A quick spin from the Ace Cafe, around the world and back.

Riding with Geoff on the M25 in the pouring rain is all I could've hoped for to end this amazing trip. The first time we'd ridden together since leaving the ferry at Sok Cho, Korea. We parked our bikes at the Ace in a special coned off area just for us, exactly where we started from. We were instantly surrounded by familiar faces that saw us set off back in April. I only expected a few to turn up in such bad weather but more and more bikes arrived and soon the car park was as overwhelmed as us. I doubt I'll ever be comfortable having my photo taken. I certainly didn't do this trip for an 'Around The World' badge! I'm just a geezer who likes riding motorcycles, but any publicity I can get for Farleigh Hospice is my pleasure.
One thing I missed on this trip was a good English breakfast, there's only so much Borsch and stale khleb a man can take! The Ace Cafe certainly serves up one of the very best. Many a time in Siberia I dreamt of what it would be like to be back at the Ace, sampling their famous sausages and proudly swapping biking stories with like minded strangers, with the same passion for motorcycles. It seemed like half a world away, and for a time actually was!

If you really want to live the dream, I've proved that anyone can do it. You will find a way. You don't need much money, you don't need previous experience, and you don't need meticulous planning. If you really want to plan a trip, don't waste time thinking of all the things you might need, just think of all the things you don't need! As long as you have a familiar reliable bike, basic tools and spares and a good quality tent that doesn't leak, you'll be fine. Even if you can't read a map, like all other things, it's an opportunity to learn! The journey may take a little longer that's all. A compass never lies, if you don't leave the road, how lost can you get?

People approached me saying they haven't got the guts to ride across Siberia, and yet they've ridden across the Scottish Highlands. What's the difference? If the worst happens, you still have to rely on a complete stranger to help you, and a Glaswegian accent is no worse than Russian! My whole trip across America was a result of meeting strangers, who became friends, leading to an extraordinary chain of events from Seattle to New York. A far better journey than any I could've planned.

When you are in the remotest of places, people are far more likely to stop and help because everyone out there is in the same boat and need to support each other to survive. I never met anybody anywhere who didn't want to help me.

Large cities where people are jostling for space, causes competitiveness, so you will take longer to find help because everyone assumes someone less busy than them can help you. This is why you can't judge Russia by Moscow, America by New York, or people by what the have, it's what they do that matters.
Some of the kindest, happy and most interesting people I met own nothing. But they are full of life, proud of who they are, what they have and give all they have to help you. They have riches beyond most peoples comprehension.

I have no house, no wife and kids, no job, no car and no money, but I am privileged, and having sampled some of what the world has to offer, consider myself to be a very rich man indeed.

To everyone who came to meet me at the Ace Cafe, expressed an interest in the trip, enjoyed my blog and donated money to Farleigh Hospice, thankyou is not a big enough word to express my gratitude.

So what next? Well it's a case of 'ridden around this planet' so when NASA realises that motorcycles are much cheaper to send to Mars than cars, and I can pretend to be under 6ft and 10 stone, who knows?

I hope to plan a smaller trip in the near future to continue raising money for Farleigh Hospice with my two brothers. Imagine three huge blokes riding Honda c90s! Who said you can't have a laugh with no money? If anyone can help with a decent c90 or two, please let me know!

Poor Circulation Grand Finale - Ace Cafe Sunday 16th November 10.30 AM

Ace Cafe London

Ace Corner

North Circular Road

Stonebridge

London

NW10 7UD

Tel: 020 8961 1000
GPS Coordinate N 51:32:26 (51.540455)

W 0:16:43 (-0.278664)
Ace Corner is the junction of Beresford Avenue and the old North Circular Road, between the A40 and the A404 (Harrow Road)

It feels a lifetime ago since we left the Ace cafe on 21st April, and strange to think we headed in one direction, East, and still ended up back where we started!

Sometimes I wonder if I actually rode all the way around the world, or if it just turned a full circle beneath me.

Settling back into 'normal' life is proving difficult, especially now I'm unemployed for the first time. Worst of all, because I gave up my job voluntarily, wasn't entitled to any Job Seekers Allowance, only receiving my first payment last week. The only way I can stay sane is by riding the bike, but that drinks almost as much petrol per mile as Geoff does coffee. So I took the first part-time job I could find, (a storeman in a shoe shop and no, they don't stock anything my size!) only to discover the JSA kindly give me £5, then take a pound for every one I earn over that amount. So I'm working for next to nothing and living on a budget of less than half of what I was on the trip!

Yesterday (Tuesday) Ongar Triumph kindly gave me a brand new Triumph Bonneville to play with while they fixed my oil leak. I made it look like a 125 but the further I rode, the more I enjoyed it. It's no sports bike, but the brakes and handling are good enough to have some fun on the B roads. Very smooth, easy to ride and the slickest gearchange on any bike I've ever ridden.

Very impressive, I didn't want to give it back! I'm already dreaming of riding one across the Rocky mountains....

My Tiger may not have as much 'street cred' as a Bonneville, but it does have an amazing engine. If I'm ever lucky enough to do another trip, I can't think of a better bike.

You never know whats around the next corner. But a motorcyclist knows taking the corner can be as much fun as finding out whats around it.

See you at the Ace!

An around the world Triumph.

After spending a long weekend enjoying the scenery with friends in Wiltshire, I paid a visit to Ongar Motorcycles today (Tuesday) to order the necessary parts so I can fix my oil leak. Brian the mechanic showed me the warranty application he'd sent to Triumph after I left last Wednesday, because he thought it was worth a try. Triumph, like most companies, don't usually honour claims without proof of regular services, but after Brian had explained my unusual journey they immediately agreed.

Unfortunately, Brian showed me an email he received from someone I didn't know suggesting that Ongar Triumph had been unhelpful toward me. This person was only trying to help my case but really should've contacted me first to get the facts before dishonouring someones reputation. Triumph had already agreed because of Brian's help. I apologised for the trouble he got from his boss after receiving this email. None of us expected Triumph to do the work, especially me, but I'm very grateful to Brian and everyone else at Ongar Motorcycles for going out of their way to help me.

Please visit their new website to see the full range of Triumph Motorcycles.

www.ongar-motorcycles.co.uk/

I've often been asked why I chose a Triumph instead of the equivalent BMW. I'm a fan of BMW but always loved Triumphs. After careful research the Tiger 955i was better in almost every aspect except off-road ability. Everything taken into consideration, especially the cost, the carrying capacity, the handling and reliability, in my opinion the Tiger is one of the best all round bikes ever made. Any all round bike is a compromise and none are perfect, but for me the Tiger is a perfect compromise. A guy my size carrying a ridiculous amout of kit is testament to how tough the Tiger is. I doubt any other road bike would've survived! Besides, it's British don't you know. Why fly the flag when you can ride it?

The Hospice Outreach Project.

Choosing a charity to support is a difficult decision. There are so many people in the world who aren't as fortunate as most of us. I have type 2 diabetes but I wanted to support people who need it most. I chose Farleigh Hospice because it's the sole provider of palliative care in Essex. Everyone knows somebody who has been affected by cancer or a life limiting illness. If there is no cure and the hospital can do no more, Farleigh Hospice continues to provide care free of charge, not only for the patients but also helping their families.

The HOP is a 7.5 ton vehicle, specially adapted from Farleigh Hospice.
It is air conditioned and heated for comfort.
The vehicle is 8.4 metres long and 3.9 metres high
When parked a special POD extends out of it to provide more internal room.
It takes 20 minutes to set up on arrival.
It will be visiting one location a day, 3 days a week.
It is estimated that the HOP will see 40 patients each day that it is out.
That means that it will visit 50 sites per year and see an estimated 6,000 patients in a year.
It is estimated that it will travel over 13,000 miles in a year around Braintree, Braintree District, Witham and Great Dunmow areas.

Extraordinary people who concentrate on life, not death. A philosophy I believe in.
This is possible only because of donations made by people who care. Most of the money raised by Farleigh comes from small donations. They need to raise £5000 each and every day to continue their vital services. A heartfelt thankyou to everyone who has donated to Farleigh Hospice.

If you wish to donate, you can do so through my just giving page until the 20th January 2009, www.justgiving.com/alankelly1
or please visit Farleigh website for information.
http://www.farleigh.org/about-farleigh-hospice.cfm
http://www.farleighhospice.org/farleigh-video.cfm

Count the garden by the flowers, never by the leaves that fall. Count your life with smiles and not the tears that roll. ~Author Unknown

The last 85 miles home.

Finally after waiting three long weeks, my bike landed at Heathrow airport on Wednesday 15th October. It should've only taken five days but cargo flights are not as regular lately. It was due to arrive on the 29th September, but didn't leave New York until the 12th October, taking the scenic route via Frankfurt to East Midlands airport before Heathrow. I decided not to use a shipping agent to save money, so I've had all the fun of contacting Lufthansa and being transferred around until finally speaking to the cargo company, to find out where to collect it. After three offices, two piles of paperwork, a long wait and £221 for customs and handling, I'm reunited with my well-travelled Triumph. It was nice to see it strapped safely to an aircraft pallet and not tied with rope inside a cheap Korean crate as it was when it arrived in Seattle.

It's strange to find your bike in a place where you didn't leave it, especially when you last saw it in a different country. I soon reacquainted myself with all my belongings that were mostly where I left them. There are a few things missing but nothing of value. Customs had made a thorough search. I was relieved to hear it start, almost at first attempt and carefully rode to the nearest petrol station. At least I don't have to call it gas anymore.

It was a joy to be riding again, even weaving through miles of stationary traffic on the M25. Probably the worst road in th UK, but I know the difference between a bad road and one thats just busy! Being caught in traffic is just an inconvenience. I doubt I'll ever again ride on roads as bad as some in Albania and Russia, well not on a road bike anyway! I felt proud to be riding in England again, with a sense of achievement, knowing that the bike had made it home safely as well as me.

I stopped at my local Triumph dealer to ask about the oil leak. Caused by an oil seal on the clutch arm, costing a grand total of 85 pence. I couldn't see how any dirt had possibly got in there...

Not straighforward to fix though, because in order to remove the clutch cover, the starter motor and engine covers have to be removed first. Add another £21 for three gaskets. Triumph wont honour the warranty because my service book isn't fully stamped. It would be if they bothered to open a dealership in Siberia! The mechanic also kindly reminded me the bike is now due for it's 24000m service at a cost of £450. I have friends in Vladivostok that would help me service it for free. Looks like I picked to wrong year to give up my job....

The road really does go around the world. The road to our future.

Many people doubted it could be done. Others said I was mad for even attempting it. I'll be honest and admit at times it was extremely difficult. Everyone doubts their own abilities, but you never know how strong you are until you have something to kick against. With perseverance, never being one to do things by half once I've committed myself, I completed an entire three course in-flight Aer Lingus meal! When you are hungry you'll eat anything.

I was surprised my wad of Dollars was enough for a coffee at the current exchange rate and in a state of shock, almost boarded a plane from Dublin to Scotland. The flight number was almost the same as mine, from the same gate, and looked close enough to my bleary eyes after no sleep all night.

I love the Irish accent, especially from a beautiful airline stewardess, and unlike most Americans, I can place accents to their countries, not that I'm bitter in any way at not being recognised as an Englishman across 19 States....

I think my luggage must have flown via Spain to Gatwick. It had obviously lost a bull fight, but there's nothing breakable, so I kicked it back into shape.

The sound of the London Estuary accent was the first sign of familiarity I'd had in a long time. It's strange how you long for something to remind you of home, even in America, it's still a foreign country with a foreign language. I had to learn to say things such as 'A Monneray Jack and oreggano toasted special foot-long with Swiss, no side and a tall double shot with a twist to go...' I had no idea what I was ordering but the staff were extremely friendly to the point of asking if I'd like it regular. A kind gesture but I had to move on, looking like a Scotsman carrying a caber and a bucket of coffee.

My brother Steve and my dad greeted me at Gatwick. I was in a dream-like state, still desperately trying to organise all the information and images, spanning five months, spinning in my mind like a spool of film and panicking, thinking I was being driven onto the wrong side of the road!

I feel lost without my bike. Due to the current worldwide economic state, there are less frequent cargo flights so I wont receive the bike until the 13th Oct. I don't think I'll really feel like I'm home until I'm riding it in no particular direction, with the sun on my back and a grin on my face and a view of the world you can only get by riding all the way around it.

I've seen some amazing man made things, awe inspiring natural scenery, met some wonderful friendly people, experiencing their lives and cultures, enriching mine. It makes no difference which country you live in, we are all the same. We all love our families, we all need food, water, shelter and friendship. Each new friend I've made represents a new magical world within me. I feel like I have buried treasure across the globe. It saddens me that countries are separated by politics, creating fear and making strangers of our neighbours.

"We are not enemies, but friends. We must not be enemies. Though passion may have strained, it must not break our bonds of affection. The mystic cords of memory will swell when again touched as surely they will be by the better angels of our nature." ~Abraham Lincoln

New York, New York!

I planned to visit the Wright-Patterson air force base, the largest air museum in the world near Dayton Ohio, where the Wright brothers first flew. But it was getting late so I stopped in Cambridge, not far from Norwich, and found a small Budget Inn at $35 a night, cost covered by the local police force! So many English town names over here! The bath was small, the water tepid and the decor circa 1960, but it was luxurious. I'd been averaging 350 mile days and covered 850 in the last two. It was one of the best cramped baths and softest of beds. Pitching the tent had become a little tedious lately!

One thing is certain in America, the coffee is always good and available everywhere, except for Budget Inns...
Early morning at a nearby gas station, a homeless guy admired my bike and my coffee. I couldn't offer him a lift to Kansas even if I wasn't carrying luggage, I was heading East. Everyone I meet in the US is so friendly I felt I had to return the favour and gave him my $17 change. A foreigner with a nice motorcycle often gives the impression of money, but it's everything I own. I don't have a house or a job either but I'm still better off than a lot of people. He hadn't eaten for two days.
It's been difficult to judge the time it takes to cover distances here, but I always plan to get ahead rather than fall behind, arriving in Potomac, Maryland a day early.

The ride across West Virginia into Maryland was beautiful, so many trees and noticeably fresher air over the mountains. My cousin Gillian was away for the weekend at her 50th school reunion, but her husband Alan (great name!) was the perfect host. I'd ridden 5000 miles since I last saw him in Seattle. Potomac is only a few miles from Washington DC but a world apart. A small village surrounded by trees and huge houses with two acres upwards. I relaxed outside watching his three horses, five deer and a fox wandering across the vast back yard!
Next day was a quiet Sunday in Washington DC, chauffeured by Alan who, having worked as a lawyer on Capitol Hill, knew everything about the city. There are no tall buildings as no building may be more than 20ft higher than the width of the street in front of it. Everywhere is spotlessly clean and many open spaces mean there are no crowds either. No neon signs or huge adverts for Coke or McDonalds. This is my kind of city! I had an obligatory pose for a photo outside the Whitehouse, not realising that the view we often see is actually the back of it, the front not quite so appealing.
Gillian arrived home late Sunday, so I didn't get to meet her until Monday afternoon when she returned from work. I'm lucky to have such a great family.
It was so nice to relax and have a couple of days off the bike, busying myself helping Alan scrape the loose paint from his shed and going for walks with the dog. I even got to see a Manchester United game in between all the political debates.

If it wasn't for the worsening oil leak, I had enough money left to stay in America another two or three weeks, but I need something to live on at home until I find a job, and I owe my dad for clearing my credit card bill for me!
So my flight was 9.40 PM Wednesday, and I'd planned to arrive in New York a day early to see the sights. I wasn't too keen on riding the bike across a busy city and decided to stay in Potomac another day, hoping to plan a proper visit to New York when I return someday.

I had a choice between Route 1 into Philadelphia, crossing several interesting towns, or Interstate 95, via the infamous New Jersey Turnpike. I had about 6 hours to cover 250 miles. Not knowing how long it would take on Route 1, chose the Interstate to make sure I had time to drop the bike at Valley Stream, Long Island. I smiled to myself when I saw a sign for New York. After 5 months of travelling I was actually going to make it! The Turnpike was reasonably quiet compared to the morning rush hour around DC, and I made it to Staten Island in good time. I was annoyed at being charged the same as cars across all the tolls, varying between $2 and $8, but they charge by the axle and I couldn't argue. Even if I could wheelie that far I still have two axles! A total of $24 in tolls, got me across Staten and Coney Island, where I could see the Statue of Liberty and the Empire State Building in the distance. I was running lower on fuel than I planned, due to the riding the high speed Interstate all day. I asked a guy how many miles left to JFK. He said 10 minutes. I needed to know exactly how many miles to work out the fuel because the bike needed to be almost empty for the flight home. I explained I needed to know the exact mileage. He told me it wouldn't be any more than 10 minutes. None the wiser I chose to put another gallon in the tank. The small busy streets around Valley Stream were a nightmare, especially as I arrived from a different junction than planned due to the fuel stop. As soon as I recognised a street name and got my bearings, I found the Berklay Building where I'd leave the bike. I disconnected the battery, sorted the luggage and left it in the capable hands of Greg. http://www.shipmybike.com/
The cost of flying the bike was around 20% higher than shipping, $1945 inc. customs and fuel surcharges etc. but only 1-2 weeks, opposed to 6-8 weeks in a container ship. I'd thought seriously about selling the bike to save money but if I don't get it home I'll feel like the trip wont be completed.
One of the guys offered a lift to JFK in a huge International truck. I had over 6 hours until my flight but I would be glad of the rest. Huge signs on the approach to the airport tell you which terminal the airlines fly from, in my case Aer Lingus, terminal 4. If you forget that, it's also colour coded, so we followed the blue lane to the blue terminal. Each terminal is like a small town with plenty to keep me occupied. A small chubby guy in a flat cap and over sized sunglasses was ordering a hot coffee. Could he have it hot? It must be hot, can't have it too hot. He kept repeating over and over until he got his coffee. He overheard me asking for a cappuccino.
"You're Russian, right?"
"No, English actually."
"But you have Russian relatives, right?"
"No, English."
"You must have grandparents who are Russian?"
"No, all English, from England, that's why I'm speaking with an English accent, I'm not Russian!"
"But you have such big hands!"
"Well, thanks for noticing but I don't think they're out or proportion..."
"Can you do this?" he asked, touching both earlobes with one hand.
"Er, no, not than I've ever..."
"I can! I'm an exception!"
"You certainly are! I believe my coffee is ready, nice to meet you." I shook his huge fat hand.
"Gardam! That's some mitt you have there! Have a nice flight!" He slapped me on the shoulder with his side of beef sized hand.
"Er thanks, I will!"

Wow, you're a real trooper! Er, thanks, so are you!

I've tried to avoid American fast food and eat healthy as much as possible, very important on a long trip. I was warned to avoid truck stops but I was interested to see as much American culture as possible. I think there were a few 'cultures' growing in the corner of the restaurant and I was offered a booth or a table. I chose the booth because the mountainous truck drivers wouldn't fit in them. I sat fascinated buy several guys returning frequently with as much food as they could carry from the 'all you can eat' shrimp bar. I guessed it may be called 'all you can eat' because that's all there is on offer. I've seen some rotund gentlemen on my travels but when the light was blocked by a drifting marquee, that on closer inspection appeared to be a T-shirt with a 'Michelin man' inside, I thought it was about time this guy was taught the difference between 'want' and 'need.'
I managed to find a single quart of engine oil amongst all the essential accessories a truck driver needs, like a 'Colonel Bogey' horn, an LED Stars and Stripes, so everyone knows where you're from and a spare wheel arch covered in blue lights which I assume often gets used as a shoe horn to enter the vehicle. The bike had barely used any oil on the whole trip until the clutch arm leak, which is steadily getting worse. At this rate I should make it to New York but without knowing the exact cause of the problem, it's a bit of a worry.

Ohio looked quite interesting after the vast plains of Wyoming, Nebraska and Iowa. Indiana was very welcoming and friendly, and Ohio was no exception. Randy, a State Trooper from 'twenty minutes East' from this rest stop, offered to show me around the local station. I had some strange looks from passing motorists, not unusual for me but fraternising with police officer must be a rare sight. Especially when everyone wanted to join in for the photos.
"Alan Kelly, wow, you're a celebrity! I've got a sister in Manchester England. I'll have to remember your name for when you're on the TV! Good luck Alec!"

Riding close behind a police cruiser at 70mph, with a huge tailback of impatient drivers along the interstate for twenty minutes was a surreal experience, but I was enjoying every minute! Usually the motorcycle is in front of the police car!
Randy was a biker himself, racing a Suzuki gsx600 for fun, and a Honda Fireblade for the road. If I was in Ohio longer, he would take me to the track for a free day racing. Very tempting but I have to keep moving East. I met all the guys, including Lisa the secretary who was sure she saw me in Oregon along the coast. After an in-depth tour of the station, even the garage where the Dodge V8 engine proudly sat after generating the power during the recent storms, essential to recharge the rows of 'Tazers,' I was given an information pack usually given to schools, in case I ever have kids of my own. I hoped to meet someone in America but I don't think women are attracted to bikers, especially one that looks like he's been living rough for five months...
Randy asked if I'd eaten that day. It was 3.30pm and a restaurant was across the street. He stuffed some cash into my hand. It was $40! I couldn't accept, but he insisted saying he made good money as an officer. No-one will believe a motorcyclist chased a policeman along the highway and was given money from him at the station!
A great guy, indeed, you might say he's a super trooper. There, I said it.

Sometimes I wonder how I arrive in such a State

The nights are drawing in and getting cold. Most of the State parks close at the end of September. At Glendo State park, Wyoming I had three sites to choose from and I was the only person there! Wyoming and Nebraska seemed larger then I expected, maybe due to the fact I'm feeling very tired and generally run down. After the excitement of Yellowstone and all the other amazing places, now I have to just keep riding and cover the miles to make it to New York. It's the first time I've actually needed to be somewhere for a long time. Many tempting motels invite me to sample their spas and luxurious pampering but luckily for me, there are many campsites along the Interstate highways. The KOA campsites in particular have everything a weary traveller needs, and at $17, perfect for my meagre budget.
Trevor and Elenor invited me over to their Behemoth RV for a couple of beers. They've been on the road for nine years, covering 49 States except North Dakota so far. Part of the 'Q-tip' brigade as they call it. Retired Americans often travel this time of year, after the summer rush and now the kids are back in school.
Strangely for me, I'm revered as an accomplished world wide traveller to most people I meet here, but to me I'm still inexperienced on my first trip!

I stopped for the obligatory free map at the first rest stop in Indiana, and was greeted by a tall man who asked me If I was 'Big Al' from England. He'd been admiring my bike, but as is often the case with Americans, they ask so many questions before I answer the first one, I don't really get a chance to explain myself. Another guy and his wife came over to me as I walked back to the bike.
'Are you Big Al? Hi, I'd like to officially welcome you to America!'
In the West, I was warned that I wouldn't find so much hospitality and friendly people as I travelled East. Most countries are wary of their neighbours, and America being so large, tends to be wary of different States. But from experience, if anything, they are just as friendly. Maybe everyone from the Mid-West onwards are judged by New York's reputation. My advice is, get to know people before making any judgement, a stranger is a potential friend you haven't met yet.

The Mississippi certainly is a 'Mighty' river, but not too inviting given it's dark brown appearance. As I walked around a small town thinking it was extremely busy and very well lit for daylight hours, I discovered I was actually inside a shop called Wal-Mart. I found it very difficult to shop for anything geared towards a single guy on a bike, mostly being offered multi pack items by the pound, quart or gallon. This explains why so many Americans drive huge trucks, they need them for the weekly groceries....

Historic Centerville, Indiana

After Yellowstone I noticed oil splattered above the right footpeg. It's leaking from a loose clutch arm. And I was led to believe Triumph never leak oil! There's no damage or any reason I can see, it's just worked loose somehow. Not something I can fix on the road, even if I knew what the problem was, I haven't got the tools, gaskets or the money! Besides, the bike is still under warranty, so when I get home, Triumph will have to fix it! I check the oil level everyday and it doesn't seem to be getting worse, but I have no choice but to keep going. I decided to stay on Interstate 80, so if the worst happens, someone will be around to help me.
Even this plan had to change because of the aftermath of Hurricane Ike, the Interstate was closed due to flooding. I wanted to avoid Chicago anyway so a diversion South East to Interstate 70, wasn't too much of a problem. In fact, I've made such good progress riding 3-400 mile days, I've now got time to visit my Dad's cousin Gillian in Potomac near Washington DC. I hope to arrive there on Sunday.
Apart from the oil leak the bike has been faultless, it's a shame I have to keep one eye on it all the time, it spoils the journey, but as long as I keep the oil topped up it should be ok. I have about 1000 miles left to New York so it will be a great shame if the bike doesn't make it after riding over 18000 so far! My body is trying to tell me it's had enough. Everything aches, especially my back after straining to move such a heavy laden machine. At least it's a different part of my back this time! Got to keep going, at least the weather should be ok for the next few days, so I can grit my teeth and pray the bike doesn't break!

Bryce Canyon, Four Corners, Getting tyred, Yellowstone.

Bryce canyon was simply beautiful. I spent a day there, even walking around some of the steep pathways enabling me to fully enjoy my personal lack of fitness. In Sunset point campsite I was greeted by the guy who runs the site, who told me of two Germans who stayed there four days ago. They matched the description of Hans and Volka, who I met in Russia, that would've been an amazing coincidence!
A quick stop at Four Corners Monument, then find some tyres!
You can't go far wrong with the roads around here, most are perfect for bikes, and the scenery is awe inspiring. I headed into Colorado with a view to get a rear tyre in Colorado Springs. I had to change my plan when over 10,000ft up the alpine passes, I noticed a bulge in the sidewall of my front tyre. At least riding a slower pace allowed me to see the view better. The Red mountains were amazing, and very cold at the summit! I stopped in Silverton for a break, then made my way to Montrose. I found a Bike dealership called Davis who specialised in Japanese bikes, who were only too pleased to supply me with two tyres. They were busy the next day, Saturday, which meant I would have to return Monday. This wasn't good news so I explained my trip and within the hour I had two Dunlops fitted with $98 off, sale price! The guys worked past closing time to help me out, again putting British dealers to shame!
The bike handles so much better without the Pirelli Scorpion front tyre from Russia. I still prefer the Michelin Anakees but the Dunlops are fine. I decided to wear them in by heading North to Yellowstone. My favorite place so far! A wolf ran into the road, and along the centreline towards me. After avoiding some buffalo earlier, and a moose I wasn't too surprised at avoiding animals that you would never see on the roads in the UK! Im met Jason Hart, a schoolteacher from Los Angeles, riding an old Hondo Goldwing 1100 painted in Army colours. We shared a campsite to save money and took a slow ride to see 'Old Faithful'. Walking around the Geysers was like a different planet! Jason was staying another night and I decided to get moving East in the morning, after he showed me how to toast marshmallows, and squash them between two sweet crackers with chocolate, known as S'mores.
I lay under the clear sky listening the the Moose whistling to themselves, I was not looking forward to heading East.
I wanted to stay in Yellowstone for a few days but as I've booked a flight home on the 23rd Sept, I need to do some serious mileage!

Public Library, Milford, Utah

Oregon is without a doubt a bikers paradise. After 1500 miles of enjoying myself, I headed South along the coast to Coos Bay. I met Steve and Nicole from Switzerland, riding two BMW 650s who are riding down to Argentina. They have a detailed map on their Sat-Nav and convinced me to ride the forest roads with them to Crater Lake. I was planning to ride to the Redwoods and San Fransisco but this journey has taught me that it's not where you go that matters as much as who you meet on the way.
Crater lake is simply stunning, as were the roads leading to it. From there Steve and Nicole are heading into the desert, and I'm going South. I'm avoiding Interstate roads as much as possible because I want to experience America, not just ride across it.
I found an amazing road down to Yosemite, probably the best so far, and it got even better as I left the valley passing El Capitan, and crossed the park to stay at Tuolumne meadows.
Too much beautiful scenery to take in, I will have to come here again one day.

Time and money are running out so it's time to head East. Crossing Nevada in a day was some task, 400 miles to Lehman caves across the loneliest roads I've ever seen. Passing a car every 10 - 20 miles! Not recommended if your head isn't as straight as the road! The heaviest rain I've ever seen followed me across the valleys between the mountains, but I just managed to keep ahead of it. One thing about riding these roads instead of the Interstates is you can choose what speed you like, there's no one else there! You can rest assured at no point did I break the speed limit....of the bike. Fuel consumption is less than economical at higher speeds and out here you have to be careful. Gas stations are few and far between.

Last nights campsite on the mountainside was one of the best yet. Next to streams and a stunning view across Nevada and Utah. Rain started to fall just as I stepped off the bike. A soul stirring storm entertained me for the evening, making my pile of firewood difficult to light, but my souvenir Yosemite newsletter made good kindling!
Mitch, a Yamaha 1200 rider recommended a few biking roads with good campsites. You can't beat local knowledge. This area has some of the best stargazing sites in the world. I had to agree after seeing some of the night skies recently. Shame it's cloudy tonight.
Today (Wednesday) I hope to see Bryce Canyon, and find a quiet campsite somewhere along the way. Yosemite was still busy, I had the last spot available, no doubt Bryce will be the same.
Colorado looks good, as do so many other places, who knows where the road will take me next?
The USA has too much to see but I'll try to see as much as possible. I must find a rear tyre soon but that's minor details....I'm enjoying myself too much.

Old Boyz in the Hood

Saturday proved to be one of the best bike rides I've ever had. Oregon is a beautiful state with perfect roads. The view from Hood mountain was as spectacular as the ride around it in Hood National Park.

Today was a different story. I wanted to write about another fantastic ride with my friend Stan Hellman but as we were returning we were plagued by a young guy trying to race us in his small Toyota. I slowed to let the idiot pass but after a mile we caught up to his steaming wreck, upside down in some brambles at the roadside. Stan called the emergencies while I ran to the car. I could hear the brambles cracking so I knew he was climbing out ok. I helped the blood soaked kid up and sat him down to calm him. Then I heard someone else in the car. The driver was trapped upside down by his seat belt. I couldn't reach him through the flattened door window. I tried to keep him calm but he was starting to panic. I had to get him out. I lay by the car and wriggled my shoulders inside. I could just reach the belt clip but his body weight was pulling down on it. I pushed as hard as I could splitting my thumb on the catch. He was free! He said he was ok to climb out. No bones seemed to be broken but he had a bad gash to the head. A car arrived with a man and wife who helped keep him calm until the ambulance arrived within 5 minutes. The medic said he had bad internal injuries and was dying. I left them to do their job. After Stan and I made statements we left cautiously. Stan was angry and I was upset at not being able to do anything to make sure he lives. I know he's in the best hands and I hope he survives.

Life is too precious to waste. Every day is a gift, that's why they call today the present day.

The lights are out, and he's off!

I spent an extra day in Seattle trying to fix my bike. Triumph at Tacoma would gladly look at the bike for me but didn't have a much needed clutch cable. Luckily, out of all the Triumph dealers here, Cascade Moto Classics in Beaverton Oregon had one in stock. As it was nearly 200 miles away I thought it best to give the bike a good check over. After much fettling, I stumbled across the cure. I'm not sure exactly what I did but the engine light stayed out! Obviously a bad connection somewhere.

I could relax for a change and plan an early start to Beaverton. I tried to phone a few campsites to check availability, but all were too busy to even reply to my messages. Thats Labor day weekend for you. Everyone is driving their 'land yachts' towing a spare car, and slowing my pace. I wish they could see the benefits of riding a motorcycle without every single creature comfort known to man. Why do you need to take your house with you? I braved the mobile buildings heading South for nearly 200 miles and amazed myself by finding the Triumph dealer at my first attempt.

A clutch cable for $40 and while I was there, asked about some spark plugs. Rick the mechanic was snowed under but if I helped him would do it right away! I doubt my local Triumph dealer would do that for me...

I took the opportunity to fit the cable and a K&N air filter that had survived the journey with me. Two hours and another $100 and I was ready to go. The bike is running perfectly. I thanked the staff for helping me at such short notice, they were amazing people and hanging out at their dealership was like being home from home. I've been told it's the best Triumph dealer in the USA and I can believe it. Thanks again guys!

www.cascademoto.com

I planned to ride to Silver Falls campsite hoping that somewhere around that area I could find a spot in one of the many sites in that region. Then something unusual happened. I had a phone call waiting in the Cascade Moto Classics office. I remembered I'd posted a message on the Triumph RAT site explaining where I'd be in Oregon that day. Stan Hellman greeted me on the phone and offered to show me some great biking roads over the weekend if I wished to stay at his place. How could I refuse such generosity?

I had time to check out the Black Bear diner before Stan arrived on a silver Tiger 955, looking considerably cleaner than my road weary machine.

That evening I was whisked around Portland in Stan's Mazda MX5, designed for people under 6ft, and sampling the locally brewed beer.
Portland is a beautiful city, full of life and I would've missed it all if it wasn't for Stan. That's what's so great about traveling, where you go isn't as important as who you meet. The people make the places what they are, so you experience it rather than just seeing it.

Tomorrow, Saturday, I've been promised to ride biking roads unlike anything I've ever seen. I can't wait.

The lights are on and I'm far from home.

I'm going to miss Port Townsend, especially the sourdough pizzas! Judging distances here takes some getting used to, everywhere is along way away but compared to Russia, not so far! It's good to be back on the road, even if it was only back to Seattle, but I promised to visit my cousin Alycia and her family. She'd booked a hotel for me which I stumbled upon accidentally, as the name had changed. There's too much information along the roads here, it's almost impossible not to look at all the neon signs, adverts and info along the way, as well as having to follow the road signs and scribbled directions on my tank bag in busy traffic. Totally different to riding in Russia.
Only a short run to Ballard to Alycia's house in a very nice area. We sat eating a traditional American dish, pizza. She has an amazing family and I'm glad to be related to such nice people.
Unfortunately my bike wasn't happy. The engine management light (or money light, mechanics tanning booth light etc.) refused to go out. It seems to run ok so I think it's a minor problem but I have to go to a Triumph dealer to be certain before crossing the US. There's one South of here in Tacoma and another one near Portland, Oregon so if it's nothing major, I can continue. The only problem I've had with the engine so far was occasionally running on 2 cylinders instead of 3. I attributed that to the poor petrol in Russia but I did it again twice here as well. Maybe a fuel injector problem caused by all the bad fuel, which will clear eventually or maybe that's why the engine light is on. It's a common problem with Triumphs to have this light stay on and usually nothing serious. I haven't touched any electrical components, so I know it's nothing I've caused which makes it harder to locate a problem.
I haven't budgeted for expensive repairs but if the worst happens I can sell the bike to get home. Not a choice I want to make, it's all I own.
The bike got me this far so I'm sure it can manage a few thousand miles more...

Captain Kelly

David took me to the customs office on Friday to fill the necessary form and get the release form stamped. Then on to Mercers new warehouse to collect the bike. Everyone I speak to mentions Rodrigo, the Brazilian I met in Vladivostok who is in a hurry to get to New York. He had been constantly pestering everyone to get his bike quickly as if it was their duty to obey him. He was long gone with his bike when I arrived and so had Geoff, who I was hoping to meet. I'm glad he got his bike and I hope it started ok, it still has Russian petrol in it!
I was lucky because David had a trailer for my bike. This meant no $50 disposal fee for the crate and I could check the bike over at his house before riding it.
On the way back we stopped at Costco, the largest shopping warehouse I've ever seen! Everything you want as long as it's bulk size!

The bank decided to cheer me up by stopping my card again. Their explanation was that there is a big problem at the moment with ATM card fraud in the US. That maybe so but as I'm here in the US I'm going to need money. Again they assured me all will be fine, unless I decide to go to Canada, where I'd be better off having cash. But every time I make a large withdrawal my card gets stopped again. Also, not being a US resident with a zip code, my credit card is basically useless in most places, as their computer systems wont accept foreign cards. Frustrating to say the least!

Early Saturday we unpacked the bike. The crate was not a good one so will be firewood for David. It's a strange sight opening a crate and seeing your bike inside but I'm glad it made it here ok. No time to check it over properly because after all the rain recently, today finally is perfect sailing weather!
The outboard motor kept flooding with fuel so David went to get some more spark plugs, leaving me on the boat with his friend Steve. Before we got going, all the safety aspects were double checked, and once safely away from the ferries, I was shown how to steer, keeping the wind in the sails. Not easy at first but I soon got the feel for it. I've never been on a sailboat before and I can see why so many people do it. It's great fun, but I prefer my bike!

I don't hate ATMs anymore, I hate the bank!

Cargozone, the Korean container company have been less than helpful. The ship had arrived late Friday night on the 15th. Luckily David knows how things work here and soon had all the information I needed via Hanjin shipping and Mercer distributors. All I needed was a bill for the amount owed to Cargozone for them to release the bike after customs had finished their checks. These checks took from Monday until Wednesday, then the container was moved to Mercer's warehouse in Fife where I can collect the bike on Thursday or Friday. One of these checks involved the USDA (Dept. of Agriculture) having to break open my crate to see what was inside. They are used to dealing with 'aloominum' crates and my crate was an insufficient wooden one made in Korea.
All I have to do is fill out a customs form in Seattle, pay Cargozone and collect the bike. Unfortunately Cargozone haven't yet sent me the bill. They assured me it would be no more than $100 but when they finally emailed me today, Thursday, it was $355 for handling and the USDA test. For some reason they wont accept a card payment which means I'll have to arrange a money order from the post office.
I withdrew $200 so I had enough cash in total to pay Cargozone, then decided to get some more to cover any more hidden costs from Mercer warehouse, but my visa didn't work.

I was well within my daily limit from an ATM but had to use all my mobile phone credit calling the UK 'helpline' because they don't have a freephone number like most places here in the USA do. They stopped my card for the same reason they stopped it in Russia. I was making large withdrawals. I again explained that not everyone accepts a card payment. All was restored and I had to wait 10 minutes before using it again. I waited longer but it still didn't work. An hour later still no luck. At least I had enough for the money order so went back with David to scan it and email it to Cargozone so they could sign the release form for the bike. I tried to add credit to my phone on my email account but unfortunately the system doesn't accept foreign issued cards without a USA postal code.
Once we returned to the post office to send the money order, a visit to Safeway to buy a phonecard and most importantly, locally brewed cold beer.
Cargozone meanwhile, have signed the release form thanking me for my business. I'm glad they appreciate my custom because it's never going to happen again. Tomorrow we head into Seattle to complete the custom form and collect the bike from Mercer's.
I really have missed my bike!

Planes and boats and....a bus

Needless to say I didn't require an ongoing flight when I entered the USA, just my fingerprints and a photo. Different countries may have different rules but is it too hard for them to communicate? Once I found my baggage I phoned David Janos, an amazing guy I met in Dubrovnik. He was travelling Europe using public transport and hiking around any mountain range that was in the way. That's the 'proper' way to travel apparently.
I followed his instructions and got the bus downtown, then walked a short way to the ferry terminal. A huge ferry wafted me across to Bainbridge Island, giving me beautiful views of Seattle and the surrounding bay. David arrived to drive me to Port Townsend via a scenic route. Such an amazing place, but I promised not to tell anyone because the locals want to keep it that way!

David designed and built his own house, and soon showed me to my accommodation. A yacht in his garden! He is also a boat builder, (and a pilot!) and before I knew it, I was set up with a computer and WI FI in the boat. He's also a computer expert....

No sooner had I phoned the airline to refund my ticket, incredibly simple and fast, I had a confirmation email in less than a minute. Customer service in the USA really is second to none.
The cool evening was spent with a cold beer on David's sailboat. If the weather is ok this week, we can go sailing! Life really is rough here but I think I could get used to it.
I love America!

Seoul, Tokyo and onwards....?

I had fun in Incheon airport due to the information on the internet being incorrect. There's always someone to ask and I was soon shuffling along queues and being herded into the departure lounge like human cattle. This is the first time I've been on a plane in 20 years! I was hoping the pilots had more training than the less than smooth local taxi and bus drivers.
I didn't expect much legroom so I wasn't disappointed when I didn't get any. Sitting behind the toilet wall and next to the galley was probably the worst seat on the plane but I was excited at moving on to another country.
Flying above the heavy rain over Seoul was a welcome change and by the time I'd identified most of the food precariously sliding around on my sloping table (my knees were too high...) I was looking down on the beautiful Japanese coastline. The weather was perfect and I guessed the huge volcano above the clouds must be mount Fuji, an awesome sight.

I had more fun at the check in desk at Tokyo airport. Apparently all Japanese tourists to the USA need an ongoing flight booked before entry otherwise they will be deported back to Japan. I said I'm British and this rule doesn't apply to me. They were adamant that this applied to everyone and told me to wait for a customs officer. Naturally I was less than impressed but the custom officer would not let me board the plane unless an onward ticket was purchased. I was lead across the airport to a United Airline desk where they assured me the ticket was fully refundable. It's all about numbers and I'm sure someone is making a profit from all these pre-booked tickets. It was getting close to boarding time and I was now at the back of the queue. Just to make me laugh even more I was chosen for a new type of search involving my bag and myself being searched and weighed so the airline can gauge an average weight of passengers. At least I was 18kg lighter! I soon relaxed into a large 'economy plus' reclining seat with almost enough legroom and a guy with a loud cough to keep me company for the next 9 hrs...

To begin any journey you must take the first step.

Mike and Jo flew home yesterday after travelling for 12 months on their BMW they nicknamed 'The Elephant.' You can see photos of their amazing journey at http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/tstories/hannan/
I shall miss them and hope to see them in Australia one day.
Last night I had a meal with Wendy choi, the lady who arranged our bike shipments for us. She also wants to travel and asked me about Turkey as she heard it was a dangerous country. Istanbul excluded as I never went there, the rest of the country is very friendly. Any country you choose someone will tell you it's dangerous but usually they are not speaking from experience. Wendy is doubtful about her travelling abilities and feels 'safe' in her job, not knowing if she will ever have the courage to go. I felt the same before I left. Once a plan was laid out and more information gathered, the ball started to roll and here I am in Korea! You never know what tomorrow may bring, travelling or not. This is the hardest thing I've ever done but also the most rewarding because of it. I doubt I could be much further away from my 'comfort zone' and like I've said before, living a rich life has nothing to do with money or possessions, it's all about experiences.
A small boy in a shopping centre today got separated from his mother because he was too scared to step onto the escalator. I held out my hand and he took it, taking the first step with me and he was fine. Sometimes you just need a helping hand to take the first step.

Tomorrow I move back into the Namsan Guesthouse for my last night in Korea. It's a case of shuffling from one place to another trying to find a room as everywhere is fully booked.
Friday is the 60th anniversary of Liberation day and is a national holiday. I hope the bus to the airport is still running! I've enjoyed Korea very much but I'm looking forward to America. Naturally I'm nervous at the prospect of going alone but given the size of my feet I can take the first three steps in one go!

Trim in more ways than one

I weighed myself today. I knew I'd lost some weight on my travels, but I was shocked. The combined weight of my backpack and bag is 18kg. Exactly the amount I've lost! When I left I was 120kg, now I'm a trim 102kg. Unbelievable! Maybe I should market the motorcycle travellers diet plan.
I finally found somewhere to get a haircut. Last night I wandered into the expensive Pacific Hotel to use their business centre to print my flight details. They were unaware I wasn't a guest and obliged. Given my attire, I'm surprised they let me enter in the first place. They have an in-house barber shop which I used the next day. Obviously I had to leave my two hairstylists at home through lack of room on the bike! When I wore a younger mans clothes, I would've been happy to use a trendy hair salon, but the styles they offer only seem to suit a full head of hair so I was glad to find a 'proper' gentleman's hairdresser.

I carefully lined up my dirty white trainers with the row of polished shoes outside of the spa entrance and was led to the barber. The view of the busy changing rooms in the mirror was a little disconcerting! I can't remember how long it's been since I had a cut-throat razor on my neck but he did an excellent job.

''Would Sir like it charged to your room?"
"Actually I prefer to pay cash thankyou!"
My trainers had been moved out of sight into a corner....

Making a meal out of a menu

I've been learning my way around Seoul. It's a busy city and something interesting around every corner. It's a heatwave here, temperatures averaging in the mid 30s and very humid. Luckily everywhere is air conditioned, even the underground markets. Except for my place, the Green Guesthouse. The lady owner has specific rules that cater for the undiscerning landlady not the guest. Air conditioning only at night, set at 30C, so hardly worth using. Sleep on top of the bed, not on the bedsheets. Internet access for two hours only from 8 a.m. to 10 a.m. and 8 p.m. to 10 p.m. But only for 20mins at a time and only for email!

It's a clean house and she means well but she needs a few lessons in customer service if she wants a successful business. The Guy at the Namsan Guest house warned me she has strange rules and also told me I could stay there if I preferred as there was a cancellation last night. Great, I would prefer very much but unfortunately I had to pay up front at the Green Guest house. I wasn't happy about that but at the time there was nowhere else to stay.

I have one night back at Namsan on Thurs 14th before flying to Seattle friday morning.
2.5 hours to Tokyo, a 3 hour connection and 8.5 hours to Seattle where I arrive 9.30 a.m. 2 hours before I left Seoul!

In Dubrovnik an American guy called David pitched his tent next to mine. He told me to contact him when I get to the States. I emailed him this week and he has kindly offered to let me camp in his yard at Port Townsend, 2.5 hours North of Seattle. It's such a relief to have somewhere to stay after unsuccessfully searching for a cheap hostel or motel. Everywhere is booked up, probably with British holidaymakers!
All I have to do now is plan a cheap route to New York!

It's quite a nice change to have a few days to relax, see the sights, and having friends here to spend evenings with. One restaurant in particular, misled us with the price. Mike specifically asked the owner how many people a meal served, and was told 3. The price was reasonable so we had a nice barbecued steak. The owner demanded 3 times the price on the menu! We argued that he was wrong to advertise a meal at a price than tell us it's different. The police were called, not wanting to get involved and after Mike spoke to someone on the phone in English, who understood how the problem arose, we agreed to pay with what we had, about two-thirds of the money. An entertaining evening!

Maybe it is a small world after all

It's very difficult finding anywhere cheap to stay at this time of year, but in Seoul we managed to book four days in the Namsan Guest house. Geoff will be leaving for a tour around Asia after two nights and I will be staying in Korea. Geoff almost convinced me to go to Hong Kong, even finding out flights etc. for me but to be honest, as a first time traveller, I really don't have the confidence to go there alone. If I survive the rest of this trip, then I think I will have the experience and confidence to travel further. Australia has always been somewhere I've wanted to go, so if I'm lucky enough to have an opportunity, I will see Hong Kong then.

Talking of Australia, I bumped into Mike and Jo, the Australian couple we'd met in Vladivostok. In a city the size of Seoul, this was an amazing coincidence. They had ridden around the coast, then shipped their BMW 1150 GS home, and in the meantime like me, were killing time here. They fly home Tuesday the 12th so that gives us plenty of time to have some beers first!

Geoff left early on Thursday the 7th. I was sad to see him leave but he was looking forward to travelling around Asia. I wish him well. He is braver than me and I look forward to hearing his adventures!

I hate ATMs....

In Zarubino we met a Korean girl called Heaven, who told us not to use the high speed trains in Korea as they are cramped and expensive. The buses however, are cheap and excellent. So we took her advice and boarded a 'Limo' bus to Seoul. Reclining seats and air conditioning are a far cry from buses in England.
Neither of us had planned to visit Korea, so didn't know what to expect. The mountains and lush green valleys made for the most picturesque bus journey I've ever had. Not that I've had many...
Crowds of people camped by large fast flowing rocky rivers, and even some heavy showers didn't dampen their enthusiasm. After about a three hour journey, we hunted for a guide map at the bus terminal. No luck anywhere. An expensive hotel directed us to the local tourist hotel, which at this time, rapidly turning in to apartments. The Dong Seoul hotel was the only choice and reasonable, so we booked three nights, planning to stay in the Mapo-Gu area afterwards, near to where Wendy Choi's ferry office is. We could pay her for shipping the bikes to Seattle for us. She had taken care of everything from arranging the trucks, crating, and was the only person who offered us LCL (less than container load) whereas the Russians expected us to pay for a 20ft container.
Not all plans work out, we couldn't find a motel anywhere with a twin room in the Mapo-Gu area, all had double beds. I'm sure I'd be the luckiest guy alive if that did it for me but definitely not my idea of fun! So we went back to Dong Seoul hotel again. At least it has free use of their two computers so I can catch up on my blog while Geoff makes use of the free Wi FI.

Both of us unsuccessfully tried several ATMs, so I asked in a bank if I could use my card to withdraw cash. They said yes and changed their cashpoint to English for me but still no luck. They recommended a cashpoint underneath a huge electronics shopping plaza called Techno Mart. I got caught up in a noisy protest march surrounded my dozens of riot police. I had no idea what the protest was for, and they had no idea I was in a hurry to resolve my stressful predicament.
I tried one and no luck. I asked in the bank there and nobody could give me an answer. Eventually a security guard came out and directed me to a global cashpoint. Success! Foreign cards wont work in Korean ATMs. Now they tell me....
Ever since my card was stopped in the middle of Russia, I've been a tad apprehensive every time I have to use one.

The Seoul metro looks confusing but actually is very simple and very cheap. All the stations are numbered, so you only have to remember a number not a place name. About 50 pence a trip on a fast, modern air conditioned train. Much wider Trains and nicer than the old London underground! We had a wander around the Jongmyo Royal Ancestral Shrine, almost deafened by thousands of cicada beetles in the trees. They are everywhere in Korea but here must be their favorite spot, bless their little Seouls....

Dong Chun ferry to Sok Cho South Korea.

Not much sleep last night. The noise vibrations of the ferry kept me awake, along with the worry of knowing I would ride alone across America after Geoff said he was keen to get to his brother in San Francisco. I miss my brothers also and no doubt I would do the same thing. I guessed at some point that we would ride separately on this trip so we can have our own adventures and sometimes in at the deep end is the quickest way to learn the ways of the world, all I need to do is regain my confidence and I'll be fine. After Russia maybe I have enough experience now, it's just a big step into the unknown for me. But then the whole trip has been and despite a few hiccups, everything always works out in the end.

I've heard many people say you must learn the difference between a tourist and a traveller, and I certainly have!

A beautiful day greets us in Sok Cho, and after the huge interest in my motorcycle jacket safety pad inserts by custom officers, we are allowed to unload the bikes into a warehouse. Dan phones Wendy Choi from the Dong Chun ferry office and within the hour our bikes are ridden onto pallets and loaded onto two small trucks. Dan was flying from Incheon airport and we were shipping ours out from Busan. A sad sight indeed, watching your pride and joy being driven away into the hands of others.

A German guy we saw leaving Zarubino on the ferry we missed, was still in customs. Germany never signed the 1949 international driving treaty so he had to return to Russia having no permission to drive in Korea. And we thought our planning was bad....

None of our mobile phones work on Korea as they use CDMA (Code Division Multiple Access) and not our GSM (Global System for Mobile) this was a surprise for us!

So if you want to contact me or Geoff please do so on the poocirculation@hotmail.co.uk email address, or you're welcome to leave messages on my blog!
Sok Cho is a beautiful city, especially if you like seafood! Dozens of restaurants with huge fish tanks along the streets, full of fish too lively for me! Some of them looked like we'd have to fight to see which one of us will be eaten!
A complete stranger sat at a table next to us outside a chicken restaurant in the stunningly lit streets. He offered us some of his honey chicken and a drink of his Soju, not quite as strong as some of the vodka we were accustomed to, but very nice.
I think I'm going to enjoy Korea!

Dosvidanya Russia!

Alexander the 'Architect' arrived at 7a.m. Friday 25th to see us onto the ferry. Unfortunately Rodrigo arrived to see if his bike was loaded onto a truck and couldn't find the keys. I had to lock up and he was making us late. I gave the key to the 'Architect' and we had to leave on our own. Carving through the morning traffic was no fun but we made the ferry with 5 minutes to spare. We were first on followed by two huge custom cruiser bikes ridden by two local guys on their way to meet some American friends at Zarubino. We were welcome to follow them to the ferry as we didn't have a map for that road! The 'Architect' appeared on the ferry saying he wanted to see us off safely! Top bloke! He told us Rodrigo's keys were hanging on the bike mirror!

Everything was working out fine, the road was one of the best from Slavyanka to Zarubino and only about 30km not 60km like we'd been told. Beautiful scenery, mountains and tree lined valleys with rocky rivers and we found a very good cheap hotel!

On Saturday 26th I saw Hans and Volker appear on their BMWs. They had been held up by a strange misfortune. After riding all the way across Russia and the Amur highway, they were caught in a storm near Vladivostok and a tree fell onto Hans knocking him out. He was taken to hospital and was ok! His bike was fixed by local bikers and he knew how lucky he was! He showed me part of the tree embedded in his helmet!
We had to pay 200 rubles to allow entry to the docks at 1 .p.m. Then $100 customs tax then 460 rubles for the boarding pass. We already had a passenger ticket $220bought at the Dong Chun ferry office in Vladivostok but the bike had to be paid for upon arrival in Korea, another $300.
The custom lady approached us in the waiting lounge saying "Problem."
Although our visa's were valid for 90 days the bike declaration given us in Russian was only valid for two weeks! We were only doing what we were told to do in Sochi and couldn't understand why they only gave us two weeks for the bikes. We couldn't leave on this ferry and would have to return on Monday to pay a fine. We pleaded to find a resolution and were told to wait. The ferry was delayed for 4hrs so we had a chance. Naturally Rodrigo was first in line on his bike before the ferry had finished docking and was told to return.
We waited. Every half hour we checked with the customs office and the boarding office but no news. Hans and Volker bid us farewell and boarded the boat. we were more annoyed at having to leave them than miss a ferry, but on the plus side we wouldn't be with the Brazilian.
We waited. Still no news. 9.30 p.m. and the ferry doors closed. I didn't give up, pestering everyone for an answer. We were told to wait as things may change. 9.45 p.m. we had a definite answer, NYET!
It was no use as we watched the ferry leave without us. It was nearly dark so we hurried back to the hotel hoping we could get a room. Riding around the small bay was saw the ferry heading out to sea. Not a nice sight!
Two more days in Russia and the prospect of a fine and more paperwork on Monday.

Monday saw Dan from Romania arriving nursing a bad elbow. He was involved in an 'accident' after a man at the side of the road waved to him and he thought there was a problem with the road and jumped from his bike falling badly. His KTM 400 ex-army bike was ok but suffered radiator damage bouncing on the back of a lorry getting a lift into Vladivostok!
Three guys took three hours to process all the documents Monday afternoon, after we had to pay another 200 rubles to enter the docks again....
A fine of 1500 rubles and an explanation from the English speaking lady, Natasha, from the ticket office. We signed to say we broke customs law. Then again to say why we broke it (ignorance) then again to say there was no interpreter at Sochi. Then again to say this was all verbal with no recording equipment or cameras, It went on and on and I felt like a soap 'star' at a book signing. At least we knew we were on this ferry! The bikes had an entire car deck all to themselves and we marvelled at the beautiful coastline of Zarubino. After loading the bikes we had to return for customs. Then another problem. Natasha came to us saying there was a mistake on our bill of lading. GBR in Russia means Germany and it had to be changed to GRB! Does all this Russian paperwork ever end? Well, yes, after we walked through customs, unhindered by any recount of all our 'necessary' hotel registrations, Russia was behind us.
It's such a shame that the old Soviet rules still apply in so many places. It's as if they are too afraid to move on, or maybe set in their ways. All they need to do is make it easier for travellers and the whole world will see what wonderful people they are.

We had economy tickets so we slept on the floor with thin mattresses but as there wasn't many passengers, piled them three high!
Next stop Sok Cho, South Korea!

Go Vostok!

Rodriguez, the Brazilian arrived with his broken Yamaha 250 on the back of a Vlad Moto truck. He was riding with a friend from Portugal to New York but had bike problems. We later discovered all the problems were caused by his arrogance. No tools, no maintenance and no idea meant his big end bearings had gone, the chain had snapped, his frame was snapped, and not before Mikail's patience also snapped. Rodriguez did nothing to help and expected everything to be done for him. He had a personal fixer who planned the whole trip ahead for him. Mikail asked him to remove the plastics and battery to ensure the bike was welded quickly. The Brazilian just left it all to them. Next morning Mikail arrived and let his frustration show.
"How can this guy ride around the world with no tools? He rode four days with a noisy engine until someone at a fuel station told him to put some oil in. He never lubed the chain and when I asked him to remove the battery and he said 'Bike has battery?!! I don't want to help this guy!" Well, we all laughed....
The next four days were spent trying to find a cheaper way to the USA. Problems with fumigated wood for the crates not being available in Russia, long shipping routes to Anchorage, crazy flight prices and crate sizes too small for the bikes and general uncertainty of extra charges. Japan was too complicated, needing the bikes to be registered and not having a Carnet meant Korea was the cheapest option. Mikail drew me a map of the ferry route from Vladivostok to Slavyenko, and road to Zarubino, where we could get a ferry to Sok Cho in South Korea. This meant we would also miss 200km of bad road. Sounds good to me.
Andrei, the club secretary, told me about the best day of the year in Vladivostok tomorrow, speedway! We had to go.
We changed our chains and sprockets, Geoff showing me how to split a chain and break the splitter, but one of the mechanics had one and removed my chain for me. Geoff fixed the new rivet link on for me doing a top job.
That evening Andrei chauffeured us and his wife Ulia to the stadium to watch Commander (team) Vostok against the Ukraine. A walkover, 60-30 to Vostok. An exiting night and Andrei was in his element, a huge fan.
A great day to end our stay in Russia, as tomorrow was our last day. Or so we thought....

Ussurisk Ride to work day celebrations

Jima, the old mechanic at Vlad Moto, meticulously spent two hours carefully plastic welding my broken chain guard and making a template before cutting a piece of sheet metal and riveting the two pieces together. I was amazed at his skills, a true artist and proud of his work. The finished chain guard, much improved on the original, and finished off to the highest standard, at no charge! I only asked if they had something I could use to fix it myself!

Phil and Dot arrived in their camper van, proudly showing off his new alternator. Nearly two weeks wasted waiting for it and Phil was eager to move on. After he bought us shashlik and a coffee! So good to see him happy and we wished him a safe journey. I would miss them and hope to see them in Ramsgate when they return.
Mad Max and a few others rode to Ussurisk that evening, keen to party. We would leave in the morning, proudly following Mikail on his Honda VX 1800 with beautiful tiger paintwork.
We left with six bikes, with more joining on route. Mikail followed later after more 'business.'
Soon there were 18 bikes with many more overtaking. A fantastic feeling and as we entered Ussurisk, we joined a whole park full of bikes.
We were introduced to Danielle Murdoch from New Zealand, an architect riding a Honda 250 all the way to London. She had conquered Vietnam and Cambodia so Russia should be a breeze.

The convoy of bikes to the campsite was helped by the police holding the traffic and red lights were ignored. A fantastic sight to have bikes as far as you could see! Just to celebrate 'Ride to work day.' In total around 270 bikes piled into a forested area by a large river. Everywhere we went people offered food and vodka, an amazing experience.
Later that evening I asked Alexander 'The Architect' and second in command of the Iron Tigers to tell everyone about Geoff's accomplishment of a million biking miles in his lifetime. Geoff was dragged on stage and given a T-shirt and the obligatory bottle of vodka. I got a good photo of him being given 'respect' from the crowd! A great night was had by all.
Danielle left heading to Kabarovsk in the morning and onto Mongolia. Much braver than me and her entire kit weighed 16kg, less than my trainers! After the a sauna and dive into the cold river for Geoff, while I bravely watched, we followed Mikail back to Vlad Moto. That was until he was overtaken by a Suzuki Bandit 1200 and most of a Yamaha R1. I was ushered to follow them, going slightly faster than the speeds I rode the first time I entered Vladivostok. Well, double actually, about 20mph less than the bike was capable of and about 20mph more than I was capable of....

Another vodka? Yes, I'm afraid it is....

Jacque and Mandy in a huge Toyota 4x4 arrived at the hotel. He was a South African living in Australia with a British passport. No I don't understand it either but they were heading in the same direction a s Phil and Dot, so Phil at least had someone to drive with. Providing his alternator arrives...
I headed off to look for another Aussie couple, Mike and Jo, riding a BMW GS 1100 who had left a note on my bike. Phil Joined me for a stroll so he could tell me his worries waiting for his alternator and being stuck in Vladivostok a long way from his family, without letting Dot know just how depressed he was. He had to put on a brave face to keep her spirits up. I was concerned about running out of money in the States as some of the shipping quotes we got were more than the bike was worth! We both knew everything would work out fine somehow and cheered each other up.
We said our farewells and rode to Vlad Moto. I didn't get much sleep as usual, choosing to sleep on the office floor giving Geoff some space upstairs. Very heavy rain all night and throughout the day, meant we had a damp bus ride back to the hotel to use their free WI FI! The quote for flights were ridiculous so we decided shipping the bikes was the way to go, we just had to find a company who would let us share a container, but that's not the Russian way of doing things. They have a set way, with no compromise and if you don't ask the rights questions, you won't get the answer you want. They don't give alternatives to their straight answers. For example, I asked Mikail if I could make him a coffee.
"No."
"Ok, no problem. Is there anything else I can get you?"
"I don't drink coffee in the afternoons, only in the morning."
"Ok, I understand, would you like me to get you something else to drink?"
"In the evenings I drink maybe, tea."
"Ok, would you like me to make you a cup of tea?''
"Yes."
Mike and Jo arrived to wash their bike the next morning, otherwise they would get charged $1000 for customs to clean it for them when entering Australia! We changed our brake pads and when Phil and Dot arrived in a taxi I went back to the hotel with them on the bus (about 25p) to use the hotel WI FI. Geoff sent a text message saying how enjoyable the Iron Tigers barbecue was....
They were celebrating a shipment of bikes arriving and were decidedly over refreshed with drink when I returned. I still had to help resolve the problem of the vodka bottle needing to be empty long after Geoff staggered upstairs. At least I slept well that night!

Coffee sir? Bear with me.

We saw our first bear today before our morning coffee. Luckily for us it was in a cage outside a cafe. Not so lucky for the bear, but at least we felt safe. Safe until Geoff got a bit close taking a photo and it took a swipe at his leg....
Here's a travel tip. If you leave empty drinks cartons on the bike because there isn't a bin nearby, be prepared for a thousand ants hitching a ride!
The road to Vladivostok is a busy one, mainly because it's the only road! We made it to Ussurisk and luckily found a cheap hotel with secure parking in the town centre. A big guy working as a doorman for the cafe next door has a broken Honda Blackbird and would keep an eye on the bikes for us. Top bloke. In the morning I found a note on the bike from a local guy wanting to ride to Vladivostok with us, but he had to go to a bike meet that weekend. It must be a big meet judging by dozens of bike we saw riding in the opposite direction from us!
The last 30km into Vladivostok was a very busy dual carriageway leading straight into the town square. We had made it!
Typically all the hotels were expensive and as all the bikers had left town we had no luck finding the elusive Iron Tigers. No-one had heard of them except for a scrupulous taxi driver wanting 500 rubles....
The Hotel Vladivostok was our refuge for the next three nights in order to be registered. A fiat Ducato camper van sat in the car park and the next day we met Phil and Dorothy Spain, a lovely couple from Ramsgate on there way back home from the States via Russia, Mongolia and a few of the Stans. All they needed was an alternator from the UK. Their van had been raided and most of their stuff stolen and the alternator had mysteriously burnt out. All this happened on the boat from USA! To say Phil was in high spirits wouldn't be the truth....
Follow their amazing journey at http://www.wrinkliesontherun.com/ and feel free to donate to their charity!

I found the Iron Tiger's shop on the internet http://www.vladmoto.ru/ but no address. No-one knew where it was and it took three days for someone to answer the phone. That someone happened to be Mad Max, who swiftly turned up at the hotel on a souped up Honda Blackbird. His bike turned into a swift through the busy traffic as he led me to the shop. Geoff stayed behind to meet with Phil's Russian fixer to see if he could help us ship the bikes to Anchorage.
I met Mikail Shlushkin, the owner and leader of the Iron Tigers. All were busy doing 'business' and I was left to wander around for a while. I didn't feel welcome at all and was beginning to think it was a mistake to be there until Mikail finally came outside and welcomed me, saying they help all bikers and we were welcome to stay at there shop for as long as we liked for free!
Like I said before, you can get better than a Kwik Fit fitter....