I wanted to open my eyes to the world, not close them on myself

As we prepared to leave the hotel in Chita, Geoff dropped a bombshell. He'd had enough of me and wanted to ride alone. I'd been no help to him and he was quite rightly fed up of carrying me. All I did was bring him down. He was right. He was always organised and I was a mess. Russia had been difficult for me, as were alot of aspects of travelling that I never expected to encounter, especially the most important one, finding out who you really are.
I'd been so worried about everything I'd lost all confidence and felt totally useless. The guilt of letting Geoff do everything and worrying, I didn't even realise how blinkered I'd become. I had no excuse, he was right, I never would've got this far without him and I was panicking. I really didn't want to take the train. The Amur highway may beat me but I have to try. Three crashes so far didn't help me but I was still here and the bike was ok.
Now that I was fully aware of the problems I was causing I could do something about it. I should be Geoff's backup on this trip, not get his back up! I was surprised he agreed to let me tag along if I promised to start pulling my weight. I had to change, get back to my old self. I knew I could and I promised to make the rest of the trip an enjoyable one. Why I couldn't do such a simple thing right from the start is a mystery to me. I was confident when we set off from England, but stupid enough to let things get on top of me, riding the bike was the easy bit....

We left Chita along 200km of scenic tarmac before the gravel started. This is where I would have to prove to myself that I could do this. The Triumph is big and heavy and not suited to off road at all. Just like myself! The first part wasn't too bad. I ridden on worse, slowly my confidence grows, maybe I could make it after all? I thought of all the other bikers riding across the highway, laughing at my ineptitude, but we all have to start somewhere and this road will either kill or cure me.

Ulan Ude - Chita

One of the most difficult things about travelling, is parting company with new friends. Rick was off to the delta on the coast of Baikal, than from Ulan Ude into Mongolia. We said our farewells and sincerely hope to meet again. Rick really is a great guy with many interesting stories, and as he is even taller than me I wouldn't dare say any different!

The scenic road was actually quite good, so I could relax and cruise in the sunshine.

The Lonely Planet guided us to a less extortionate hotel than most in Ulan Ude, where a small bath doubled as our much needed laundry room! Passing lorries spew out so much smoke you can barely see them. This liberally coats us in black soot from the diesel fumes, so you can imagine the colour of the bath water!

The city is an interesting one, with a huge bust of Lenin dominating the town square. We tried a place named 'Happy Food' quite possibly the worst food on the trip so far. Cold chips and a stale roll, but this is normal in most places and we're getting used to it.


Next day, avoiding the thunderstorms that often surround us in the more mountainous regions, we climbed up to over 1000m. Not many secluded campsites to be found and it was getting late. I thought maybe we would descend back down the other side of the mountain and out of the low clouds, but we remained at this height for mile after mile hoping to find a motel. Only a cafe full of lorry drivers emerged from the darkness but nowhere to sleep. A good road surface in the dark was still dangerous, as you never know when it will turn into a bad one. We pressed on until Geoff found a spot almost out of sight by a road bridge.

I sheltered under the bridge as the rain started to fall. A small dry patch in between the concrete supports, away from the cow tracks and other unmentionables! Geoff slept in his Bivvi bag by the bikes. I was reasonably warm for a while, but the temperature soon dropped, so I curled up wearing my gloves and balaclava. I didn't sleep a wink and the passing lorries shaking the bridge didn't help, so that was a long night!

An early start meant the first three cafes were closed and the fourth had no eggs and our grasp of the Russian language hadn't gone much further than 'Yeht-so and khleb' (eggs and bread) but the fifth one did! Geoff wasn't in a good mood. I felt sorry for him having such a bad night. If I'd let him check out a possible campsite we saw before it got dark, instead of suggesting it maybe better down the other side of the mountain, we may have been sheltered in our tents. He wasn't enjoying himself and everything I tried wasn't helping.

We've tried to avoid hotels as much as possible but after last night we deserved one. Generally we try to find a 'Hotel Turist' as most cities have one, usually old badly renovated Soviet hotels but always fascinating to see. Chita was no exception, and like most Russian cities we got our bearings from the mandatory Lenin statue.

A simple shower felt so good and a soft bed was pure luxury! I sat eating a bag of mushroom soup flavour crisps, gladly watching a big thunderstorm from the shelter of a dry hotel, contemplating the Amur highway and a thousand miles of gravel 'road.' It can't be that bad can it? People ride across it all the time, including a guy called Richard Lindley in 2006 on a Triumph Tiger the same as ours. He crashed once or twice......

Come in number six, your time is up!

We had a late start from Bolshoi Calais, saying farewells and crowds of photo opportunities, we felt like celebrities! Back in Irkutsk I couldn't get money from an ATM. Rick managed to but after another go I realised it was out of cash and found another one in a pharmacy which paid out. Good job I'm not the worrying type.....

The evening mist from the lake was making me cold for the first time in Russia, after expecting to be frozen at night time crossing Siberia, the weather has been excellent, too hot in fact during the afternoons. Two kids on a scooter stopped us. We gave them fuel, water and Geoff even gave them a cigarette, then off they went carrying a guitar with them.

Rick found a good spot to camp on the edge of Lake Baikal near to the railway. A few big puddles but I was ok following their lead until a railway sleeper hiding in a huge puddle didn't move out of the way of my front wheel! My third crash so far. Luckily I rolled across the pile of sleepers so only half of me got wet! A few scratches to the bike and an indicator retrieved by Geoff from the water while I squelched up and down with a boot full of cold water! Luckily Geoff remembered to take a picture before we dragged the bike up, and my bag proved to be waterproof but apparently I didn't look too jovial in the photo....

I sat by the fire on the beach with Rick late that night and he sensed I was fed up. I was annoyed with myself for crashing for the third time.
"Why don't you just let Russia into your heart?" he asked. I knew Russia wasn't the problem, it was me. The only thing keeping me going was Geoff and Rick, if they could do it, so can I! The ever helpful Russians were also a big help. Everyday they put a smile on my face, they are so full of life, nothings a problem or a worry and I wished I could see life through their eyes.
This trip has been a steep learning curve for me in many ways, but finding out things about yourself you don't like is never an easy lesson. I had a long way to go on these roads and even further in my mind to get back to myself. Something would break soon enough and I was fighting myself all the way. All I wanted was for us to enjoy this trip, why was I making it so difficult for myself? I was only riding a bike all day. Of all the problems I'd anticipated I'd overlooked the most important one, to enjoy it!

A text message from a friend cheered me up. I was raising money for charity and doing some good. I smiled to myself and started to laugh at the sight of me drying my soaking boot by the fire.

Why don't English people just dance?

I found Rick asleep under a tree after I'd taken so long to catch up with him after leaving lake Baikal with Geoff patently following me. That was the toughest ride of my life and I was annoyed with myself for not being able to enjoy it like they could.
Rick wanted us to join him at Bolshoi Calais, an old Soviet holiday camp he had discovered 'couch surfing'. It was very hot in the busy traffic back in Irkutsk, and the road to the holiday site was very bad from my point of view, but I made it and got a strange sense of pleasure from riding successfully on such a bad road and was quite proud of myself! After much negotiating with the park security, Rick was let in to find the young English teacher 'Spike' at the 'Happy School'. Our room was dank but interesting. The whole site had changed little over the years and I was surprised the Soviets even had holiday parks. Maybe it was so they could keep an eye on the holidaymakers if they were all in the same place. Groups of mostly girls played volleyball, tennis, or had lessons of English, art or even mime. The whole place was overgrown and run down but nobody seemed to notice, they we just glad to be there. English had to be spoken at all times, a few songs such as YMCA, Robbie Williams or other joyful songs were sung.
An example from their guidebook was, "It is up to me to be happy, events or circumstances cannot change this" or, "My stomach may be hungry but I will eat when it is time to eat, I am not an eating machine" It seemed like brainwashing to me but they were all very happy and who am I to judge. Geoff entertained a crowd with travelling stories, explaining to one girl how impressed he was to see people dancing in a cafe in Volgograd, as the English need to get drunk before they dance as we are too self conscious. She replied, "Why don't English people just dance?"

Lake Baikal

Amazingly, Geoff in his entire biking life clocked up one million miles on the way into Irkutsk! We were saving the celebrations for Lake Baikal. As we approached Baikal, Geoff overtook me punching the air. We'd clocked ten thousand miles so far! We were heading for the island of Olchon, recommended by many travellers, including two more Germans on BMWs, on their way back home. The road to the island via a free ferry was difficult for me and I was struggling on the gravel. By the time we reached the town the road was sandy and I was finding it impossible. I'd never been so scared riding a bike before and how I'd stayed on this long was a miracle. Geoff has some off road experience and Rick was a master, both giving me helpful tips. Finally it happened. A deep rut and my big foot caught under my pannier twisting my leg. I let go unceremoniously and posed for a photo!
Geoff helped me and the bike up, then searched for a campsite with Rick. A passing Russian walking his dog, said he was a biker and mimed a saxophone saying he had met President Clinton, but meeting me here, all the way from London was even more exciting for him!
Geoff returned, covered in mud after helping Rick out of the tundra, and rode my bike for me across the sand to a beautiful spot by the lake. I was tired, my knee hurt and I needed some sleep. I felt like a burden to Geoff and Rick who had spent all day riding at my slow pace when they could've gone twice as fast. If this is how the road would be, how would I cope? I had aggravated my old knee injury from my accident at 18 with the lorry and I was worried if I damaged it further the trip would be over for me. I tried to put on a brave face but I was in a lot of pain.
Next day my knee was much better after spending the day on the beach with the local cows, while Geoff and Rick rode to 'Nikitas' a famous traveller site with the second most beautiful view Geoff had ever seen.
I'd love to see it but my morale was getting steadily worse. I had been struggling since we left Volgograd, Geoff knew this and was doing everything he could to help, but I couldn't do anything to gain the confidence I needed, I wanted to help him but I felt useless and I still had the Amur highway to look forward to, voted the third most dangerous road in the world. I didn't want to be a burden to Geoff, not being able to ride off road, I wanted to be his backup as he has been for me. I must pick myself up, physically and mentally, I'd got this far....

Novosibirsk to Irkutsk

Sincere apologies for such a break in my updates! Geoff has precedence with the internet to make sure the Riders Digest gets regular updates, and as he has a laptop, is able to get ahead with his blog. But now I have an opportunity, here goes!


On 20/6/08, after parting with the Polish guys, Barclays kindly stopped my debit card to protect me from someone making large withdrawals. I explained that ATMs are few and far between in the middle of Russia and would they kindly reinstate my card. Luckily for me, after lots of questions they agreed! I've been paranoid ever since but luckily it's been ok so far...


We met Fred and Asi from Switzerland in Novosibirsk, driving to Mongolia in their converted Toyota Hi-Lux. We met them again when we stopped to chat to Roland, a German cyclist on his was to China. We must all be mad! We camped together by a river, joined by swarms of small flies. In the morning, an old man living nearby insisted we entered his house. Russian houses are not the most attractive, but inside was so clean and tidy, a total contrast to outside. A retired sailor, with pictures of his entire life on the wall like a self portrait. Painted wooden floors, curtains for doors, a nice display cabinet with modern ornaments. Self sufficient with all he needs growing in the allotment outside, even cannabis amongst the rhubarb! Cannabis seems to grow wild by the roadside, so I'm not sure if he even realised it was there.

Once we passed Kansk, the road got very bad, as Klaus, another German cyclist has warned us. How I laughed as I rode into potholes, dust, gravel and multi-directional oncoming traffic....
This is where I would learn to ride off road for the first time, on a motorway!

A large new motel looked inviting, but only charged by the minute, not having a set price for a night. Further along, Rick from Germany, (they must be all riding across Russia!) stopped to see if we were ok when my chain guard decided the road was too difficult for it to stay attached. He was riding a BMW that he had built himself with 40ltr tank! He rode twice as fast as me, but I managed to stay on until we found a good spot in a field. The trees are fairly spread out making it difficult not to be seen from the road. We had a great night around a huge fire, even the bear in the distance didn't worry us......much!

Next day the roads improved but still bad in places. The first time we rode in the rain since France, as we entered Irkutsk. Rick needed a Mongolian visa so we agreed to stay with him three days. Hotels were expensive, but a friendly couple in a passing car led us to a cheap hotel, which we later discovered (during the night) was a brothel! Not much sleep but not much money for a better hotel either!
In Irkustk, an unremarkable city, the rain continued and the roads flooded. Rick was sent from one bank to another trying to transfer money to the Mongolian embassy as the wouldn't accept cash. At the fifth bank he lost his temper and amazingly the teller changed her tone and agreed the transfer saying it wasn't a problem. It's a strange system of 'NYET' after 'NYET' until you finally get a 'DA!' You just have to learn to ask the right questions as they don't give you alternatives, only straight answers. Particularly frustrating to a German, said Rick, as Germans don't have a sense of humour! The embassy, naturally was closed when we returned but after an argument they let him in and promised a visa within three days.

We found a pizza restaurant, and saw someone waving at us frantically. It was Fred and Asi! We assumed we may meet again but this was a strange coincidence. They invited us for dinner that evening at the 'Lancelot'

A busy internet cafe full of kids playing games, turned out to be a nightmare when Geoff realised later that his phone, camera and spare wallet had been stolen. But the owner basically said they're just kids and the paperwork from the police was not worth it.
On the plus side, my visa worked and the food in the King Arthur themed Lancelot was excellent.
The taxi/submarine returned us to the brothel, where we gladly checked out in the morning after sitting for coffee, with the two guys in black watching us who arrived yesterday with two Kalashnikovs....