A quick spin from the Ace Cafe, around the world and back.

Riding with Geoff on the M25 in the pouring rain is all I could've hoped for to end this amazing trip. The first time we'd ridden together since leaving the ferry at Sok Cho, Korea. We parked our bikes at the Ace in a special coned off area just for us, exactly where we started from. We were instantly surrounded by familiar faces that saw us set off back in April. I only expected a few to turn up in such bad weather but more and more bikes arrived and soon the car park was as overwhelmed as us. I doubt I'll ever be comfortable having my photo taken. I certainly didn't do this trip for an 'Around The World' badge! I'm just a geezer who likes riding motorcycles, but any publicity I can get for Farleigh Hospice is my pleasure.
One thing I missed on this trip was a good English breakfast, there's only so much Borsch and stale khleb a man can take! The Ace Cafe certainly serves up one of the very best. Many a time in Siberia I dreamt of what it would be like to be back at the Ace, sampling their famous sausages and proudly swapping biking stories with like minded strangers, with the same passion for motorcycles. It seemed like half a world away, and for a time actually was!

If you really want to live the dream, I've proved that anyone can do it. You will find a way. You don't need much money, you don't need previous experience, and you don't need meticulous planning. If you really want to plan a trip, don't waste time thinking of all the things you might need, just think of all the things you don't need! As long as you have a familiar reliable bike, basic tools and spares and a good quality tent that doesn't leak, you'll be fine. Even if you can't read a map, like all other things, it's an opportunity to learn! The journey may take a little longer that's all. A compass never lies, if you don't leave the road, how lost can you get?

People approached me saying they haven't got the guts to ride across Siberia, and yet they've ridden across the Scottish Highlands. What's the difference? If the worst happens, you still have to rely on a complete stranger to help you, and a Glaswegian accent is no worse than Russian! My whole trip across America was a result of meeting strangers, who became friends, leading to an extraordinary chain of events from Seattle to New York. A far better journey than any I could've planned.

When you are in the remotest of places, people are far more likely to stop and help because everyone out there is in the same boat and need to support each other to survive. I never met anybody anywhere who didn't want to help me.

Large cities where people are jostling for space, causes competitiveness, so you will take longer to find help because everyone assumes someone less busy than them can help you. This is why you can't judge Russia by Moscow, America by New York, or people by what the have, it's what they do that matters.
Some of the kindest, happy and most interesting people I met own nothing. But they are full of life, proud of who they are, what they have and give all they have to help you. They have riches beyond most peoples comprehension.

I have no house, no wife and kids, no job, no car and no money, but I am privileged, and having sampled some of what the world has to offer, consider myself to be a very rich man indeed.

To everyone who came to meet me at the Ace Cafe, expressed an interest in the trip, enjoyed my blog and donated money to Farleigh Hospice, thankyou is not a big enough word to express my gratitude.

So what next? Well it's a case of 'ridden around this planet' so when NASA realises that motorcycles are much cheaper to send to Mars than cars, and I can pretend to be under 6ft and 10 stone, who knows?

I hope to plan a smaller trip in the near future to continue raising money for Farleigh Hospice with my two brothers. Imagine three huge blokes riding Honda c90s! Who said you can't have a laugh with no money? If anyone can help with a decent c90 or two, please let me know!

Poor Circulation Grand Finale - Ace Cafe Sunday 16th November 10.30 AM

Ace Cafe London

Ace Corner

North Circular Road

Stonebridge

London

NW10 7UD

Tel: 020 8961 1000
GPS Coordinate N 51:32:26 (51.540455)

W 0:16:43 (-0.278664)
Ace Corner is the junction of Beresford Avenue and the old North Circular Road, between the A40 and the A404 (Harrow Road)

It feels a lifetime ago since we left the Ace cafe on 21st April, and strange to think we headed in one direction, East, and still ended up back where we started!

Sometimes I wonder if I actually rode all the way around the world, or if it just turned a full circle beneath me.

Settling back into 'normal' life is proving difficult, especially now I'm unemployed for the first time. Worst of all, because I gave up my job voluntarily, wasn't entitled to any Job Seekers Allowance, only receiving my first payment last week. The only way I can stay sane is by riding the bike, but that drinks almost as much petrol per mile as Geoff does coffee. So I took the first part-time job I could find, (a storeman in a shoe shop and no, they don't stock anything my size!) only to discover the JSA kindly give me £5, then take a pound for every one I earn over that amount. So I'm working for next to nothing and living on a budget of less than half of what I was on the trip!

Yesterday (Tuesday) Ongar Triumph kindly gave me a brand new Triumph Bonneville to play with while they fixed my oil leak. I made it look like a 125 but the further I rode, the more I enjoyed it. It's no sports bike, but the brakes and handling are good enough to have some fun on the B roads. Very smooth, easy to ride and the slickest gearchange on any bike I've ever ridden.

Very impressive, I didn't want to give it back! I'm already dreaming of riding one across the Rocky mountains....

My Tiger may not have as much 'street cred' as a Bonneville, but it does have an amazing engine. If I'm ever lucky enough to do another trip, I can't think of a better bike.

You never know whats around the next corner. But a motorcyclist knows taking the corner can be as much fun as finding out whats around it.

See you at the Ace!

An around the world Triumph.

After spending a long weekend enjoying the scenery with friends in Wiltshire, I paid a visit to Ongar Motorcycles today (Tuesday) to order the necessary parts so I can fix my oil leak. Brian the mechanic showed me the warranty application he'd sent to Triumph after I left last Wednesday, because he thought it was worth a try. Triumph, like most companies, don't usually honour claims without proof of regular services, but after Brian had explained my unusual journey they immediately agreed.

Unfortunately, Brian showed me an email he received from someone I didn't know suggesting that Ongar Triumph had been unhelpful toward me. This person was only trying to help my case but really should've contacted me first to get the facts before dishonouring someones reputation. Triumph had already agreed because of Brian's help. I apologised for the trouble he got from his boss after receiving this email. None of us expected Triumph to do the work, especially me, but I'm very grateful to Brian and everyone else at Ongar Motorcycles for going out of their way to help me.

Please visit their new website to see the full range of Triumph Motorcycles.

www.ongar-motorcycles.co.uk/

I've often been asked why I chose a Triumph instead of the equivalent BMW. I'm a fan of BMW but always loved Triumphs. After careful research the Tiger 955i was better in almost every aspect except off-road ability. Everything taken into consideration, especially the cost, the carrying capacity, the handling and reliability, in my opinion the Tiger is one of the best all round bikes ever made. Any all round bike is a compromise and none are perfect, but for me the Tiger is a perfect compromise. A guy my size carrying a ridiculous amout of kit is testament to how tough the Tiger is. I doubt any other road bike would've survived! Besides, it's British don't you know. Why fly the flag when you can ride it?

The Hospice Outreach Project.

Choosing a charity to support is a difficult decision. There are so many people in the world who aren't as fortunate as most of us. I have type 2 diabetes but I wanted to support people who need it most. I chose Farleigh Hospice because it's the sole provider of palliative care in Essex. Everyone knows somebody who has been affected by cancer or a life limiting illness. If there is no cure and the hospital can do no more, Farleigh Hospice continues to provide care free of charge, not only for the patients but also helping their families.

The HOP is a 7.5 ton vehicle, specially adapted from Farleigh Hospice.
It is air conditioned and heated for comfort.
The vehicle is 8.4 metres long and 3.9 metres high
When parked a special POD extends out of it to provide more internal room.
It takes 20 minutes to set up on arrival.
It will be visiting one location a day, 3 days a week.
It is estimated that the HOP will see 40 patients each day that it is out.
That means that it will visit 50 sites per year and see an estimated 6,000 patients in a year.
It is estimated that it will travel over 13,000 miles in a year around Braintree, Braintree District, Witham and Great Dunmow areas.

Extraordinary people who concentrate on life, not death. A philosophy I believe in.
This is possible only because of donations made by people who care. Most of the money raised by Farleigh comes from small donations. They need to raise £5000 each and every day to continue their vital services. A heartfelt thankyou to everyone who has donated to Farleigh Hospice.

If you wish to donate, you can do so through my just giving page until the 20th January 2009, www.justgiving.com/alankelly1
or please visit Farleigh website for information.
http://www.farleigh.org/about-farleigh-hospice.cfm
http://www.farleighhospice.org/farleigh-video.cfm

Count the garden by the flowers, never by the leaves that fall. Count your life with smiles and not the tears that roll. ~Author Unknown

The last 85 miles home.

Finally after waiting three long weeks, my bike landed at Heathrow airport on Wednesday 15th October. It should've only taken five days but cargo flights are not as regular lately. It was due to arrive on the 29th September, but didn't leave New York until the 12th October, taking the scenic route via Frankfurt to East Midlands airport before Heathrow. I decided not to use a shipping agent to save money, so I've had all the fun of contacting Lufthansa and being transferred around until finally speaking to the cargo company, to find out where to collect it. After three offices, two piles of paperwork, a long wait and £221 for customs and handling, I'm reunited with my well-travelled Triumph. It was nice to see it strapped safely to an aircraft pallet and not tied with rope inside a cheap Korean crate as it was when it arrived in Seattle.

It's strange to find your bike in a place where you didn't leave it, especially when you last saw it in a different country. I soon reacquainted myself with all my belongings that were mostly where I left them. There are a few things missing but nothing of value. Customs had made a thorough search. I was relieved to hear it start, almost at first attempt and carefully rode to the nearest petrol station. At least I don't have to call it gas anymore.

It was a joy to be riding again, even weaving through miles of stationary traffic on the M25. Probably the worst road in th UK, but I know the difference between a bad road and one thats just busy! Being caught in traffic is just an inconvenience. I doubt I'll ever again ride on roads as bad as some in Albania and Russia, well not on a road bike anyway! I felt proud to be riding in England again, with a sense of achievement, knowing that the bike had made it home safely as well as me.

I stopped at my local Triumph dealer to ask about the oil leak. Caused by an oil seal on the clutch arm, costing a grand total of 85 pence. I couldn't see how any dirt had possibly got in there...

Not straighforward to fix though, because in order to remove the clutch cover, the starter motor and engine covers have to be removed first. Add another £21 for three gaskets. Triumph wont honour the warranty because my service book isn't fully stamped. It would be if they bothered to open a dealership in Siberia! The mechanic also kindly reminded me the bike is now due for it's 24000m service at a cost of £450. I have friends in Vladivostok that would help me service it for free. Looks like I picked to wrong year to give up my job....

The road really does go around the world. The road to our future.

Many people doubted it could be done. Others said I was mad for even attempting it. I'll be honest and admit at times it was extremely difficult. Everyone doubts their own abilities, but you never know how strong you are until you have something to kick against. With perseverance, never being one to do things by half once I've committed myself, I completed an entire three course in-flight Aer Lingus meal! When you are hungry you'll eat anything.

I was surprised my wad of Dollars was enough for a coffee at the current exchange rate and in a state of shock, almost boarded a plane from Dublin to Scotland. The flight number was almost the same as mine, from the same gate, and looked close enough to my bleary eyes after no sleep all night.

I love the Irish accent, especially from a beautiful airline stewardess, and unlike most Americans, I can place accents to their countries, not that I'm bitter in any way at not being recognised as an Englishman across 19 States....

I think my luggage must have flown via Spain to Gatwick. It had obviously lost a bull fight, but there's nothing breakable, so I kicked it back into shape.

The sound of the London Estuary accent was the first sign of familiarity I'd had in a long time. It's strange how you long for something to remind you of home, even in America, it's still a foreign country with a foreign language. I had to learn to say things such as 'A Monneray Jack and oreggano toasted special foot-long with Swiss, no side and a tall double shot with a twist to go...' I had no idea what I was ordering but the staff were extremely friendly to the point of asking if I'd like it regular. A kind gesture but I had to move on, looking like a Scotsman carrying a caber and a bucket of coffee.

My brother Steve and my dad greeted me at Gatwick. I was in a dream-like state, still desperately trying to organise all the information and images, spanning five months, spinning in my mind like a spool of film and panicking, thinking I was being driven onto the wrong side of the road!

I feel lost without my bike. Due to the current worldwide economic state, there are less frequent cargo flights so I wont receive the bike until the 13th Oct. I don't think I'll really feel like I'm home until I'm riding it in no particular direction, with the sun on my back and a grin on my face and a view of the world you can only get by riding all the way around it.

I've seen some amazing man made things, awe inspiring natural scenery, met some wonderful friendly people, experiencing their lives and cultures, enriching mine. It makes no difference which country you live in, we are all the same. We all love our families, we all need food, water, shelter and friendship. Each new friend I've made represents a new magical world within me. I feel like I have buried treasure across the globe. It saddens me that countries are separated by politics, creating fear and making strangers of our neighbours.

"We are not enemies, but friends. We must not be enemies. Though passion may have strained, it must not break our bonds of affection. The mystic cords of memory will swell when again touched as surely they will be by the better angels of our nature." ~Abraham Lincoln

New York, New York!

I planned to visit the Wright-Patterson air force base, the largest air museum in the world near Dayton Ohio, where the Wright brothers first flew. But it was getting late so I stopped in Cambridge, not far from Norwich, and found a small Budget Inn at $35 a night, cost covered by the local police force! So many English town names over here! The bath was small, the water tepid and the decor circa 1960, but it was luxurious. I'd been averaging 350 mile days and covered 850 in the last two. It was one of the best cramped baths and softest of beds. Pitching the tent had become a little tedious lately!

One thing is certain in America, the coffee is always good and available everywhere, except for Budget Inns...
Early morning at a nearby gas station, a homeless guy admired my bike and my coffee. I couldn't offer him a lift to Kansas even if I wasn't carrying luggage, I was heading East. Everyone I meet in the US is so friendly I felt I had to return the favour and gave him my $17 change. A foreigner with a nice motorcycle often gives the impression of money, but it's everything I own. I don't have a house or a job either but I'm still better off than a lot of people. He hadn't eaten for two days.
It's been difficult to judge the time it takes to cover distances here, but I always plan to get ahead rather than fall behind, arriving in Potomac, Maryland a day early.

The ride across West Virginia into Maryland was beautiful, so many trees and noticeably fresher air over the mountains. My cousin Gillian was away for the weekend at her 50th school reunion, but her husband Alan (great name!) was the perfect host. I'd ridden 5000 miles since I last saw him in Seattle. Potomac is only a few miles from Washington DC but a world apart. A small village surrounded by trees and huge houses with two acres upwards. I relaxed outside watching his three horses, five deer and a fox wandering across the vast back yard!
Next day was a quiet Sunday in Washington DC, chauffeured by Alan who, having worked as a lawyer on Capitol Hill, knew everything about the city. There are no tall buildings as no building may be more than 20ft higher than the width of the street in front of it. Everywhere is spotlessly clean and many open spaces mean there are no crowds either. No neon signs or huge adverts for Coke or McDonalds. This is my kind of city! I had an obligatory pose for a photo outside the Whitehouse, not realising that the view we often see is actually the back of it, the front not quite so appealing.
Gillian arrived home late Sunday, so I didn't get to meet her until Monday afternoon when she returned from work. I'm lucky to have such a great family.
It was so nice to relax and have a couple of days off the bike, busying myself helping Alan scrape the loose paint from his shed and going for walks with the dog. I even got to see a Manchester United game in between all the political debates.

If it wasn't for the worsening oil leak, I had enough money left to stay in America another two or three weeks, but I need something to live on at home until I find a job, and I owe my dad for clearing my credit card bill for me!
So my flight was 9.40 PM Wednesday, and I'd planned to arrive in New York a day early to see the sights. I wasn't too keen on riding the bike across a busy city and decided to stay in Potomac another day, hoping to plan a proper visit to New York when I return someday.

I had a choice between Route 1 into Philadelphia, crossing several interesting towns, or Interstate 95, via the infamous New Jersey Turnpike. I had about 6 hours to cover 250 miles. Not knowing how long it would take on Route 1, chose the Interstate to make sure I had time to drop the bike at Valley Stream, Long Island. I smiled to myself when I saw a sign for New York. After 5 months of travelling I was actually going to make it! The Turnpike was reasonably quiet compared to the morning rush hour around DC, and I made it to Staten Island in good time. I was annoyed at being charged the same as cars across all the tolls, varying between $2 and $8, but they charge by the axle and I couldn't argue. Even if I could wheelie that far I still have two axles! A total of $24 in tolls, got me across Staten and Coney Island, where I could see the Statue of Liberty and the Empire State Building in the distance. I was running lower on fuel than I planned, due to the riding the high speed Interstate all day. I asked a guy how many miles left to JFK. He said 10 minutes. I needed to know exactly how many miles to work out the fuel because the bike needed to be almost empty for the flight home. I explained I needed to know the exact mileage. He told me it wouldn't be any more than 10 minutes. None the wiser I chose to put another gallon in the tank. The small busy streets around Valley Stream were a nightmare, especially as I arrived from a different junction than planned due to the fuel stop. As soon as I recognised a street name and got my bearings, I found the Berklay Building where I'd leave the bike. I disconnected the battery, sorted the luggage and left it in the capable hands of Greg. http://www.shipmybike.com/
The cost of flying the bike was around 20% higher than shipping, $1945 inc. customs and fuel surcharges etc. but only 1-2 weeks, opposed to 6-8 weeks in a container ship. I'd thought seriously about selling the bike to save money but if I don't get it home I'll feel like the trip wont be completed.
One of the guys offered a lift to JFK in a huge International truck. I had over 6 hours until my flight but I would be glad of the rest. Huge signs on the approach to the airport tell you which terminal the airlines fly from, in my case Aer Lingus, terminal 4. If you forget that, it's also colour coded, so we followed the blue lane to the blue terminal. Each terminal is like a small town with plenty to keep me occupied. A small chubby guy in a flat cap and over sized sunglasses was ordering a hot coffee. Could he have it hot? It must be hot, can't have it too hot. He kept repeating over and over until he got his coffee. He overheard me asking for a cappuccino.
"You're Russian, right?"
"No, English actually."
"But you have Russian relatives, right?"
"No, English."
"You must have grandparents who are Russian?"
"No, all English, from England, that's why I'm speaking with an English accent, I'm not Russian!"
"But you have such big hands!"
"Well, thanks for noticing but I don't think they're out or proportion..."
"Can you do this?" he asked, touching both earlobes with one hand.
"Er, no, not than I've ever..."
"I can! I'm an exception!"
"You certainly are! I believe my coffee is ready, nice to meet you." I shook his huge fat hand.
"Gardam! That's some mitt you have there! Have a nice flight!" He slapped me on the shoulder with his side of beef sized hand.
"Er thanks, I will!"

Wow, you're a real trooper! Er, thanks, so are you!

I've tried to avoid American fast food and eat healthy as much as possible, very important on a long trip. I was warned to avoid truck stops but I was interested to see as much American culture as possible. I think there were a few 'cultures' growing in the corner of the restaurant and I was offered a booth or a table. I chose the booth because the mountainous truck drivers wouldn't fit in them. I sat fascinated buy several guys returning frequently with as much food as they could carry from the 'all you can eat' shrimp bar. I guessed it may be called 'all you can eat' because that's all there is on offer. I've seen some rotund gentlemen on my travels but when the light was blocked by a drifting marquee, that on closer inspection appeared to be a T-shirt with a 'Michelin man' inside, I thought it was about time this guy was taught the difference between 'want' and 'need.'
I managed to find a single quart of engine oil amongst all the essential accessories a truck driver needs, like a 'Colonel Bogey' horn, an LED Stars and Stripes, so everyone knows where you're from and a spare wheel arch covered in blue lights which I assume often gets used as a shoe horn to enter the vehicle. The bike had barely used any oil on the whole trip until the clutch arm leak, which is steadily getting worse. At this rate I should make it to New York but without knowing the exact cause of the problem, it's a bit of a worry.

Ohio looked quite interesting after the vast plains of Wyoming, Nebraska and Iowa. Indiana was very welcoming and friendly, and Ohio was no exception. Randy, a State Trooper from 'twenty minutes East' from this rest stop, offered to show me around the local station. I had some strange looks from passing motorists, not unusual for me but fraternising with police officer must be a rare sight. Especially when everyone wanted to join in for the photos.
"Alan Kelly, wow, you're a celebrity! I've got a sister in Manchester England. I'll have to remember your name for when you're on the TV! Good luck Alec!"

Riding close behind a police cruiser at 70mph, with a huge tailback of impatient drivers along the interstate for twenty minutes was a surreal experience, but I was enjoying every minute! Usually the motorcycle is in front of the police car!
Randy was a biker himself, racing a Suzuki gsx600 for fun, and a Honda Fireblade for the road. If I was in Ohio longer, he would take me to the track for a free day racing. Very tempting but I have to keep moving East. I met all the guys, including Lisa the secretary who was sure she saw me in Oregon along the coast. After an in-depth tour of the station, even the garage where the Dodge V8 engine proudly sat after generating the power during the recent storms, essential to recharge the rows of 'Tazers,' I was given an information pack usually given to schools, in case I ever have kids of my own. I hoped to meet someone in America but I don't think women are attracted to bikers, especially one that looks like he's been living rough for five months...
Randy asked if I'd eaten that day. It was 3.30pm and a restaurant was across the street. He stuffed some cash into my hand. It was $40! I couldn't accept, but he insisted saying he made good money as an officer. No-one will believe a motorcyclist chased a policeman along the highway and was given money from him at the station!
A great guy, indeed, you might say he's a super trooper. There, I said it.

Sometimes I wonder how I arrive in such a State

The nights are drawing in and getting cold. Most of the State parks close at the end of September. At Glendo State park, Wyoming I had three sites to choose from and I was the only person there! Wyoming and Nebraska seemed larger then I expected, maybe due to the fact I'm feeling very tired and generally run down. After the excitement of Yellowstone and all the other amazing places, now I have to just keep riding and cover the miles to make it to New York. It's the first time I've actually needed to be somewhere for a long time. Many tempting motels invite me to sample their spas and luxurious pampering but luckily for me, there are many campsites along the Interstate highways. The KOA campsites in particular have everything a weary traveller needs, and at $17, perfect for my meagre budget.
Trevor and Elenor invited me over to their Behemoth RV for a couple of beers. They've been on the road for nine years, covering 49 States except North Dakota so far. Part of the 'Q-tip' brigade as they call it. Retired Americans often travel this time of year, after the summer rush and now the kids are back in school.
Strangely for me, I'm revered as an accomplished world wide traveller to most people I meet here, but to me I'm still inexperienced on my first trip!

I stopped for the obligatory free map at the first rest stop in Indiana, and was greeted by a tall man who asked me If I was 'Big Al' from England. He'd been admiring my bike, but as is often the case with Americans, they ask so many questions before I answer the first one, I don't really get a chance to explain myself. Another guy and his wife came over to me as I walked back to the bike.
'Are you Big Al? Hi, I'd like to officially welcome you to America!'
In the West, I was warned that I wouldn't find so much hospitality and friendly people as I travelled East. Most countries are wary of their neighbours, and America being so large, tends to be wary of different States. But from experience, if anything, they are just as friendly. Maybe everyone from the Mid-West onwards are judged by New York's reputation. My advice is, get to know people before making any judgement, a stranger is a potential friend you haven't met yet.

The Mississippi certainly is a 'Mighty' river, but not too inviting given it's dark brown appearance. As I walked around a small town thinking it was extremely busy and very well lit for daylight hours, I discovered I was actually inside a shop called Wal-Mart. I found it very difficult to shop for anything geared towards a single guy on a bike, mostly being offered multi pack items by the pound, quart or gallon. This explains why so many Americans drive huge trucks, they need them for the weekly groceries....

Historic Centerville, Indiana

After Yellowstone I noticed oil splattered above the right footpeg. It's leaking from a loose clutch arm. And I was led to believe Triumph never leak oil! There's no damage or any reason I can see, it's just worked loose somehow. Not something I can fix on the road, even if I knew what the problem was, I haven't got the tools, gaskets or the money! Besides, the bike is still under warranty, so when I get home, Triumph will have to fix it! I check the oil level everyday and it doesn't seem to be getting worse, but I have no choice but to keep going. I decided to stay on Interstate 80, so if the worst happens, someone will be around to help me.
Even this plan had to change because of the aftermath of Hurricane Ike, the Interstate was closed due to flooding. I wanted to avoid Chicago anyway so a diversion South East to Interstate 70, wasn't too much of a problem. In fact, I've made such good progress riding 3-400 mile days, I've now got time to visit my Dad's cousin Gillian in Potomac near Washington DC. I hope to arrive there on Sunday.
Apart from the oil leak the bike has been faultless, it's a shame I have to keep one eye on it all the time, it spoils the journey, but as long as I keep the oil topped up it should be ok. I have about 1000 miles left to New York so it will be a great shame if the bike doesn't make it after riding over 18000 so far! My body is trying to tell me it's had enough. Everything aches, especially my back after straining to move such a heavy laden machine. At least it's a different part of my back this time! Got to keep going, at least the weather should be ok for the next few days, so I can grit my teeth and pray the bike doesn't break!

Bryce Canyon, Four Corners, Getting tyred, Yellowstone.

Bryce canyon was simply beautiful. I spent a day there, even walking around some of the steep pathways enabling me to fully enjoy my personal lack of fitness. In Sunset point campsite I was greeted by the guy who runs the site, who told me of two Germans who stayed there four days ago. They matched the description of Hans and Volka, who I met in Russia, that would've been an amazing coincidence!
A quick stop at Four Corners Monument, then find some tyres!
You can't go far wrong with the roads around here, most are perfect for bikes, and the scenery is awe inspiring. I headed into Colorado with a view to get a rear tyre in Colorado Springs. I had to change my plan when over 10,000ft up the alpine passes, I noticed a bulge in the sidewall of my front tyre. At least riding a slower pace allowed me to see the view better. The Red mountains were amazing, and very cold at the summit! I stopped in Silverton for a break, then made my way to Montrose. I found a Bike dealership called Davis who specialised in Japanese bikes, who were only too pleased to supply me with two tyres. They were busy the next day, Saturday, which meant I would have to return Monday. This wasn't good news so I explained my trip and within the hour I had two Dunlops fitted with $98 off, sale price! The guys worked past closing time to help me out, again putting British dealers to shame!
The bike handles so much better without the Pirelli Scorpion front tyre from Russia. I still prefer the Michelin Anakees but the Dunlops are fine. I decided to wear them in by heading North to Yellowstone. My favorite place so far! A wolf ran into the road, and along the centreline towards me. After avoiding some buffalo earlier, and a moose I wasn't too surprised at avoiding animals that you would never see on the roads in the UK! Im met Jason Hart, a schoolteacher from Los Angeles, riding an old Hondo Goldwing 1100 painted in Army colours. We shared a campsite to save money and took a slow ride to see 'Old Faithful'. Walking around the Geysers was like a different planet! Jason was staying another night and I decided to get moving East in the morning, after he showed me how to toast marshmallows, and squash them between two sweet crackers with chocolate, known as S'mores.
I lay under the clear sky listening the the Moose whistling to themselves, I was not looking forward to heading East.
I wanted to stay in Yellowstone for a few days but as I've booked a flight home on the 23rd Sept, I need to do some serious mileage!

Public Library, Milford, Utah

Oregon is without a doubt a bikers paradise. After 1500 miles of enjoying myself, I headed South along the coast to Coos Bay. I met Steve and Nicole from Switzerland, riding two BMW 650s who are riding down to Argentina. They have a detailed map on their Sat-Nav and convinced me to ride the forest roads with them to Crater Lake. I was planning to ride to the Redwoods and San Fransisco but this journey has taught me that it's not where you go that matters as much as who you meet on the way.
Crater lake is simply stunning, as were the roads leading to it. From there Steve and Nicole are heading into the desert, and I'm going South. I'm avoiding Interstate roads as much as possible because I want to experience America, not just ride across it.
I found an amazing road down to Yosemite, probably the best so far, and it got even better as I left the valley passing El Capitan, and crossed the park to stay at Tuolumne meadows.
Too much beautiful scenery to take in, I will have to come here again one day.

Time and money are running out so it's time to head East. Crossing Nevada in a day was some task, 400 miles to Lehman caves across the loneliest roads I've ever seen. Passing a car every 10 - 20 miles! Not recommended if your head isn't as straight as the road! The heaviest rain I've ever seen followed me across the valleys between the mountains, but I just managed to keep ahead of it. One thing about riding these roads instead of the Interstates is you can choose what speed you like, there's no one else there! You can rest assured at no point did I break the speed limit....of the bike. Fuel consumption is less than economical at higher speeds and out here you have to be careful. Gas stations are few and far between.

Last nights campsite on the mountainside was one of the best yet. Next to streams and a stunning view across Nevada and Utah. Rain started to fall just as I stepped off the bike. A soul stirring storm entertained me for the evening, making my pile of firewood difficult to light, but my souvenir Yosemite newsletter made good kindling!
Mitch, a Yamaha 1200 rider recommended a few biking roads with good campsites. You can't beat local knowledge. This area has some of the best stargazing sites in the world. I had to agree after seeing some of the night skies recently. Shame it's cloudy tonight.
Today (Wednesday) I hope to see Bryce Canyon, and find a quiet campsite somewhere along the way. Yosemite was still busy, I had the last spot available, no doubt Bryce will be the same.
Colorado looks good, as do so many other places, who knows where the road will take me next?
The USA has too much to see but I'll try to see as much as possible. I must find a rear tyre soon but that's minor details....I'm enjoying myself too much.

Old Boyz in the Hood

Saturday proved to be one of the best bike rides I've ever had. Oregon is a beautiful state with perfect roads. The view from Hood mountain was as spectacular as the ride around it in Hood National Park.

Today was a different story. I wanted to write about another fantastic ride with my friend Stan Hellman but as we were returning we were plagued by a young guy trying to race us in his small Toyota. I slowed to let the idiot pass but after a mile we caught up to his steaming wreck, upside down in some brambles at the roadside. Stan called the emergencies while I ran to the car. I could hear the brambles cracking so I knew he was climbing out ok. I helped the blood soaked kid up and sat him down to calm him. Then I heard someone else in the car. The driver was trapped upside down by his seat belt. I couldn't reach him through the flattened door window. I tried to keep him calm but he was starting to panic. I had to get him out. I lay by the car and wriggled my shoulders inside. I could just reach the belt clip but his body weight was pulling down on it. I pushed as hard as I could splitting my thumb on the catch. He was free! He said he was ok to climb out. No bones seemed to be broken but he had a bad gash to the head. A car arrived with a man and wife who helped keep him calm until the ambulance arrived within 5 minutes. The medic said he had bad internal injuries and was dying. I left them to do their job. After Stan and I made statements we left cautiously. Stan was angry and I was upset at not being able to do anything to make sure he lives. I know he's in the best hands and I hope he survives.

Life is too precious to waste. Every day is a gift, that's why they call today the present day.

The lights are out, and he's off!

I spent an extra day in Seattle trying to fix my bike. Triumph at Tacoma would gladly look at the bike for me but didn't have a much needed clutch cable. Luckily, out of all the Triumph dealers here, Cascade Moto Classics in Beaverton Oregon had one in stock. As it was nearly 200 miles away I thought it best to give the bike a good check over. After much fettling, I stumbled across the cure. I'm not sure exactly what I did but the engine light stayed out! Obviously a bad connection somewhere.

I could relax for a change and plan an early start to Beaverton. I tried to phone a few campsites to check availability, but all were too busy to even reply to my messages. Thats Labor day weekend for you. Everyone is driving their 'land yachts' towing a spare car, and slowing my pace. I wish they could see the benefits of riding a motorcycle without every single creature comfort known to man. Why do you need to take your house with you? I braved the mobile buildings heading South for nearly 200 miles and amazed myself by finding the Triumph dealer at my first attempt.

A clutch cable for $40 and while I was there, asked about some spark plugs. Rick the mechanic was snowed under but if I helped him would do it right away! I doubt my local Triumph dealer would do that for me...

I took the opportunity to fit the cable and a K&N air filter that had survived the journey with me. Two hours and another $100 and I was ready to go. The bike is running perfectly. I thanked the staff for helping me at such short notice, they were amazing people and hanging out at their dealership was like being home from home. I've been told it's the best Triumph dealer in the USA and I can believe it. Thanks again guys!

www.cascademoto.com

I planned to ride to Silver Falls campsite hoping that somewhere around that area I could find a spot in one of the many sites in that region. Then something unusual happened. I had a phone call waiting in the Cascade Moto Classics office. I remembered I'd posted a message on the Triumph RAT site explaining where I'd be in Oregon that day. Stan Hellman greeted me on the phone and offered to show me some great biking roads over the weekend if I wished to stay at his place. How could I refuse such generosity?

I had time to check out the Black Bear diner before Stan arrived on a silver Tiger 955, looking considerably cleaner than my road weary machine.

That evening I was whisked around Portland in Stan's Mazda MX5, designed for people under 6ft, and sampling the locally brewed beer.
Portland is a beautiful city, full of life and I would've missed it all if it wasn't for Stan. That's what's so great about traveling, where you go isn't as important as who you meet. The people make the places what they are, so you experience it rather than just seeing it.

Tomorrow, Saturday, I've been promised to ride biking roads unlike anything I've ever seen. I can't wait.

The lights are on and I'm far from home.

I'm going to miss Port Townsend, especially the sourdough pizzas! Judging distances here takes some getting used to, everywhere is along way away but compared to Russia, not so far! It's good to be back on the road, even if it was only back to Seattle, but I promised to visit my cousin Alycia and her family. She'd booked a hotel for me which I stumbled upon accidentally, as the name had changed. There's too much information along the roads here, it's almost impossible not to look at all the neon signs, adverts and info along the way, as well as having to follow the road signs and scribbled directions on my tank bag in busy traffic. Totally different to riding in Russia.
Only a short run to Ballard to Alycia's house in a very nice area. We sat eating a traditional American dish, pizza. She has an amazing family and I'm glad to be related to such nice people.
Unfortunately my bike wasn't happy. The engine management light (or money light, mechanics tanning booth light etc.) refused to go out. It seems to run ok so I think it's a minor problem but I have to go to a Triumph dealer to be certain before crossing the US. There's one South of here in Tacoma and another one near Portland, Oregon so if it's nothing major, I can continue. The only problem I've had with the engine so far was occasionally running on 2 cylinders instead of 3. I attributed that to the poor petrol in Russia but I did it again twice here as well. Maybe a fuel injector problem caused by all the bad fuel, which will clear eventually or maybe that's why the engine light is on. It's a common problem with Triumphs to have this light stay on and usually nothing serious. I haven't touched any electrical components, so I know it's nothing I've caused which makes it harder to locate a problem.
I haven't budgeted for expensive repairs but if the worst happens I can sell the bike to get home. Not a choice I want to make, it's all I own.
The bike got me this far so I'm sure it can manage a few thousand miles more...

Captain Kelly

David took me to the customs office on Friday to fill the necessary form and get the release form stamped. Then on to Mercers new warehouse to collect the bike. Everyone I speak to mentions Rodrigo, the Brazilian I met in Vladivostok who is in a hurry to get to New York. He had been constantly pestering everyone to get his bike quickly as if it was their duty to obey him. He was long gone with his bike when I arrived and so had Geoff, who I was hoping to meet. I'm glad he got his bike and I hope it started ok, it still has Russian petrol in it!
I was lucky because David had a trailer for my bike. This meant no $50 disposal fee for the crate and I could check the bike over at his house before riding it.
On the way back we stopped at Costco, the largest shopping warehouse I've ever seen! Everything you want as long as it's bulk size!

The bank decided to cheer me up by stopping my card again. Their explanation was that there is a big problem at the moment with ATM card fraud in the US. That maybe so but as I'm here in the US I'm going to need money. Again they assured me all will be fine, unless I decide to go to Canada, where I'd be better off having cash. But every time I make a large withdrawal my card gets stopped again. Also, not being a US resident with a zip code, my credit card is basically useless in most places, as their computer systems wont accept foreign cards. Frustrating to say the least!

Early Saturday we unpacked the bike. The crate was not a good one so will be firewood for David. It's a strange sight opening a crate and seeing your bike inside but I'm glad it made it here ok. No time to check it over properly because after all the rain recently, today finally is perfect sailing weather!
The outboard motor kept flooding with fuel so David went to get some more spark plugs, leaving me on the boat with his friend Steve. Before we got going, all the safety aspects were double checked, and once safely away from the ferries, I was shown how to steer, keeping the wind in the sails. Not easy at first but I soon got the feel for it. I've never been on a sailboat before and I can see why so many people do it. It's great fun, but I prefer my bike!

I don't hate ATMs anymore, I hate the bank!

Cargozone, the Korean container company have been less than helpful. The ship had arrived late Friday night on the 15th. Luckily David knows how things work here and soon had all the information I needed via Hanjin shipping and Mercer distributors. All I needed was a bill for the amount owed to Cargozone for them to release the bike after customs had finished their checks. These checks took from Monday until Wednesday, then the container was moved to Mercer's warehouse in Fife where I can collect the bike on Thursday or Friday. One of these checks involved the USDA (Dept. of Agriculture) having to break open my crate to see what was inside. They are used to dealing with 'aloominum' crates and my crate was an insufficient wooden one made in Korea.
All I have to do is fill out a customs form in Seattle, pay Cargozone and collect the bike. Unfortunately Cargozone haven't yet sent me the bill. They assured me it would be no more than $100 but when they finally emailed me today, Thursday, it was $355 for handling and the USDA test. For some reason they wont accept a card payment which means I'll have to arrange a money order from the post office.
I withdrew $200 so I had enough cash in total to pay Cargozone, then decided to get some more to cover any more hidden costs from Mercer warehouse, but my visa didn't work.

I was well within my daily limit from an ATM but had to use all my mobile phone credit calling the UK 'helpline' because they don't have a freephone number like most places here in the USA do. They stopped my card for the same reason they stopped it in Russia. I was making large withdrawals. I again explained that not everyone accepts a card payment. All was restored and I had to wait 10 minutes before using it again. I waited longer but it still didn't work. An hour later still no luck. At least I had enough for the money order so went back with David to scan it and email it to Cargozone so they could sign the release form for the bike. I tried to add credit to my phone on my email account but unfortunately the system doesn't accept foreign issued cards without a USA postal code.
Once we returned to the post office to send the money order, a visit to Safeway to buy a phonecard and most importantly, locally brewed cold beer.
Cargozone meanwhile, have signed the release form thanking me for my business. I'm glad they appreciate my custom because it's never going to happen again. Tomorrow we head into Seattle to complete the custom form and collect the bike from Mercer's.
I really have missed my bike!

Planes and boats and....a bus

Needless to say I didn't require an ongoing flight when I entered the USA, just my fingerprints and a photo. Different countries may have different rules but is it too hard for them to communicate? Once I found my baggage I phoned David Janos, an amazing guy I met in Dubrovnik. He was travelling Europe using public transport and hiking around any mountain range that was in the way. That's the 'proper' way to travel apparently.
I followed his instructions and got the bus downtown, then walked a short way to the ferry terminal. A huge ferry wafted me across to Bainbridge Island, giving me beautiful views of Seattle and the surrounding bay. David arrived to drive me to Port Townsend via a scenic route. Such an amazing place, but I promised not to tell anyone because the locals want to keep it that way!

David designed and built his own house, and soon showed me to my accommodation. A yacht in his garden! He is also a boat builder, (and a pilot!) and before I knew it, I was set up with a computer and WI FI in the boat. He's also a computer expert....

No sooner had I phoned the airline to refund my ticket, incredibly simple and fast, I had a confirmation email in less than a minute. Customer service in the USA really is second to none.
The cool evening was spent with a cold beer on David's sailboat. If the weather is ok this week, we can go sailing! Life really is rough here but I think I could get used to it.
I love America!

Seoul, Tokyo and onwards....?

I had fun in Incheon airport due to the information on the internet being incorrect. There's always someone to ask and I was soon shuffling along queues and being herded into the departure lounge like human cattle. This is the first time I've been on a plane in 20 years! I was hoping the pilots had more training than the less than smooth local taxi and bus drivers.
I didn't expect much legroom so I wasn't disappointed when I didn't get any. Sitting behind the toilet wall and next to the galley was probably the worst seat on the plane but I was excited at moving on to another country.
Flying above the heavy rain over Seoul was a welcome change and by the time I'd identified most of the food precariously sliding around on my sloping table (my knees were too high...) I was looking down on the beautiful Japanese coastline. The weather was perfect and I guessed the huge volcano above the clouds must be mount Fuji, an awesome sight.

I had more fun at the check in desk at Tokyo airport. Apparently all Japanese tourists to the USA need an ongoing flight booked before entry otherwise they will be deported back to Japan. I said I'm British and this rule doesn't apply to me. They were adamant that this applied to everyone and told me to wait for a customs officer. Naturally I was less than impressed but the custom officer would not let me board the plane unless an onward ticket was purchased. I was lead across the airport to a United Airline desk where they assured me the ticket was fully refundable. It's all about numbers and I'm sure someone is making a profit from all these pre-booked tickets. It was getting close to boarding time and I was now at the back of the queue. Just to make me laugh even more I was chosen for a new type of search involving my bag and myself being searched and weighed so the airline can gauge an average weight of passengers. At least I was 18kg lighter! I soon relaxed into a large 'economy plus' reclining seat with almost enough legroom and a guy with a loud cough to keep me company for the next 9 hrs...

To begin any journey you must take the first step.

Mike and Jo flew home yesterday after travelling for 12 months on their BMW they nicknamed 'The Elephant.' You can see photos of their amazing journey at http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/tstories/hannan/
I shall miss them and hope to see them in Australia one day.
Last night I had a meal with Wendy choi, the lady who arranged our bike shipments for us. She also wants to travel and asked me about Turkey as she heard it was a dangerous country. Istanbul excluded as I never went there, the rest of the country is very friendly. Any country you choose someone will tell you it's dangerous but usually they are not speaking from experience. Wendy is doubtful about her travelling abilities and feels 'safe' in her job, not knowing if she will ever have the courage to go. I felt the same before I left. Once a plan was laid out and more information gathered, the ball started to roll and here I am in Korea! You never know what tomorrow may bring, travelling or not. This is the hardest thing I've ever done but also the most rewarding because of it. I doubt I could be much further away from my 'comfort zone' and like I've said before, living a rich life has nothing to do with money or possessions, it's all about experiences.
A small boy in a shopping centre today got separated from his mother because he was too scared to step onto the escalator. I held out my hand and he took it, taking the first step with me and he was fine. Sometimes you just need a helping hand to take the first step.

Tomorrow I move back into the Namsan Guesthouse for my last night in Korea. It's a case of shuffling from one place to another trying to find a room as everywhere is fully booked.
Friday is the 60th anniversary of Liberation day and is a national holiday. I hope the bus to the airport is still running! I've enjoyed Korea very much but I'm looking forward to America. Naturally I'm nervous at the prospect of going alone but given the size of my feet I can take the first three steps in one go!