The road really does go around the world. The road to our future.

Many people doubted it could be done. Others said I was mad for even attempting it. I'll be honest and admit at times it was extremely difficult. Everyone doubts their own abilities, but you never know how strong you are until you have something to kick against. With perseverance, never being one to do things by half once I've committed myself, I completed an entire three course in-flight Aer Lingus meal! When you are hungry you'll eat anything.

I was surprised my wad of Dollars was enough for a coffee at the current exchange rate and in a state of shock, almost boarded a plane from Dublin to Scotland. The flight number was almost the same as mine, from the same gate, and looked close enough to my bleary eyes after no sleep all night.

I love the Irish accent, especially from a beautiful airline stewardess, and unlike most Americans, I can place accents to their countries, not that I'm bitter in any way at not being recognised as an Englishman across 19 States....

I think my luggage must have flown via Spain to Gatwick. It had obviously lost a bull fight, but there's nothing breakable, so I kicked it back into shape.

The sound of the London Estuary accent was the first sign of familiarity I'd had in a long time. It's strange how you long for something to remind you of home, even in America, it's still a foreign country with a foreign language. I had to learn to say things such as 'A Monneray Jack and oreggano toasted special foot-long with Swiss, no side and a tall double shot with a twist to go...' I had no idea what I was ordering but the staff were extremely friendly to the point of asking if I'd like it regular. A kind gesture but I had to move on, looking like a Scotsman carrying a caber and a bucket of coffee.

My brother Steve and my dad greeted me at Gatwick. I was in a dream-like state, still desperately trying to organise all the information and images, spanning five months, spinning in my mind like a spool of film and panicking, thinking I was being driven onto the wrong side of the road!

I feel lost without my bike. Due to the current worldwide economic state, there are less frequent cargo flights so I wont receive the bike until the 13th Oct. I don't think I'll really feel like I'm home until I'm riding it in no particular direction, with the sun on my back and a grin on my face and a view of the world you can only get by riding all the way around it.

I've seen some amazing man made things, awe inspiring natural scenery, met some wonderful friendly people, experiencing their lives and cultures, enriching mine. It makes no difference which country you live in, we are all the same. We all love our families, we all need food, water, shelter and friendship. Each new friend I've made represents a new magical world within me. I feel like I have buried treasure across the globe. It saddens me that countries are separated by politics, creating fear and making strangers of our neighbours.

"We are not enemies, but friends. We must not be enemies. Though passion may have strained, it must not break our bonds of affection. The mystic cords of memory will swell when again touched as surely they will be by the better angels of our nature." ~Abraham Lincoln

New York, New York!

I planned to visit the Wright-Patterson air force base, the largest air museum in the world near Dayton Ohio, where the Wright brothers first flew. But it was getting late so I stopped in Cambridge, not far from Norwich, and found a small Budget Inn at $35 a night, cost covered by the local police force! So many English town names over here! The bath was small, the water tepid and the decor circa 1960, but it was luxurious. I'd been averaging 350 mile days and covered 850 in the last two. It was one of the best cramped baths and softest of beds. Pitching the tent had become a little tedious lately!

One thing is certain in America, the coffee is always good and available everywhere, except for Budget Inns...
Early morning at a nearby gas station, a homeless guy admired my bike and my coffee. I couldn't offer him a lift to Kansas even if I wasn't carrying luggage, I was heading East. Everyone I meet in the US is so friendly I felt I had to return the favour and gave him my $17 change. A foreigner with a nice motorcycle often gives the impression of money, but it's everything I own. I don't have a house or a job either but I'm still better off than a lot of people. He hadn't eaten for two days.
It's been difficult to judge the time it takes to cover distances here, but I always plan to get ahead rather than fall behind, arriving in Potomac, Maryland a day early.

The ride across West Virginia into Maryland was beautiful, so many trees and noticeably fresher air over the mountains. My cousin Gillian was away for the weekend at her 50th school reunion, but her husband Alan (great name!) was the perfect host. I'd ridden 5000 miles since I last saw him in Seattle. Potomac is only a few miles from Washington DC but a world apart. A small village surrounded by trees and huge houses with two acres upwards. I relaxed outside watching his three horses, five deer and a fox wandering across the vast back yard!
Next day was a quiet Sunday in Washington DC, chauffeured by Alan who, having worked as a lawyer on Capitol Hill, knew everything about the city. There are no tall buildings as no building may be more than 20ft higher than the width of the street in front of it. Everywhere is spotlessly clean and many open spaces mean there are no crowds either. No neon signs or huge adverts for Coke or McDonalds. This is my kind of city! I had an obligatory pose for a photo outside the Whitehouse, not realising that the view we often see is actually the back of it, the front not quite so appealing.
Gillian arrived home late Sunday, so I didn't get to meet her until Monday afternoon when she returned from work. I'm lucky to have such a great family.
It was so nice to relax and have a couple of days off the bike, busying myself helping Alan scrape the loose paint from his shed and going for walks with the dog. I even got to see a Manchester United game in between all the political debates.

If it wasn't for the worsening oil leak, I had enough money left to stay in America another two or three weeks, but I need something to live on at home until I find a job, and I owe my dad for clearing my credit card bill for me!
So my flight was 9.40 PM Wednesday, and I'd planned to arrive in New York a day early to see the sights. I wasn't too keen on riding the bike across a busy city and decided to stay in Potomac another day, hoping to plan a proper visit to New York when I return someday.

I had a choice between Route 1 into Philadelphia, crossing several interesting towns, or Interstate 95, via the infamous New Jersey Turnpike. I had about 6 hours to cover 250 miles. Not knowing how long it would take on Route 1, chose the Interstate to make sure I had time to drop the bike at Valley Stream, Long Island. I smiled to myself when I saw a sign for New York. After 5 months of travelling I was actually going to make it! The Turnpike was reasonably quiet compared to the morning rush hour around DC, and I made it to Staten Island in good time. I was annoyed at being charged the same as cars across all the tolls, varying between $2 and $8, but they charge by the axle and I couldn't argue. Even if I could wheelie that far I still have two axles! A total of $24 in tolls, got me across Staten and Coney Island, where I could see the Statue of Liberty and the Empire State Building in the distance. I was running lower on fuel than I planned, due to the riding the high speed Interstate all day. I asked a guy how many miles left to JFK. He said 10 minutes. I needed to know exactly how many miles to work out the fuel because the bike needed to be almost empty for the flight home. I explained I needed to know the exact mileage. He told me it wouldn't be any more than 10 minutes. None the wiser I chose to put another gallon in the tank. The small busy streets around Valley Stream were a nightmare, especially as I arrived from a different junction than planned due to the fuel stop. As soon as I recognised a street name and got my bearings, I found the Berklay Building where I'd leave the bike. I disconnected the battery, sorted the luggage and left it in the capable hands of Greg. http://www.shipmybike.com/
The cost of flying the bike was around 20% higher than shipping, $1945 inc. customs and fuel surcharges etc. but only 1-2 weeks, opposed to 6-8 weeks in a container ship. I'd thought seriously about selling the bike to save money but if I don't get it home I'll feel like the trip wont be completed.
One of the guys offered a lift to JFK in a huge International truck. I had over 6 hours until my flight but I would be glad of the rest. Huge signs on the approach to the airport tell you which terminal the airlines fly from, in my case Aer Lingus, terminal 4. If you forget that, it's also colour coded, so we followed the blue lane to the blue terminal. Each terminal is like a small town with plenty to keep me occupied. A small chubby guy in a flat cap and over sized sunglasses was ordering a hot coffee. Could he have it hot? It must be hot, can't have it too hot. He kept repeating over and over until he got his coffee. He overheard me asking for a cappuccino.
"You're Russian, right?"
"No, English actually."
"But you have Russian relatives, right?"
"No, English."
"You must have grandparents who are Russian?"
"No, all English, from England, that's why I'm speaking with an English accent, I'm not Russian!"
"But you have such big hands!"
"Well, thanks for noticing but I don't think they're out or proportion..."
"Can you do this?" he asked, touching both earlobes with one hand.
"Er, no, not than I've ever..."
"I can! I'm an exception!"
"You certainly are! I believe my coffee is ready, nice to meet you." I shook his huge fat hand.
"Gardam! That's some mitt you have there! Have a nice flight!" He slapped me on the shoulder with his side of beef sized hand.
"Er thanks, I will!"

Wow, you're a real trooper! Er, thanks, so are you!

I've tried to avoid American fast food and eat healthy as much as possible, very important on a long trip. I was warned to avoid truck stops but I was interested to see as much American culture as possible. I think there were a few 'cultures' growing in the corner of the restaurant and I was offered a booth or a table. I chose the booth because the mountainous truck drivers wouldn't fit in them. I sat fascinated buy several guys returning frequently with as much food as they could carry from the 'all you can eat' shrimp bar. I guessed it may be called 'all you can eat' because that's all there is on offer. I've seen some rotund gentlemen on my travels but when the light was blocked by a drifting marquee, that on closer inspection appeared to be a T-shirt with a 'Michelin man' inside, I thought it was about time this guy was taught the difference between 'want' and 'need.'
I managed to find a single quart of engine oil amongst all the essential accessories a truck driver needs, like a 'Colonel Bogey' horn, an LED Stars and Stripes, so everyone knows where you're from and a spare wheel arch covered in blue lights which I assume often gets used as a shoe horn to enter the vehicle. The bike had barely used any oil on the whole trip until the clutch arm leak, which is steadily getting worse. At this rate I should make it to New York but without knowing the exact cause of the problem, it's a bit of a worry.

Ohio looked quite interesting after the vast plains of Wyoming, Nebraska and Iowa. Indiana was very welcoming and friendly, and Ohio was no exception. Randy, a State Trooper from 'twenty minutes East' from this rest stop, offered to show me around the local station. I had some strange looks from passing motorists, not unusual for me but fraternising with police officer must be a rare sight. Especially when everyone wanted to join in for the photos.
"Alan Kelly, wow, you're a celebrity! I've got a sister in Manchester England. I'll have to remember your name for when you're on the TV! Good luck Alec!"

Riding close behind a police cruiser at 70mph, with a huge tailback of impatient drivers along the interstate for twenty minutes was a surreal experience, but I was enjoying every minute! Usually the motorcycle is in front of the police car!
Randy was a biker himself, racing a Suzuki gsx600 for fun, and a Honda Fireblade for the road. If I was in Ohio longer, he would take me to the track for a free day racing. Very tempting but I have to keep moving East. I met all the guys, including Lisa the secretary who was sure she saw me in Oregon along the coast. After an in-depth tour of the station, even the garage where the Dodge V8 engine proudly sat after generating the power during the recent storms, essential to recharge the rows of 'Tazers,' I was given an information pack usually given to schools, in case I ever have kids of my own. I hoped to meet someone in America but I don't think women are attracted to bikers, especially one that looks like he's been living rough for five months...
Randy asked if I'd eaten that day. It was 3.30pm and a restaurant was across the street. He stuffed some cash into my hand. It was $40! I couldn't accept, but he insisted saying he made good money as an officer. No-one will believe a motorcyclist chased a policeman along the highway and was given money from him at the station!
A great guy, indeed, you might say he's a super trooper. There, I said it.

Sometimes I wonder how I arrive in such a State

The nights are drawing in and getting cold. Most of the State parks close at the end of September. At Glendo State park, Wyoming I had three sites to choose from and I was the only person there! Wyoming and Nebraska seemed larger then I expected, maybe due to the fact I'm feeling very tired and generally run down. After the excitement of Yellowstone and all the other amazing places, now I have to just keep riding and cover the miles to make it to New York. It's the first time I've actually needed to be somewhere for a long time. Many tempting motels invite me to sample their spas and luxurious pampering but luckily for me, there are many campsites along the Interstate highways. The KOA campsites in particular have everything a weary traveller needs, and at $17, perfect for my meagre budget.
Trevor and Elenor invited me over to their Behemoth RV for a couple of beers. They've been on the road for nine years, covering 49 States except North Dakota so far. Part of the 'Q-tip' brigade as they call it. Retired Americans often travel this time of year, after the summer rush and now the kids are back in school.
Strangely for me, I'm revered as an accomplished world wide traveller to most people I meet here, but to me I'm still inexperienced on my first trip!

I stopped for the obligatory free map at the first rest stop in Indiana, and was greeted by a tall man who asked me If I was 'Big Al' from England. He'd been admiring my bike, but as is often the case with Americans, they ask so many questions before I answer the first one, I don't really get a chance to explain myself. Another guy and his wife came over to me as I walked back to the bike.
'Are you Big Al? Hi, I'd like to officially welcome you to America!'
In the West, I was warned that I wouldn't find so much hospitality and friendly people as I travelled East. Most countries are wary of their neighbours, and America being so large, tends to be wary of different States. But from experience, if anything, they are just as friendly. Maybe everyone from the Mid-West onwards are judged by New York's reputation. My advice is, get to know people before making any judgement, a stranger is a potential friend you haven't met yet.

The Mississippi certainly is a 'Mighty' river, but not too inviting given it's dark brown appearance. As I walked around a small town thinking it was extremely busy and very well lit for daylight hours, I discovered I was actually inside a shop called Wal-Mart. I found it very difficult to shop for anything geared towards a single guy on a bike, mostly being offered multi pack items by the pound, quart or gallon. This explains why so many Americans drive huge trucks, they need them for the weekly groceries....

Historic Centerville, Indiana

After Yellowstone I noticed oil splattered above the right footpeg. It's leaking from a loose clutch arm. And I was led to believe Triumph never leak oil! There's no damage or any reason I can see, it's just worked loose somehow. Not something I can fix on the road, even if I knew what the problem was, I haven't got the tools, gaskets or the money! Besides, the bike is still under warranty, so when I get home, Triumph will have to fix it! I check the oil level everyday and it doesn't seem to be getting worse, but I have no choice but to keep going. I decided to stay on Interstate 80, so if the worst happens, someone will be around to help me.
Even this plan had to change because of the aftermath of Hurricane Ike, the Interstate was closed due to flooding. I wanted to avoid Chicago anyway so a diversion South East to Interstate 70, wasn't too much of a problem. In fact, I've made such good progress riding 3-400 mile days, I've now got time to visit my Dad's cousin Gillian in Potomac near Washington DC. I hope to arrive there on Sunday.
Apart from the oil leak the bike has been faultless, it's a shame I have to keep one eye on it all the time, it spoils the journey, but as long as I keep the oil topped up it should be ok. I have about 1000 miles left to New York so it will be a great shame if the bike doesn't make it after riding over 18000 so far! My body is trying to tell me it's had enough. Everything aches, especially my back after straining to move such a heavy laden machine. At least it's a different part of my back this time! Got to keep going, at least the weather should be ok for the next few days, so I can grit my teeth and pray the bike doesn't break!

Bryce Canyon, Four Corners, Getting tyred, Yellowstone.

Bryce canyon was simply beautiful. I spent a day there, even walking around some of the steep pathways enabling me to fully enjoy my personal lack of fitness. In Sunset point campsite I was greeted by the guy who runs the site, who told me of two Germans who stayed there four days ago. They matched the description of Hans and Volka, who I met in Russia, that would've been an amazing coincidence!
A quick stop at Four Corners Monument, then find some tyres!
You can't go far wrong with the roads around here, most are perfect for bikes, and the scenery is awe inspiring. I headed into Colorado with a view to get a rear tyre in Colorado Springs. I had to change my plan when over 10,000ft up the alpine passes, I noticed a bulge in the sidewall of my front tyre. At least riding a slower pace allowed me to see the view better. The Red mountains were amazing, and very cold at the summit! I stopped in Silverton for a break, then made my way to Montrose. I found a Bike dealership called Davis who specialised in Japanese bikes, who were only too pleased to supply me with two tyres. They were busy the next day, Saturday, which meant I would have to return Monday. This wasn't good news so I explained my trip and within the hour I had two Dunlops fitted with $98 off, sale price! The guys worked past closing time to help me out, again putting British dealers to shame!
The bike handles so much better without the Pirelli Scorpion front tyre from Russia. I still prefer the Michelin Anakees but the Dunlops are fine. I decided to wear them in by heading North to Yellowstone. My favorite place so far! A wolf ran into the road, and along the centreline towards me. After avoiding some buffalo earlier, and a moose I wasn't too surprised at avoiding animals that you would never see on the roads in the UK! Im met Jason Hart, a schoolteacher from Los Angeles, riding an old Hondo Goldwing 1100 painted in Army colours. We shared a campsite to save money and took a slow ride to see 'Old Faithful'. Walking around the Geysers was like a different planet! Jason was staying another night and I decided to get moving East in the morning, after he showed me how to toast marshmallows, and squash them between two sweet crackers with chocolate, known as S'mores.
I lay under the clear sky listening the the Moose whistling to themselves, I was not looking forward to heading East.
I wanted to stay in Yellowstone for a few days but as I've booked a flight home on the 23rd Sept, I need to do some serious mileage!

Public Library, Milford, Utah

Oregon is without a doubt a bikers paradise. After 1500 miles of enjoying myself, I headed South along the coast to Coos Bay. I met Steve and Nicole from Switzerland, riding two BMW 650s who are riding down to Argentina. They have a detailed map on their Sat-Nav and convinced me to ride the forest roads with them to Crater Lake. I was planning to ride to the Redwoods and San Fransisco but this journey has taught me that it's not where you go that matters as much as who you meet on the way.
Crater lake is simply stunning, as were the roads leading to it. From there Steve and Nicole are heading into the desert, and I'm going South. I'm avoiding Interstate roads as much as possible because I want to experience America, not just ride across it.
I found an amazing road down to Yosemite, probably the best so far, and it got even better as I left the valley passing El Capitan, and crossed the park to stay at Tuolumne meadows.
Too much beautiful scenery to take in, I will have to come here again one day.

Time and money are running out so it's time to head East. Crossing Nevada in a day was some task, 400 miles to Lehman caves across the loneliest roads I've ever seen. Passing a car every 10 - 20 miles! Not recommended if your head isn't as straight as the road! The heaviest rain I've ever seen followed me across the valleys between the mountains, but I just managed to keep ahead of it. One thing about riding these roads instead of the Interstates is you can choose what speed you like, there's no one else there! You can rest assured at no point did I break the speed limit....of the bike. Fuel consumption is less than economical at higher speeds and out here you have to be careful. Gas stations are few and far between.

Last nights campsite on the mountainside was one of the best yet. Next to streams and a stunning view across Nevada and Utah. Rain started to fall just as I stepped off the bike. A soul stirring storm entertained me for the evening, making my pile of firewood difficult to light, but my souvenir Yosemite newsletter made good kindling!
Mitch, a Yamaha 1200 rider recommended a few biking roads with good campsites. You can't beat local knowledge. This area has some of the best stargazing sites in the world. I had to agree after seeing some of the night skies recently. Shame it's cloudy tonight.
Today (Wednesday) I hope to see Bryce Canyon, and find a quiet campsite somewhere along the way. Yosemite was still busy, I had the last spot available, no doubt Bryce will be the same.
Colorado looks good, as do so many other places, who knows where the road will take me next?
The USA has too much to see but I'll try to see as much as possible. I must find a rear tyre soon but that's minor details....I'm enjoying myself too much.

Old Boyz in the Hood

Saturday proved to be one of the best bike rides I've ever had. Oregon is a beautiful state with perfect roads. The view from Hood mountain was as spectacular as the ride around it in Hood National Park.

Today was a different story. I wanted to write about another fantastic ride with my friend Stan Hellman but as we were returning we were plagued by a young guy trying to race us in his small Toyota. I slowed to let the idiot pass but after a mile we caught up to his steaming wreck, upside down in some brambles at the roadside. Stan called the emergencies while I ran to the car. I could hear the brambles cracking so I knew he was climbing out ok. I helped the blood soaked kid up and sat him down to calm him. Then I heard someone else in the car. The driver was trapped upside down by his seat belt. I couldn't reach him through the flattened door window. I tried to keep him calm but he was starting to panic. I had to get him out. I lay by the car and wriggled my shoulders inside. I could just reach the belt clip but his body weight was pulling down on it. I pushed as hard as I could splitting my thumb on the catch. He was free! He said he was ok to climb out. No bones seemed to be broken but he had a bad gash to the head. A car arrived with a man and wife who helped keep him calm until the ambulance arrived within 5 minutes. The medic said he had bad internal injuries and was dying. I left them to do their job. After Stan and I made statements we left cautiously. Stan was angry and I was upset at not being able to do anything to make sure he lives. I know he's in the best hands and I hope he survives.

Life is too precious to waste. Every day is a gift, that's why they call today the present day.