makes use of the free Wi FI.

Both of us unsuccessfully tried several ATMs, so I asked in a bank if I could use my card to withdraw cash. They said yes and changed their cashpoint to English for me but still no luck. They recommended a cashpoint underneath a huge electronics shopping plaza called Techno Mart. I got caught up in a noisy protest march surrounded my dozens of riot police. I had no idea what the protest was for, and they had no idea I was in a hurry to resolve my stressful predicament.
I tried one and no luck. I asked in the bank there and nobody could give me an answer. Eventually a security guard came out and directed me to a global cashpoint. Success! Foreign cards wont work in Korean ATMs. Now they tell me....
Ever since my card was stopped in the middle of Russia, I've been a tad apprehensive every time I have to use one.

The Seoul metro looks confusing but actually is very simple and very cheap. All the stations are numbered, so you only have to remember a number not a place name. About 50 pence a trip on a fast, modern air conditioned train. Much wider Trains and nicer than the old London underground! We had a wander around the Jongmyo Royal Ancestral Shrine, almost deafened by thousands of cicada beetles in the trees. They are everywhere in Korea but here must be their favorite spot, bless their little Seouls....

Dong Chun ferry to Sok Cho South Korea.

Not much sleep last night. The noise vibrations of the ferry kept me awake, along with the worry of knowing I would ride alone across America after Geoff said he was keen to get to his brother in San Francisco. I miss my brothers also and no doubt I would do the same thing. I guessed at some point that we would ride separately on this trip so we can have our own adventures and sometimes in at the deep end is the quickest way to learn the ways of the world, all I need to do is regain my confidence and I'll be fine. After Russia maybe I have enough experience now, it's just a big step into the unknown for me. But then the whole trip has been and despite a few hiccups, everything always works out in the end.

I've heard many people say you must learn the difference between a tourist and a traveller, and I certainly have!

A beautiful day greets us in Sok Cho, and after the huge interest in my motorcycle jacket safety pad inserts by custom officers, we are allowed to unload the bikes into a warehouse. Dan phones Wendy Choi from the Dong Chun ferry office and within the hour our bikes are ridden onto pallets and loaded onto two small trucks. Dan was flying from Incheon airport and we were shipping ours out from Busan. A sad sight indeed, watching your pride and joy being driven away into the hands of others.

A German guy we saw leaving Zarubino on the ferry we missed, was still in customs. Germany never signed the 1949 international driving treaty so he had to return to Russia having no permission to drive in Korea. And we thought our planning was bad....

None of our mobile phones work on Korea as they use CDMA (Code Division Multiple Access) and not our GSM (Global System for Mobile) this was a surprise for us!

So if you want to contact me or Geoff please do so on the poocirculation@hotmail.co.uk email address, or you're welcome to leave messages on my blog!
Sok Cho is a beautiful city, especially if you like seafood! Dozens of restaurants with huge fish tanks along the streets, full of fish too lively for me! Some of them looked like we'd have to fight to see which one of us will be eaten!
A complete stranger sat at a table next to us outside a chicken restaurant in the stunningly lit streets. He offered us some of his honey chicken and a drink of his Soju, not quite as strong as some of the vodka we were accustomed to, but very nice.
I think I'm going to enjoy Korea!

Dosvidanya Russia!

Alexander the 'Architect' arrived at 7a.m. Friday 25th to see us onto the ferry. Unfortunately Rodrigo arrived to see if his bike was loaded onto a truck and couldn't find the keys. I had to lock up and he was making us late. I gave the key to the 'Architect' and we had to leave on our own. Carving through the morning traffic was no fun but we made the ferry with 5 minutes to spare. We were first on followed by two huge custom cruiser bikes ridden by two local guys on their way to meet some American friends at Zarubino. We were welcome to follow them to the ferry as we didn't have a map for that road! The 'Architect' appeared on the ferry saying he wanted to see us off safely! Top bloke! He told us Rodrigo's keys were hanging on the bike mirror!

Everything was working out fine, the road was one of the best from Slavyanka to Zarubino and only about 30km not 60km like we'd been told. Beautiful scenery, mountains and tree lined valleys with rocky rivers and we found a very good cheap hotel!

On Saturday 26th I saw Hans and Volker appear on their BMWs. They had been held up by a strange misfortune. After riding all the way across Russia and the Amur highway, they were caught in a storm near Vladivostok and a tree fell onto Hans knocking him out. He was taken to hospital and was ok! His bike was fixed by local bikers and he knew how lucky he was! He showed me part of the tree embedded in his helmet!
We had to pay 200 rubles to allow entry to the docks at 1 .p.m. Then $100 customs tax then 460 rubles for the boarding pass. We already had a passenger ticket $220bought at the Dong Chun ferry office in Vladivostok but the bike had to be paid for upon arrival in Korea, another $300.
The custom lady approached us in the waiting lounge saying "Problem."
Although our visa's were valid for 90 days the bike declaration given us in Russian was only valid for two weeks! We were only doing what we were told to do in Sochi and couldn't understand why they only gave us two weeks for the bikes. We couldn't leave on this ferry and would have to return on Monday to pay a fine. We pleaded to find a resolution and were told to wait. The ferry was delayed for 4hrs so we had a chance. Naturally Rodrigo was first in line on his bike before the ferry had finished docking and was told to return.
We waited. Every half hour we checked with the customs office and the boarding office but no news. Hans and Volker bid us farewell and boarded the boat. we were more annoyed at having to leave them than miss a ferry, but on the plus side we wouldn't be with the Brazilian.
We waited. Still no news. 9.30 p.m. and the ferry doors closed. I didn't give up, pestering everyone for an answer. We were told to wait as things may change. 9.45 p.m. we had a definite answer, NYET!
It was no use as we watched the ferry leave without us. It was nearly dark so we hurried back to the hotel hoping we could get a room. Riding around the small bay was saw the ferry heading out to sea. Not a nice sight!
Two more days in Russia and the prospect of a fine and more paperwork on Monday.

Monday saw Dan from Romania arriving nursing a bad elbow. He was involved in an 'accident' after a man at the side of the road waved to him and he thought there was a problem with the road and jumped from his bike falling badly. His KTM 400 ex-army bike was ok but suffered radiator damage bouncing on the back of a lorry getting a lift into Vladivostok!
Three guys took three hours to process all the documents Monday afternoon, after we had to pay another 200 rubles to enter the docks again....
A fine of 1500 rubles and an explanation from the English speaking lady, Natasha, from the ticket office. We signed to say we broke customs law. Then again to say why we broke it (ignorance) then again to say there was no interpreter at Sochi. Then again to say this was all verbal with no recording equipment or cameras, It went on and on and I felt like a soap 'star' at a book signing. At least we knew we were on this ferry! The bikes had an entire car deck all to themselves and we marvelled at the beautiful coastline of Zarubino. After loading the bikes we had to return for customs. Then another problem. Natasha came to us saying there was a mistake on our bill of lading. GBR in Russia means Germany and it had to be changed to GRB! Does all this Russian paperwork ever end? Well, yes, after we walked through customs, unhindered by any recount of all our 'necessary' hotel registrations, Russia was behind us.
It's such a shame that the old Soviet rules still apply in so many places. It's as if they are too afraid to move on, or maybe set in their ways. All they need to do is make it easier for travellers and the whole world will see what wonderful people they are.

We had economy tickets so we slept on the floor with thin mattresses but as there wasn't many passengers, piled them three high!
Next stop Sok Cho, South Korea!

Go Vostok!

Rodriguez, the Brazilian arrived with his broken Yamaha 250 on the back of a Vlad Moto truck. He was riding with a friend from Portugal to New York but had bike problems. We later discovered all the problems were caused by his arrogance. No tools, no maintenance and no idea meant his big end bearings had gone, the chain had snapped, his frame was snapped, and not before Mikail's patience also snapped. Rodriguez did nothing to help and expected everything to be done for him. He had a personal fixer who planned the whole trip ahead for him. Mikail asked him to remove the plastics and battery to ensure the bike was welded quickly. The Brazilian just left it all to them. Next morning Mikail arrived and let his frustration show.
"How can this guy ride around the world with no tools? He rode four days with a noisy engine until someone at a fuel station told him to put some oil in. He never lubed the chain and when I asked him to remove the battery and he said 'Bike has battery?!! I don't want to help this guy!" Well, we all laughed....
The next four days were spent trying to find a cheaper way to the USA. Problems with fumigated wood for the crates not being available in Russia, long shipping routes to Anchorage, crazy flight prices and crate sizes too small for the bikes and general uncertainty of extra charges. Japan was too complicated, needing the bikes to be registered and not having a Carnet meant Korea was the cheapest option. Mikail drew me a map of the ferry route from Vladivostok to Slavyenko, and road to Zarubino, where we could get a ferry to Sok Cho in South Korea. This meant we would also miss 200km of bad road. Sounds good to me.
Andrei, the club secretary, told me about the best day of the year in Vladivostok tomorrow, speedway! We had to go.
We changed our chains and sprockets, Geoff showing me how to split a chain and break the splitter, but one of the mechanics had one and removed my chain for me. Geoff fixed the new rivet link on for me doing a top job.
That evening Andrei chauffeured us and his wife Ulia to the stadium to watch Commander (team) Vostok against the Ukraine. A walkover, 60-30 to Vostok. An exiting night and Andrei was in his element, a huge fan.
A great day to end our stay in Russia, as tomorrow was our last day. Or so we thought....

Ussurisk Ride to work day celebrations

Jima, the old mechanic at Vlad Moto, meticulously spent two hours carefully plastic welding my broken chain guard and making a template before cutting a piece of sheet metal and riveting the two pieces together. I was amazed at his skills, a true artist and proud of his work. The finished chain guard, much improved on the original, and finished off to the highest standard, at no charge! I only asked if they had something I could use to fix it myself!

Phil and Dot arrived in their camper van, proudly showing off his new alternator. Nearly two weeks wasted waiting for it and Phil was eager to move on. After he bought us shashlik and a coffee! So good to see him happy and we wished him a safe journey. I would miss them and hope to see them in Ramsgate when they return.
Mad Max and a few others rode to Ussurisk that evening, keen to party. We would leave in the morning, proudly following Mikail on his Honda VX 1800 with beautiful tiger paintwork.
We left with six bikes, with more joining on route. Mikail followed later after more 'business.'
Soon there were 18 bikes with many more overtaking. A fantastic feeling and as we entered Ussurisk, we joined a whole park full of bikes.
We were introduced to Danielle Murdoch from New Zealand, an architect riding a Honda 250 all the way to London. She had conquered Vietnam and Cambodia so Russia should be a breeze.

The convoy of bikes to the campsite was helped by the police holding the traffic and red lights were ignored. A fantastic sight to have bikes as far as you could see! Just to celebrate 'Ride to work day.' In total around 270 bikes piled into a forested area by a large river. Everywhere we went people offered food and vodka, an amazing experience.
Later that evening I asked Alexander 'The Architect' and second in command of the Iron Tigers to tell everyone about Geoff's accomplishment of a million biking miles in his lifetime. Geoff was dragged on stage and given a T-shirt and the obligatory bottle of vodka. I got a good photo of him being given 'respect' from the crowd! A great night was had by all.
Danielle left heading to Kabarovsk in the morning and onto Mongolia. Much braver than me and her entire kit weighed 16kg, less than my trainers! After the a sauna and dive into the cold river for Geoff, while I bravely watched, we followed Mikail back to Vlad Moto. That was until he was overtaken by a Suzuki Bandit 1200 and most of a Yamaha R1. I was ushered to follow them, going slightly faster than the speeds I rode the first time I entered Vladivostok. Well, double actually, about 20mph less than the bike was capable of and about 20mph more than I was capable of....

Another vodka? Yes, I'm afraid it is....

Jacque and Mandy in a huge Toyota 4x4 arrived at the hotel. He was a South African living in Australia with a British passport. No I don't understand it either but they were heading in the same direction a s Phil and Dot, so Phil at least had someone to drive with. Providing his alternator arrives...
I headed off to look for another Aussie couple, Mike and Jo, riding a BMW GS 1100 who had left a note on my bike. Phil Joined me for a stroll so he could tell me his worries waiting for his alternator and being stuck in Vladivostok a long way from his family, without letting Dot know just how depressed he was. He had to put on a brave face to keep her spirits up. I was concerned about running out of money in the States as some of the shipping quotes we got were more than the bike was worth! We both knew everything would work out fine somehow and cheered each other up.
We said our farewells and rode to Vlad Moto. I didn't get much sleep as usual, choosing to sleep on the office floor giving Geoff some space upstairs. Very heavy rain all night and throughout the day, meant we had a damp bus ride back to the hotel to use their free WI FI! The quote for flights were ridiculous so we decided shipping the bikes was the way to go, we just had to find a company who would let us share a container, but that's not the Russian way of doing things. They have a set way, with no compromise and if you don't ask the rights questions, you won't get the answer you want. They don't give alternatives to their straight answers. For example, I asked Mikail if I could make him a coffee.
"No."
"Ok, no problem. Is there anything else I can get you?"
"I don't drink coffee in the afternoons, only in the morning."
"Ok, I understand, would you like me to get you something else to drink?"
"In the evenings I drink maybe, tea."
"Ok, would you like me to make you a cup of tea?''
"Yes."
Mike and Jo arrived to wash their bike the next morning, otherwise they would get charged $1000 for customs to clean it for them when entering Australia! We changed our brake pads and when Phil and Dot arrived in a taxi I went back to the hotel with them on the bus (about 25p) to use the hotel WI FI. Geoff sent a text message saying how enjoyable the Iron Tigers barbecue was....
They were celebrating a shipment of bikes arriving and were decidedly over refreshed with drink when I returned. I still had to help resolve the problem of the vodka bottle needing to be empty long after Geoff staggered upstairs. At least I slept well that night!

Coffee sir? Bear with me.

We saw our first bear today before our morning coffee. Luckily for us it was in a cage outside a cafe. Not so lucky for the bear, but at least we felt safe. Safe until Geoff got a bit close taking a photo and it took a swipe at his leg....
Here's a travel tip. If you leave empty drinks cartons on the bike because there isn't a bin nearby, be prepared for a thousand ants hitching a ride!
The road to Vladivostok is a busy one, mainly because it's the only road! We made it to Ussurisk and luckily found a cheap hotel with secure parking in the town centre. A big guy working as a doorman for the cafe next door has a broken Honda Blackbird and would keep an eye on the bikes for us. Top bloke. In the morning I found a note on the bike from a local guy wanting to ride to Vladivostok with us, but he had to go to a bike meet that weekend. It must be a big meet judging by dozens of bike we saw riding in the opposite direction from us!
The last 30km into Vladivostok was a very busy dual carriageway leading straight into the town square. We had made it!
Typically all the hotels were expensive and as all the bikers had left town we had no luck finding the elusive Iron Tigers. No-one had heard of them except for a scrupulous taxi driver wanting 500 rubles....
The Hotel Vladivostok was our refuge for the next three nights in order to be registered. A fiat Ducato camper van sat in the car park and the next day we met Phil and Dorothy Spain, a lovely couple from Ramsgate on there way back home from the States via Russia, Mongolia and a few of the Stans. All they needed was an alternator from the UK. Their van had been raided and most of their stuff stolen and the alternator had mysteriously burnt out. All this happened on the boat from USA! To say Phil was in high spirits wouldn't be the truth....
Follow their amazing journey at http://www.wrinkliesontherun.com/ and feel free to donate to their charity!

I found the Iron Tiger's shop on the internet http://www.vladmoto.ru/ but no address. No-one knew where it was and it took three days for someone to answer the phone. That someone happened to be Mad Max, who swiftly turned up at the hotel on a souped up Honda Blackbird. His bike turned into a swift through the busy traffic as he led me to the shop. Geoff stayed behind to meet with Phil's Russian fixer to see if he could help us ship the bikes to Anchorage.
I met Mikail Shlushkin, the owner and leader of the Iron Tigers. All were busy doing 'business' and I was left to wander around for a while. I didn't feel welcome at all and was beginning to think it was a mistake to be there until Mikail finally came outside and welcomed me, saying they help all bikers and we were welcome to stay at there shop for as long as we liked for free!
Like I said before, you can get better than a Kwik Fit fitter....

Tarmac, tarmac, beautiful tarmac!! And a shower....

The last 420km to Kabarovsk was a mixture of tarmac and gravel We never knew if it would last, but as we rode across a long bridge over the huge river into Khabarovsk, I knew the tarmac would stay. We made it!
The Hotel Turist wouldn't let us stay for two nights. If we stayed for three we would have to register. One night is fine but there is no rule for two nights so that is a problem.
One night it is then...

After a morning spent taking turns in an internet cafe, we decided to head towards Vladivostok. Two bikers shouted 'respect' and told us to look for the Iron Tigers in Vladivostok. A guy pulled up alongside me and shouted 'All the way from London? You Superman!' Well, I didn't like to argue...
The obligatory storm followed us, finally catching up when we got held up by a guy and his girlfriend, obviously enjoying some medicinal vodka. A few more people arrived, photos were taken but we needed to get going before we got soaked. Not many places to camp, so a track around a field had to do. We shared a spot with some spiders the size of golf balls, and settled down to watch a beautiful sunset over Northern China, about 20km away.

I'll never moan about the M25 again!

Geoff was totally unaware of last nights frivolities with the bear. I needed some sleep almost as much as I needed breakfast. A few miles further along, our bad Russian caused the usual amusement for the cafe staff. We almost got what we ordered but they gave us a 'Russian Breakfast' sausage egg, and some fresh sweet pancakes at no extra charge. Very nice! As we were leaving a stranger approached and insisted we accept a gift of two pasta dinners and a tin of minced beef. All he wanted in return was a photo of the bikes. Everyday the Russian people amaze me with their open hearts. If only their roads were as nice!
Charlie from Australia stopped for a chat. All the bikers we meet seem to be going in the opposite direction....
He is on his way to London from Japan and told us the road is pretty bad from here on, maybe a full day of this crap, but gets worse for 100km or so, very bad unavoidable potholes, then sand. Ok, that Will be fun....

A large open area of gravel alongside a huge sign of the Amur Highway seemed a good place to camp but still no luck. A small chapel about 30 square feet was guarded by a stray dog. I had nothing for him but he let me inside anyway. I got down on my knees and thanked the Lord for getting us this far without crashing, or the bikes breaking. I prayed we would make it safely to the end of this highway and onto Vladivostok.

We pushed on, feeling very tired. This road really gives the bikes and your body a beating. A small side turning offered just enough cover not to be seen from the road. Perfect. As I fetched firewood I heard a car stop, then drive off. I saw a man in army camouflage picking through rubbish with his stick. We approached him, hand outstretched in friendship. He dropped his backpack and walked towards us. He said his ear is bad without a cigarette. Geoff obliged and once he saw we were not a threat, introduced himself as Alexander. Apparently there are bandits on this road...
He was born a Russian but since has been given a Khazakstan passport. In order for him to buy land in Russia he needs a Russian passport, even though he is Russian. The only way was for him to reach St. Petersburg, where he could get one, buy land and build a house with a vegetable garden. He is 60 years old an walking the width of Russia. He entertained us with travel stories, including one where he carried his bike 1500km before this road was built, and on one small part where he could actually ride it through some trees, went straight in between two brown bears. One of them he named the karate bear as it chased him knocking the trees down! His advice for us was to hang our socks near the tent so a bear will know it's not his territory. If we meet a Siberian Tiger we must wait until it moves before we can, unless it's already behind you. Top tips from a top bloke.
I asked him to stay with us but he wanted to reach the small chapel further along to sleep there. He remembers when it was the original border crossing.

Next day the road wasn't too bad, averaging 40-50mph. The oncoming convoys of Japanese cars who often take the best track along this road, were more dangerous than the surface. It was pure guesswork as to what side of you they would pass.

17 Korean Harley Davidsons appeared through the dust, they were going to Hamburg. Amazing guys riding totally inappropriate bikes for this road and I was worried about our Triumphs! I've never had so many photos taken of me!

Later we met Yoshi, a Japanese guy also on his way to Germany on an Africa twin, had ridden two days in the rain. His wide eyed gesticulating description of the oncoming potholes didn't fill me with confidence, but at least the sandy parts would be wet and not dusty. Everyday was bringing us closer to tarmac.....

Strange things happen when you travel.

I tried to concentrate on the beautiful scenery of purple and yellow flowers amongst the long green grass and the few trees that hide us from the road at night. This stretch of road was quite bad. Geoff can stand on the pegs and seems to drift across the surface, whereas my height means I can only sit and wobble along, hanging on for dear life. I try to remember all the tips Geoff and Rick gave me, keep a loose grip on the bars so the front wheel can find it's own way across the gravel, on and off the throttle to keep the front under some sort of control but soon enough after many a scary moment, my arms are aching. I'm full of awe at how people can ride off road, it's a strange feeling having the bike moving around underneath you, threatening to throw you at any moment.

I was physically and mentally tired out. My emotions running wild, I was homesick and racked with guilt for annoying Geoff. How could I make it up to him when I was facing hundreds of miles of rough road slowing him up with my inexperience. It's tough when you know someone is better off without you. I thought of the encouraging texts I'd received from my brother Phil. 'Lean on the Lord and nothing will befall you.' I was brought up a Christian but never understood religion. Why are there so many? All religions seem to do is fight each other. It seemed to me that everyone needs something to believe in and simply picks a religion that suits their lifestyle or culture. Too many questions and not enough answers. My answer was to live a good clean life, trying to do good things, at least that way I knew I wasn't a bad man.

But I never became the man I though I was. Here I am, nearly forty years old, gave up a decent job, sold everything to get just enough money to ride a bike around the world, hoping to have something interesting to talk about to my kids if I'm ever lucky enough to have any. This really is a once in a lifetime experience for me, I own nothing except my bike, and I'm doing my best to wreck that in the middle of Siberia. I must be mad. I didn't even know who I was anymore. I had lost myself so what else was there to lose? I prayed like I'd never prayed before.

'Ok Lord, you win. I'm a beaten man, please help me to be the man you want me to be!'

The bike seemed to float for a moment and I felt as if I was being cradled in a hammock. What was happening to me? My tears flowed through the dust on my face. I could barely see the narrow wheel tracks in between the gravel. A voice spoke to me.

'Don't cry. I can show you the way my son, but I still need you to steer the bike!'

I desperately wiped my face trying to understand what was happening. I must be going insane. Could it really be God speaking to me or is my weakened mind playing tricks. The engine sounded like I needed to change up a gear but I didn't, I was riding 10mph faster! How could this be? From that moment I knew Geoff and I would both be safe, we wont crash and the bikes wont break. I can't explain how good it felt to be there at that moment. God had saved me from myself. How am I going to explain this to Geoff? Everyone is going to think I'm a nutter! Or maybe everyone thinks I am anyway. Maybe I'll tell him tomorrow.
Riding a motorcycle has often been compared to having a religious experience. I never expected to actually have one while riding my bike!

I saw Geoff having a moment in a deeper part of the gravel but he saved it. Just then my front wheel dug in at 30mph and I was out of control and going down. The bike dived to the left and suddenly accelerated straightening itself up. I was still on the bike and heading for the trees! I shut the throttle and came to a stop at the edge of the road. All I know is I didn't do anything to save that crash. Someone is looking after me.
One of the machines spreading this pleasant road surface beeped its horns for us to stop. Geoff climbed up to the driver and was given a rude air freshener. We were surrounded my workmen offering food and vodka! It's a shame to turn down their generosity but we have to ride the bikes!

Geoff found a beautiful meadow to camp. The steep slope and deep wheel rut meant Geoff had a bike to ground interface. Makes for a good photo though, I've done it myself three times so far. I was still grateful he rode mine for me through the water under a railway bridge and into the meadow. Wild red lillies and many colourful flowers made a stunning campsite.

I was woken by a loud roar. Geoff snored peacefully. I've heard a few strange noises in the night during this trip but this time it wasn't Geoff. The roaring got louder and closer. It could only be a bear! I thought it prudent to hide in the tent and not look. Closer and closer. I couldn't believe Geoff was still asleep. I would have to wake him, but the bear was very close, what should I do? I waited to see if the bear got any closer, it must be within 50ft of the tents. It sat there for a while grunting it's discontent at our presence. There was a large stick near the fire but could I find it in the dark? The last thing I wanted to do was fight a bear but if it came any closer I would have to do something to protect Geoff. I'm no hero but I have nothing to lose. I listened intently for the bears next move. Slowly, the roaring started moving away! Wow that was close! Maybe it got a whiff of our boots or maybe it thought Geoff was another bear snoring....

We were safe to ride again another day on the world's third most dangerous road.