Wow, you're a real trooper! Er, thanks, so are you!

I've tried to avoid American fast food and eat healthy as much as possible, very important on a long trip. I was warned to avoid truck stops but I was interested to see as much American culture as possible. I think there were a few 'cultures' growing in the corner of the restaurant and I was offered a booth or a table. I chose the booth because the mountainous truck drivers wouldn't fit in them. I sat fascinated buy several guys returning frequently with as much food as they could carry from the 'all you can eat' shrimp bar. I guessed it may be called 'all you can eat' because that's all there is on offer. I've seen some rotund gentlemen on my travels but when the light was blocked by a drifting marquee, that on closer inspection appeared to be a T-shirt with a 'Michelin man' inside, I thought it was about time this guy was taught the difference between 'want' and 'need.'
I managed to find a single quart of engine oil amongst all the essential accessories a truck driver needs, like a 'Colonel Bogey' horn, an LED Stars and Stripes, so everyone knows where you're from and a spare wheel arch covered in blue lights which I assume often gets used as a shoe horn to enter the vehicle. The bike had barely used any oil on the whole trip until the clutch arm leak, which is steadily getting worse. At this rate I should make it to New York but without knowing the exact cause of the problem, it's a bit of a worry.

Ohio looked quite interesting after the vast plains of Wyoming, Nebraska and Iowa. Indiana was very welcoming and friendly, and Ohio was no exception. Randy, a State Trooper from 'twenty minutes East' from this rest stop, offered to show me around the local station. I had some strange looks from passing motorists, not unusual for me but fraternising with police officer must be a rare sight. Especially when everyone wanted to join in for the photos.
"Alan Kelly, wow, you're a celebrity! I've got a sister in Manchester England. I'll have to remember your name for when you're on the TV! Good luck Alec!"

Riding close behind a police cruiser at 70mph, with a huge tailback of impatient drivers along the interstate for twenty minutes was a surreal experience, but I was enjoying every minute! Usually the motorcycle is in front of the police car!
Randy was a biker himself, racing a Suzuki gsx600 for fun, and a Honda Fireblade for the road. If I was in Ohio longer, he would take me to the track for a free day racing. Very tempting but I have to keep moving East. I met all the guys, including Lisa the secretary who was sure she saw me in Oregon along the coast. After an in-depth tour of the station, even the garage where the Dodge V8 engine proudly sat after generating the power during the recent storms, essential to recharge the rows of 'Tazers,' I was given an information pack usually given to schools, in case I ever have kids of my own. I hoped to meet someone in America but I don't think women are attracted to bikers, especially one that looks like he's been living rough for five months...
Randy asked if I'd eaten that day. It was 3.30pm and a restaurant was across the street. He stuffed some cash into my hand. It was $40! I couldn't accept, but he insisted saying he made good money as an officer. No-one will believe a motorcyclist chased a policeman along the highway and was given money from him at the station!
A great guy, indeed, you might say he's a super trooper. There, I said it.

Sometimes I wonder how I arrive in such a State

The nights are drawing in and getting cold. Most of the State parks close at the end of September. At Glendo State park, Wyoming I had three sites to choose from and I was the only person there! Wyoming and Nebraska seemed larger then I expected, maybe due to the fact I'm feeling very tired and generally run down. After the excitement of Yellowstone and all the other amazing places, now I have to just keep riding and cover the miles to make it to New York. It's the first time I've actually needed to be somewhere for a long time. Many tempting motels invite me to sample their spas and luxurious pampering but luckily for me, there are many campsites along the Interstate highways. The KOA campsites in particular have everything a weary traveller needs, and at $17, perfect for my meagre budget.
Trevor and Elenor invited me over to their Behemoth RV for a couple of beers. They've been on the road for nine years, covering 49 States except North Dakota so far. Part of the 'Q-tip' brigade as they call it. Retired Americans often travel this time of year, after the summer rush and now the kids are back in school.
Strangely for me, I'm revered as an accomplished world wide traveller to most people I meet here, but to me I'm still inexperienced on my first trip!

I stopped for the obligatory free map at the first rest stop in Indiana, and was greeted by a tall man who asked me If I was 'Big Al' from England. He'd been admiring my bike, but as is often the case with Americans, they ask so many questions before I answer the first one, I don't really get a chance to explain myself. Another guy and his wife came over to me as I walked back to the bike.
'Are you Big Al? Hi, I'd like to officially welcome you to America!'
In the West, I was warned that I wouldn't find so much hospitality and friendly people as I travelled East. Most countries are wary of their neighbours, and America being so large, tends to be wary of different States. But from experience, if anything, they are just as friendly. Maybe everyone from the Mid-West onwards are judged by New York's reputation. My advice is, get to know people before making any judgement, a stranger is a potential friend you haven't met yet.

The Mississippi certainly is a 'Mighty' river, but not too inviting given it's dark brown appearance. As I walked around a small town thinking it was extremely busy and very well lit for daylight hours, I discovered I was actually inside a shop called Wal-Mart. I found it very difficult to shop for anything geared towards a single guy on a bike, mostly being offered multi pack items by the pound, quart or gallon. This explains why so many Americans drive huge trucks, they need them for the weekly groceries....

Historic Centerville, Indiana

After Yellowstone I noticed oil splattered above the right footpeg. It's leaking from a loose clutch arm. And I was led to believe Triumph never leak oil! There's no damage or any reason I can see, it's just worked loose somehow. Not something I can fix on the road, even if I knew what the problem was, I haven't got the tools, gaskets or the money! Besides, the bike is still under warranty, so when I get home, Triumph will have to fix it! I check the oil level everyday and it doesn't seem to be getting worse, but I have no choice but to keep going. I decided to stay on Interstate 80, so if the worst happens, someone will be around to help me.
Even this plan had to change because of the aftermath of Hurricane Ike, the Interstate was closed due to flooding. I wanted to avoid Chicago anyway so a diversion South East to Interstate 70, wasn't too much of a problem. In fact, I've made such good progress riding 3-400 mile days, I've now got time to visit my Dad's cousin Gillian in Potomac near Washington DC. I hope to arrive there on Sunday.
Apart from the oil leak the bike has been faultless, it's a shame I have to keep one eye on it all the time, it spoils the journey, but as long as I keep the oil topped up it should be ok. I have about 1000 miles left to New York so it will be a great shame if the bike doesn't make it after riding over 18000 so far! My body is trying to tell me it's had enough. Everything aches, especially my back after straining to move such a heavy laden machine. At least it's a different part of my back this time! Got to keep going, at least the weather should be ok for the next few days, so I can grit my teeth and pray the bike doesn't break!

Bryce Canyon, Four Corners, Getting tyred, Yellowstone.

Bryce canyon was simply beautiful. I spent a day there, even walking around some of the steep pathways enabling me to fully enjoy my personal lack of fitness. In Sunset point campsite I was greeted by the guy who runs the site, who told me of two Germans who stayed there four days ago. They matched the description of Hans and Volka, who I met in Russia, that would've been an amazing coincidence!
A quick stop at Four Corners Monument, then find some tyres!
You can't go far wrong with the roads around here, most are perfect for bikes, and the scenery is awe inspiring. I headed into Colorado with a view to get a rear tyre in Colorado Springs. I had to change my plan when over 10,000ft up the alpine passes, I noticed a bulge in the sidewall of my front tyre. At least riding a slower pace allowed me to see the view better. The Red mountains were amazing, and very cold at the summit! I stopped in Silverton for a break, then made my way to Montrose. I found a Bike dealership called Davis who specialised in Japanese bikes, who were only too pleased to supply me with two tyres. They were busy the next day, Saturday, which meant I would have to return Monday. This wasn't good news so I explained my trip and within the hour I had two Dunlops fitted with $98 off, sale price! The guys worked past closing time to help me out, again putting British dealers to shame!
The bike handles so much better without the Pirelli Scorpion front tyre from Russia. I still prefer the Michelin Anakees but the Dunlops are fine. I decided to wear them in by heading North to Yellowstone. My favorite place so far! A wolf ran into the road, and along the centreline towards me. After avoiding some buffalo earlier, and a moose I wasn't too surprised at avoiding animals that you would never see on the roads in the UK! Im met Jason Hart, a schoolteacher from Los Angeles, riding an old Hondo Goldwing 1100 painted in Army colours. We shared a campsite to save money and took a slow ride to see 'Old Faithful'. Walking around the Geysers was like a different planet! Jason was staying another night and I decided to get moving East in the morning, after he showed me how to toast marshmallows, and squash them between two sweet crackers with chocolate, known as S'mores.
I lay under the clear sky listening the the Moose whistling to themselves, I was not looking forward to heading East.
I wanted to stay in Yellowstone for a few days but as I've booked a flight home on the 23rd Sept, I need to do some serious mileage!

Public Library, Milford, Utah

Oregon is without a doubt a bikers paradise. After 1500 miles of enjoying myself, I headed South along the coast to Coos Bay. I met Steve and Nicole from Switzerland, riding two BMW 650s who are riding down to Argentina. They have a detailed map on their Sat-Nav and convinced me to ride the forest roads with them to Crater Lake. I was planning to ride to the Redwoods and San Fransisco but this journey has taught me that it's not where you go that matters as much as who you meet on the way.
Crater lake is simply stunning, as were the roads leading to it. From there Steve and Nicole are heading into the desert, and I'm going South. I'm avoiding Interstate roads as much as possible because I want to experience America, not just ride across it.
I found an amazing road down to Yosemite, probably the best so far, and it got even better as I left the valley passing El Capitan, and crossed the park to stay at Tuolumne meadows.
Too much beautiful scenery to take in, I will have to come here again one day.

Time and money are running out so it's time to head East. Crossing Nevada in a day was some task, 400 miles to Lehman caves across the loneliest roads I've ever seen. Passing a car every 10 - 20 miles! Not recommended if your head isn't as straight as the road! The heaviest rain I've ever seen followed me across the valleys between the mountains, but I just managed to keep ahead of it. One thing about riding these roads instead of the Interstates is you can choose what speed you like, there's no one else there! You can rest assured at no point did I break the speed limit....of the bike. Fuel consumption is less than economical at higher speeds and out here you have to be careful. Gas stations are few and far between.

Last nights campsite on the mountainside was one of the best yet. Next to streams and a stunning view across Nevada and Utah. Rain started to fall just as I stepped off the bike. A soul stirring storm entertained me for the evening, making my pile of firewood difficult to light, but my souvenir Yosemite newsletter made good kindling!
Mitch, a Yamaha 1200 rider recommended a few biking roads with good campsites. You can't beat local knowledge. This area has some of the best stargazing sites in the world. I had to agree after seeing some of the night skies recently. Shame it's cloudy tonight.
Today (Wednesday) I hope to see Bryce Canyon, and find a quiet campsite somewhere along the way. Yosemite was still busy, I had the last spot available, no doubt Bryce will be the same.
Colorado looks good, as do so many other places, who knows where the road will take me next?
The USA has too much to see but I'll try to see as much as possible. I must find a rear tyre soon but that's minor details....I'm enjoying myself too much.

Old Boyz in the Hood

Saturday proved to be one of the best bike rides I've ever had. Oregon is a beautiful state with perfect roads. The view from Hood mountain was as spectacular as the ride around it in Hood National Park.

Today was a different story. I wanted to write about another fantastic ride with my friend Stan Hellman but as we were returning we were plagued by a young guy trying to race us in his small Toyota. I slowed to let the idiot pass but after a mile we caught up to his steaming wreck, upside down in some brambles at the roadside. Stan called the emergencies while I ran to the car. I could hear the brambles cracking so I knew he was climbing out ok. I helped the blood soaked kid up and sat him down to calm him. Then I heard someone else in the car. The driver was trapped upside down by his seat belt. I couldn't reach him through the flattened door window. I tried to keep him calm but he was starting to panic. I had to get him out. I lay by the car and wriggled my shoulders inside. I could just reach the belt clip but his body weight was pulling down on it. I pushed as hard as I could splitting my thumb on the catch. He was free! He said he was ok to climb out. No bones seemed to be broken but he had a bad gash to the head. A car arrived with a man and wife who helped keep him calm until the ambulance arrived within 5 minutes. The medic said he had bad internal injuries and was dying. I left them to do their job. After Stan and I made statements we left cautiously. Stan was angry and I was upset at not being able to do anything to make sure he lives. I know he's in the best hands and I hope he survives.

Life is too precious to waste. Every day is a gift, that's why they call today the present day.

The lights are out, and he's off!

I spent an extra day in Seattle trying to fix my bike. Triumph at Tacoma would gladly look at the bike for me but didn't have a much needed clutch cable. Luckily, out of all the Triumph dealers here, Cascade Moto Classics in Beaverton Oregon had one in stock. As it was nearly 200 miles away I thought it best to give the bike a good check over. After much fettling, I stumbled across the cure. I'm not sure exactly what I did but the engine light stayed out! Obviously a bad connection somewhere.

I could relax for a change and plan an early start to Beaverton. I tried to phone a few campsites to check availability, but all were too busy to even reply to my messages. Thats Labor day weekend for you. Everyone is driving their 'land yachts' towing a spare car, and slowing my pace. I wish they could see the benefits of riding a motorcycle without every single creature comfort known to man. Why do you need to take your house with you? I braved the mobile buildings heading South for nearly 200 miles and amazed myself by finding the Triumph dealer at my first attempt.

A clutch cable for $40 and while I was there, asked about some spark plugs. Rick the mechanic was snowed under but if I helped him would do it right away! I doubt my local Triumph dealer would do that for me...

I took the opportunity to fit the cable and a K&N air filter that had survived the journey with me. Two hours and another $100 and I was ready to go. The bike is running perfectly. I thanked the staff for helping me at such short notice, they were amazing people and hanging out at their dealership was like being home from home. I've been told it's the best Triumph dealer in the USA and I can believe it. Thanks again guys!

www.cascademoto.com

I planned to ride to Silver Falls campsite hoping that somewhere around that area I could find a spot in one of the many sites in that region. Then something unusual happened. I had a phone call waiting in the Cascade Moto Classics office. I remembered I'd posted a message on the Triumph RAT site explaining where I'd be in Oregon that day. Stan Hellman greeted me on the phone and offered to show me some great biking roads over the weekend if I wished to stay at his place. How could I refuse such generosity?

I had time to check out the Black Bear diner before Stan arrived on a silver Tiger 955, looking considerably cleaner than my road weary machine.

That evening I was whisked around Portland in Stan's Mazda MX5, designed for people under 6ft, and sampling the locally brewed beer.
Portland is a beautiful city, full of life and I would've missed it all if it wasn't for Stan. That's what's so great about traveling, where you go isn't as important as who you meet. The people make the places what they are, so you experience it rather than just seeing it.

Tomorrow, Saturday, I've been promised to ride biking roads unlike anything I've ever seen. I can't wait.