Sincere apologies for such a break in my updates! Geoff has precedence with the internet to make sure the Riders Digest gets regular updates, and as he has a laptop, is able to get ahead with his blog. But now I have an opportunity, here goes!
On 20/6/08, after parting with the Polish guys, Barclays kindly stopped my debit card to protect me from someone making large withdrawals. I explained that ATMs are few and far between in the middle of Russia and would they kindly reinstate my card. Luckily for me, after lots of questions they agreed! I've been paranoid ever since but luckily it's been ok so far...
We met Fred and Asi from Switzerland in Novosibirsk, driving to Mongolia in their converted Toyota Hi-Lux. We met them again when we stopped to chat to Roland, a German cyclist on his was to China. We must all be mad! We camped together by a river, joined by swarms of small flies. In the morning, an old man living nearby insisted we entered his house. Russian houses are not the most attractive, but inside was so clean and tidy, a total contrast to outside. A retired sailor, with pictures of his entire life on the wall like a self portrait. Painted wooden floors, curtains for doors, a nice display cabinet with modern ornaments. Self sufficient with all he needs growing in the allotment outside, even cannabis amongst the rhubarb! Cannabis seems to grow wild by the roadside, so I'm not sure if he even realised it was there.
Once we passed Kansk, the road got very bad, as Klaus, another German cyclist has warned us. How I laughed as I rode into potholes, dust, gravel and multi-directional oncoming traffic....
This is where I would learn to ride off road for the first time, on a motorway!
A large new motel looked inviting, but only charged by the minute, not having a set price for a night. Further along, Rick from Germany, (they must be all riding across Russia!) stopped to see if we were ok when my chain guard decided the road was too difficult for it to stay attached. He was riding a BMW that he had built himself with 40ltr tank! He rode twice as fast as me, but I managed to stay on until we found a good spot in a field. The trees are fairly spread out making it difficult not to be seen from the road. We had a great night around a huge fire, even the bear in the distance didn't worry us......much!
Next day the roads improved but still bad in places. The first time we rode in the rain since France, as we entered Irkutsk. Rick needed a Mongolian visa so we agreed to stay with him three days. Hotels were expensive, but a friendly couple in a passing car led us to a cheap hotel, which we later discovered (during the night) was a brothel! Not much sleep but not much money for a better hotel either!
In Irkustk, an unremarkable city, the rain continued and the roads flooded. Rick was sent from one bank to another trying to transfer money to the Mongolian embassy as the wouldn't accept cash. At the fifth bank he lost his temper and amazingly the teller changed her tone and agreed the transfer saying it wasn't a problem. It's a strange system of 'NYET' after 'NYET' until you finally get a 'DA!' You just have to learn to ask the right questions as they don't give you alternatives, only straight answers. Particularly frustrating to a German, said Rick, as Germans don't have a sense of humour! The embassy, naturally was closed when we returned but after an argument they let him in and promised a visa within three days.
A busy internet cafe full of kids playing games, turned out to be a nightmare when Geoff realised later that his phone, camera and spare wallet had been stolen. But the owner basically said they're just kids and the paperwork from the police was not worth it.
On the plus side, my visa worked and the food in the King Arthur themed Lancelot was excellent.
The taxi/submarine returned us to the brothel, where we gladly checked out in the morning after sitting for coffee, with the two guys in black watching us who arrived yesterday with two Kalashnikovs....
On 20/6/08, after parting with the Polish guys, Barclays kindly stopped my debit card to protect me from someone making large withdrawals. I explained that ATMs are few and far between in the middle of Russia and would they kindly reinstate my card. Luckily for me, after lots of questions they agreed! I've been paranoid ever since but luckily it's been ok so far...
We met Fred and Asi from Switzerland in Novosibirsk, driving to Mongolia in their converted Toyota Hi-Lux. We met them again when we stopped to chat to Roland, a German cyclist on his was to China. We must all be mad! We camped together by a river, joined by swarms of small flies. In the morning, an old man living nearby insisted we entered his house. Russian houses are not the most attractive, but inside was so clean and tidy, a total contrast to outside. A retired sailor, with pictures of his entire life on the wall like a self portrait. Painted wooden floors, curtains for doors, a nice display cabinet with modern ornaments. Self sufficient with all he needs growing in the allotment outside, even cannabis amongst the rhubarb! Cannabis seems to grow wild by the roadside, so I'm not sure if he even realised it was there.
Once we passed Kansk, the road got very bad, as Klaus, another German cyclist has warned us. How I laughed as I rode into potholes, dust, gravel and multi-directional oncoming traffic....
This is where I would learn to ride off road for the first time, on a motorway!
A large new motel looked inviting, but only charged by the minute, not having a set price for a night. Further along, Rick from Germany, (they must be all riding across Russia!) stopped to see if we were ok when my chain guard decided the road was too difficult for it to stay attached. He was riding a BMW that he had built himself with 40ltr tank! He rode twice as fast as me, but I managed to stay on until we found a good spot in a field. The trees are fairly spread out making it difficult not to be seen from the road. We had a great night around a huge fire, even the bear in the distance didn't worry us......much!
Next day the roads improved but still bad in places. The first time we rode in the rain since France, as we entered Irkutsk. Rick needed a Mongolian visa so we agreed to stay with him three days. Hotels were expensive, but a friendly couple in a passing car led us to a cheap hotel, which we later discovered (during the night) was a brothel! Not much sleep but not much money for a better hotel either!
In Irkustk, an unremarkable city, the rain continued and the roads flooded. Rick was sent from one bank to another trying to transfer money to the Mongolian embassy as the wouldn't accept cash. At the fifth bank he lost his temper and amazingly the teller changed her tone and agreed the transfer saying it wasn't a problem. It's a strange system of 'NYET' after 'NYET' until you finally get a 'DA!' You just have to learn to ask the right questions as they don't give you alternatives, only straight answers. Particularly frustrating to a German, said Rick, as Germans don't have a sense of humour! The embassy, naturally was closed when we returned but after an argument they let him in and promised a visa within three days.
We found a pizza restaurant, and saw someone waving at us frantically. It was Fred and Asi! We assumed we may meet again but this was a strange coincidence. They invited us for dinner that evening at the 'Lancelot'
A busy internet cafe full of kids playing games, turned out to be a nightmare when Geoff realised later that his phone, camera and spare wallet had been stolen. But the owner basically said they're just kids and the paperwork from the police was not worth it.
On the plus side, my visa worked and the food in the King Arthur themed Lancelot was excellent.
The taxi/submarine returned us to the brothel, where we gladly checked out in the morning after sitting for coffee, with the two guys in black watching us who arrived yesterday with two Kalashnikovs....
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