The lights are out, and he's off!

I spent an extra day in Seattle trying to fix my bike. Triumph at Tacoma would gladly look at the bike for me but didn't have a much needed clutch cable. Luckily, out of all the Triumph dealers here, Cascade Moto Classics in Beaverton Oregon had one in stock. As it was nearly 200 miles away I thought it best to give the bike a good check over. After much fettling, I stumbled across the cure. I'm not sure exactly what I did but the engine light stayed out! Obviously a bad connection somewhere.

I could relax for a change and plan an early start to Beaverton. I tried to phone a few campsites to check availability, but all were too busy to even reply to my messages. Thats Labor day weekend for you. Everyone is driving their 'land yachts' towing a spare car, and slowing my pace. I wish they could see the benefits of riding a motorcycle without every single creature comfort known to man. Why do you need to take your house with you? I braved the mobile buildings heading South for nearly 200 miles and amazed myself by finding the Triumph dealer at my first attempt.

A clutch cable for $40 and while I was there, asked about some spark plugs. Rick the mechanic was snowed under but if I helped him would do it right away! I doubt my local Triumph dealer would do that for me...

I took the opportunity to fit the cable and a K&N air filter that had survived the journey with me. Two hours and another $100 and I was ready to go. The bike is running perfectly. I thanked the staff for helping me at such short notice, they were amazing people and hanging out at their dealership was like being home from home. I've been told it's the best Triumph dealer in the USA and I can believe it. Thanks again guys!

www.cascademoto.com

I planned to ride to Silver Falls campsite hoping that somewhere around that area I could find a spot in one of the many sites in that region. Then something unusual happened. I had a phone call waiting in the Cascade Moto Classics office. I remembered I'd posted a message on the Triumph RAT site explaining where I'd be in Oregon that day. Stan Hellman greeted me on the phone and offered to show me some great biking roads over the weekend if I wished to stay at his place. How could I refuse such generosity?

I had time to check out the Black Bear diner before Stan arrived on a silver Tiger 955, looking considerably cleaner than my road weary machine.

That evening I was whisked around Portland in Stan's Mazda MX5, designed for people under 6ft, and sampling the locally brewed beer.
Portland is a beautiful city, full of life and I would've missed it all if it wasn't for Stan. That's what's so great about traveling, where you go isn't as important as who you meet. The people make the places what they are, so you experience it rather than just seeing it.

Tomorrow, Saturday, I've been promised to ride biking roads unlike anything I've ever seen. I can't wait.

The lights are on and I'm far from home.

I'm going to miss Port Townsend, especially the sourdough pizzas! Judging distances here takes some getting used to, everywhere is along way away but compared to Russia, not so far! It's good to be back on the road, even if it was only back to Seattle, but I promised to visit my cousin Alycia and her family. She'd booked a hotel for me which I stumbled upon accidentally, as the name had changed. There's too much information along the roads here, it's almost impossible not to look at all the neon signs, adverts and info along the way, as well as having to follow the road signs and scribbled directions on my tank bag in busy traffic. Totally different to riding in Russia.
Only a short run to Ballard to Alycia's house in a very nice area. We sat eating a traditional American dish, pizza. She has an amazing family and I'm glad to be related to such nice people.
Unfortunately my bike wasn't happy. The engine management light (or money light, mechanics tanning booth light etc.) refused to go out. It seems to run ok so I think it's a minor problem but I have to go to a Triumph dealer to be certain before crossing the US. There's one South of here in Tacoma and another one near Portland, Oregon so if it's nothing major, I can continue. The only problem I've had with the engine so far was occasionally running on 2 cylinders instead of 3. I attributed that to the poor petrol in Russia but I did it again twice here as well. Maybe a fuel injector problem caused by all the bad fuel, which will clear eventually or maybe that's why the engine light is on. It's a common problem with Triumphs to have this light stay on and usually nothing serious. I haven't touched any electrical components, so I know it's nothing I've caused which makes it harder to locate a problem.
I haven't budgeted for expensive repairs but if the worst happens I can sell the bike to get home. Not a choice I want to make, it's all I own.
The bike got me this far so I'm sure it can manage a few thousand miles more...

Captain Kelly

David took me to the customs office on Friday to fill the necessary form and get the release form stamped. Then on to Mercers new warehouse to collect the bike. Everyone I speak to mentions Rodrigo, the Brazilian I met in Vladivostok who is in a hurry to get to New York. He had been constantly pestering everyone to get his bike quickly as if it was their duty to obey him. He was long gone with his bike when I arrived and so had Geoff, who I was hoping to meet. I'm glad he got his bike and I hope it started ok, it still has Russian petrol in it!
I was lucky because David had a trailer for my bike. This meant no $50 disposal fee for the crate and I could check the bike over at his house before riding it.
On the way back we stopped at Costco, the largest shopping warehouse I've ever seen! Everything you want as long as it's bulk size!

The bank decided to cheer me up by stopping my card again. Their explanation was that there is a big problem at the moment with ATM card fraud in the US. That maybe so but as I'm here in the US I'm going to need money. Again they assured me all will be fine, unless I decide to go to Canada, where I'd be better off having cash. But every time I make a large withdrawal my card gets stopped again. Also, not being a US resident with a zip code, my credit card is basically useless in most places, as their computer systems wont accept foreign cards. Frustrating to say the least!

Early Saturday we unpacked the bike. The crate was not a good one so will be firewood for David. It's a strange sight opening a crate and seeing your bike inside but I'm glad it made it here ok. No time to check it over properly because after all the rain recently, today finally is perfect sailing weather!
The outboard motor kept flooding with fuel so David went to get some more spark plugs, leaving me on the boat with his friend Steve. Before we got going, all the safety aspects were double checked, and once safely away from the ferries, I was shown how to steer, keeping the wind in the sails. Not easy at first but I soon got the feel for it. I've never been on a sailboat before and I can see why so many people do it. It's great fun, but I prefer my bike!

I don't hate ATMs anymore, I hate the bank!

Cargozone, the Korean container company have been less than helpful. The ship had arrived late Friday night on the 15th. Luckily David knows how things work here and soon had all the information I needed via Hanjin shipping and Mercer distributors. All I needed was a bill for the amount owed to Cargozone for them to release the bike after customs had finished their checks. These checks took from Monday until Wednesday, then the container was moved to Mercer's warehouse in Fife where I can collect the bike on Thursday or Friday. One of these checks involved the USDA (Dept. of Agriculture) having to break open my crate to see what was inside. They are used to dealing with 'aloominum' crates and my crate was an insufficient wooden one made in Korea.
All I have to do is fill out a customs form in Seattle, pay Cargozone and collect the bike. Unfortunately Cargozone haven't yet sent me the bill. They assured me it would be no more than $100 but when they finally emailed me today, Thursday, it was $355 for handling and the USDA test. For some reason they wont accept a card payment which means I'll have to arrange a money order from the post office.
I withdrew $200 so I had enough cash in total to pay Cargozone, then decided to get some more to cover any more hidden costs from Mercer warehouse, but my visa didn't work.

I was well within my daily limit from an ATM but had to use all my mobile phone credit calling the UK 'helpline' because they don't have a freephone number like most places here in the USA do. They stopped my card for the same reason they stopped it in Russia. I was making large withdrawals. I again explained that not everyone accepts a card payment. All was restored and I had to wait 10 minutes before using it again. I waited longer but it still didn't work. An hour later still no luck. At least I had enough for the money order so went back with David to scan it and email it to Cargozone so they could sign the release form for the bike. I tried to add credit to my phone on my email account but unfortunately the system doesn't accept foreign issued cards without a USA postal code.
Once we returned to the post office to send the money order, a visit to Safeway to buy a phonecard and most importantly, locally brewed cold beer.
Cargozone meanwhile, have signed the release form thanking me for my business. I'm glad they appreciate my custom because it's never going to happen again. Tomorrow we head into Seattle to complete the custom form and collect the bike from Mercer's.
I really have missed my bike!

Planes and boats and....a bus

Needless to say I didn't require an ongoing flight when I entered the USA, just my fingerprints and a photo. Different countries may have different rules but is it too hard for them to communicate? Once I found my baggage I phoned David Janos, an amazing guy I met in Dubrovnik. He was travelling Europe using public transport and hiking around any mountain range that was in the way. That's the 'proper' way to travel apparently.
I followed his instructions and got the bus downtown, then walked a short way to the ferry terminal. A huge ferry wafted me across to Bainbridge Island, giving me beautiful views of Seattle and the surrounding bay. David arrived to drive me to Port Townsend via a scenic route. Such an amazing place, but I promised not to tell anyone because the locals want to keep it that way!

David designed and built his own house, and soon showed me to my accommodation. A yacht in his garden! He is also a boat builder, (and a pilot!) and before I knew it, I was set up with a computer and WI FI in the boat. He's also a computer expert....

No sooner had I phoned the airline to refund my ticket, incredibly simple and fast, I had a confirmation email in less than a minute. Customer service in the USA really is second to none.
The cool evening was spent with a cold beer on David's sailboat. If the weather is ok this week, we can go sailing! Life really is rough here but I think I could get used to it.
I love America!

Seoul, Tokyo and onwards....?

I had fun in Incheon airport due to the information on the internet being incorrect. There's always someone to ask and I was soon shuffling along queues and being herded into the departure lounge like human cattle. This is the first time I've been on a plane in 20 years! I was hoping the pilots had more training than the less than smooth local taxi and bus drivers.
I didn't expect much legroom so I wasn't disappointed when I didn't get any. Sitting behind the toilet wall and next to the galley was probably the worst seat on the plane but I was excited at moving on to another country.
Flying above the heavy rain over Seoul was a welcome change and by the time I'd identified most of the food precariously sliding around on my sloping table (my knees were too high...) I was looking down on the beautiful Japanese coastline. The weather was perfect and I guessed the huge volcano above the clouds must be mount Fuji, an awesome sight.

I had more fun at the check in desk at Tokyo airport. Apparently all Japanese tourists to the USA need an ongoing flight booked before entry otherwise they will be deported back to Japan. I said I'm British and this rule doesn't apply to me. They were adamant that this applied to everyone and told me to wait for a customs officer. Naturally I was less than impressed but the custom officer would not let me board the plane unless an onward ticket was purchased. I was lead across the airport to a United Airline desk where they assured me the ticket was fully refundable. It's all about numbers and I'm sure someone is making a profit from all these pre-booked tickets. It was getting close to boarding time and I was now at the back of the queue. Just to make me laugh even more I was chosen for a new type of search involving my bag and myself being searched and weighed so the airline can gauge an average weight of passengers. At least I was 18kg lighter! I soon relaxed into a large 'economy plus' reclining seat with almost enough legroom and a guy with a loud cough to keep me company for the next 9 hrs...

To begin any journey you must take the first step.

Mike and Jo flew home yesterday after travelling for 12 months on their BMW they nicknamed 'The Elephant.' You can see photos of their amazing journey at http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/tstories/hannan/
I shall miss them and hope to see them in Australia one day.
Last night I had a meal with Wendy choi, the lady who arranged our bike shipments for us. She also wants to travel and asked me about Turkey as she heard it was a dangerous country. Istanbul excluded as I never went there, the rest of the country is very friendly. Any country you choose someone will tell you it's dangerous but usually they are not speaking from experience. Wendy is doubtful about her travelling abilities and feels 'safe' in her job, not knowing if she will ever have the courage to go. I felt the same before I left. Once a plan was laid out and more information gathered, the ball started to roll and here I am in Korea! You never know what tomorrow may bring, travelling or not. This is the hardest thing I've ever done but also the most rewarding because of it. I doubt I could be much further away from my 'comfort zone' and like I've said before, living a rich life has nothing to do with money or possessions, it's all about experiences.
A small boy in a shopping centre today got separated from his mother because he was too scared to step onto the escalator. I held out my hand and he took it, taking the first step with me and he was fine. Sometimes you just need a helping hand to take the first step.

Tomorrow I move back into the Namsan Guesthouse for my last night in Korea. It's a case of shuffling from one place to another trying to find a room as everywhere is fully booked.
Friday is the 60th anniversary of Liberation day and is a national holiday. I hope the bus to the airport is still running! I've enjoyed Korea very much but I'm looking forward to America. Naturally I'm nervous at the prospect of going alone but given the size of my feet I can take the first three steps in one go!