London England-Europe-Russia-America. 26 countries, 19661 riding miles.


England, Wales, France, Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany, Switzerland, Austria, Liechtenstein, Italy, Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia, Kosovo, Serbia, Montenegro, Albania, Macedonia, Greece, Bulgaria, Turkey, Russia, South Korea, Japan, North America (19 States, Washington, Oregon, California, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, Nebraska, Iowa, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, West Virgina, Pennsylvania, Maryland, New Jersey, New York) Ireland.
9882 miles (flights/ferries as the crow flies) TOTAL DISTANCE TRAVELLED 29543 Miles/47545 Kilometers

Trip Schedule

Ace Cafe, Stonebridge, London 7pm Mon 21st April-Send off with Riders Digest magazine. http://www.theridersdigest.co.uk/distribution.html
Official start-St. Teresas Hospice, Darlington, Co. Durham 11am Wed 23rd April St Georges Day.
Farleigh Hospice, Chelmsford, Essex 1pm Tues 29th April.
Dover, P&O ferry, 10am Thurs 1st May.
Europe 1 month.
Trabzon, Turkey to Sochi, Russia Tues 3rd June. 90 day visa.
Zarubino, Russia to Sok Cho Korea Mon 28th July.
Incheon, Korea to Seattle USA, via Tokyo, Japan Fri 15th Aug.
JFK New York to Gatwick UK, via Dublin, Ireland Wed 24th Sept
Official finish-Farleigh and St.Teresas Hospices dates TBA.


Many thanks to our sponsors!

I'd like to thank everyone who helped make this trip possible.


CitySprint www.citysprint.co.uk/
The Riders Digest www.theridersdigest.co.uk/

A special thankyou to Frank and Liz at http://www.triumph-online.co.uk/ for such generosity. They gave us almost all the spares and tools we needed to keep the bikes running across Russia, just because they were proud of two British guys wanting to ride two British bikes around the world.

A big thankyou to Graham at http://www.bykebitz.co.uk/ for the Airhawk seat cushion. Without a doubt the most comfortable bike seat I've ever had. Much more comfortable than a gel seat!
Thanks to David Gath at http://www.motohaus.com/ for the Ventura headlight guard. It saved my headlight on many occasions on the Amur Highway.
Thanks to http://www.wemoto.com/ for the brake pads.
Thanks to Rick and everyone at Casade Moto Classics, Beaverton, Oregon, for helping me at such short notice. http://www.cascademoto.com/

Thankyou to everyone who has given their time and effort to ensure the trip went smoothly.
It's the small companies who really make the world go round.

Thankyou Mark & Lee for ensuring we had a good send off, Roman for the tyres in Volgograd, Mikail & the Iron Tigers for the use of their shop, Phil & Dot for their friendship & inspiration, Wendy for shipping the bikes from Korea (& buying me dinner 3 nights in a row) Mike & Jo for keeping me sane in Korea, David Janos for amazing hospitality, advice, collecting my bike from Seattle & taking me sailing! Stan Hellmann for showing me the best of Oregon, Greg for air freighting the bike home & of course Geoff, for helping me realise my dream.

Wednesday 6 August 2008

Dosvidanya Russia!


Alexander the 'Architect' arrived at 7a.m. Friday 25th to see us onto the ferry. Unfortunately Rodrigo arrived to see if his bike was loaded onto a truck and couldn't find the keys. I had to lock up and he was making us late. I gave the key to the 'Architect' and we had to leave on our own. Carving through the morning traffic was no fun but we made the ferry with 5 minutes to spare. We were first on followed by two huge custom cruiser bikes ridden by two local guys on their way to meet some American friends at Zarubino. We were welcome to follow them to the ferry as we didn't have a map for that road! The 'Architect' appeared on the ferry saying he wanted to see us off safely! Top bloke! He told us Rodrigo's keys were hanging on the bike mirror!

Everything was working out fine, the road was one of the best from Slavyanka to Zarubino and only about 30km not 60km like we'd been told. Beautiful scenery, mountains and tree lined valleys with rocky rivers and we found a very good cheap hotel!

On Saturday 26th I saw Hans and Volker appear on their BMWs. They had been held up by a strange misfortune. After riding all the way across Russia and the Amur highway, they were caught in a storm near Vladivostok and a tree fell onto Hans knocking him out. He was taken to hospital and was ok! His bike was fixed by local bikers and he knew how lucky he was! He showed me part of the tree embedded in his helmet!
We had to pay 200 rubles to allow entry to the docks at 1 .p.m. Then $100 customs tax then 460 rubles for the boarding pass. We already had a passenger ticket $220bought at the Dong Chun ferry office in Vladivostok but the bike had to be paid for upon arrival in Korea, another $300.
The custom lady approached us in the waiting lounge saying "Problem."
Although our visa's were valid for 90 days the bike declaration given us in Russian was only valid for two weeks! We were only doing what we were told to do in Sochi and couldn't understand why they only gave us two weeks for the bikes. We couldn't leave on this ferry and would have to return on Monday to pay a fine. We pleaded to find a resolution and were told to wait. The ferry was delayed for 4hrs so we had a chance. Naturally Rodrigo was first in line on his bike before the ferry had finished docking and was told to return.
We waited. Every half hour we checked with the customs office and the boarding office but no news. Hans and Volker bid us farewell and boarded the boat. we were more annoyed at having to leave them than miss a ferry, but on the plus side we wouldn't be with the Brazilian.
We waited. Still no news. 9.30 p.m. and the ferry doors closed. I didn't give up, pestering everyone for an answer. We were told to wait as things may change. 9.45 p.m. we had a definite answer, NYET!
It was no use as we watched the ferry leave without us. It was nearly dark so we hurried back to the hotel hoping we could get a room. Riding around the small bay was saw the ferry heading out to sea. Not a nice sight!
Two more days in Russia and the prospect of a fine and more paperwork on Monday.

Monday saw Dan from Romania arriving nursing a bad elbow. He was involved in an 'accident' after a man at the side of the road waved to him and he thought there was a problem with the road and jumped from his bike falling badly. His KTM 400 ex-army bike was ok but suffered radiator damage bouncing on the back of a lorry getting a lift into Vladivostok!
Three guys took three hours to process all the documents Monday afternoon, after we had to pay another 200 rubles to enter the docks again....
A fine of 1500 rubles and an explanation from the English speaking lady, Natasha, from the ticket office. We signed to say we broke customs law. Then again to say why we broke it (ignorance) then again to say there was no interpreter at Sochi. Then again to say this was all verbal with no recording equipment or cameras, It went on and on and I felt like a soap 'star' at a book signing. At least we knew we were on this ferry! The bikes had an entire car deck all to themselves and we marvelled at the beautiful coastline of Zarubino. After loading the bikes we had to return for customs. Then another problem. Natasha came to us saying there was a mistake on our bill of lading. GBR in Russia means Germany and it had to be changed to GRB! Does all this Russian paperwork ever end? Well, yes, after we walked through customs, unhindered by any recount of all our 'necessary' hotel registrations, Russia was behind us.
It's such a shame that the old Soviet rules still apply in so many places. It's as if they are too afraid to move on, or maybe set in their ways. All they need to do is make it easier for travellers and the whole world will see what wonderful people they are.

We had economy tickets so we slept on the floor with thin mattresses but as there wasn't many passengers, piled them three high!
Next stop Sok Cho, South Korea!

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