A quick spin from the Ace Cafe, around the world and back.

Riding with Geoff on the M25 in the pouring rain is all I could've hoped for to end this amazing trip. The first time we'd ridden together since leaving the ferry at Sok Cho, Korea. We parked our bikes at the Ace in a special coned off area just for us, exactly where we started from. We were instantly surrounded by familiar faces that saw us set off back in April. I only expected a few to turn up in such bad weather but more and more bikes arrived and soon the car park was as overwhelmed as us. I doubt I'll ever be comfortable having my photo taken. I certainly didn't do this trip for an 'Around The World' badge! I'm just a geezer who likes riding motorcycles, but any publicity I can get for Farleigh Hospice is my pleasure.
One thing I missed on this trip was a good English breakfast, there's only so much Borsch and stale khleb a man can take! The Ace Cafe certainly serves up one of the very best. Many a time in Siberia I dreamt of what it would be like to be back at the Ace, sampling their famous sausages and proudly swapping biking stories with like minded strangers, with the same passion for motorcycles. It seemed like half a world away, and for a time actually was!

If you really want to live the dream, I've proved that anyone can do it. You will find a way. You don't need much money, you don't need previous experience, and you don't need meticulous planning. If you really want to plan a trip, don't waste time thinking of all the things you might need, just think of all the things you don't need! As long as you have a familiar reliable bike, basic tools and spares and a good quality tent that doesn't leak, you'll be fine. Even if you can't read a map, like all other things, it's an opportunity to learn! The journey may take a little longer that's all. A compass never lies, if you don't leave the road, how lost can you get?

People approached me saying they haven't got the guts to ride across Siberia, and yet they've ridden across the Scottish Highlands. What's the difference? If the worst happens, you still have to rely on a complete stranger to help you, and a Glaswegian accent is no worse than Russian! My whole trip across America was a result of meeting strangers, who became friends, leading to an extraordinary chain of events from Seattle to New York. A far better journey than any I could've planned.

When you are in the remotest of places, people are far more likely to stop and help because everyone out there is in the same boat and need to support each other to survive. I never met anybody anywhere who didn't want to help me.

Large cities where people are jostling for space, causes competitiveness, so you will take longer to find help because everyone assumes someone less busy than them can help you. This is why you can't judge Russia by Moscow, America by New York, or people by what the have, it's what they do that matters.
Some of the kindest, happy and most interesting people I met own nothing. But they are full of life, proud of who they are, what they have and give all they have to help you. They have riches beyond most peoples comprehension.

I have no house, no wife and kids, no job, no car and no money, but I am privileged, and having sampled some of what the world has to offer, consider myself to be a very rich man indeed.

To everyone who came to meet me at the Ace Cafe, expressed an interest in the trip, enjoyed my blog and donated money to Farleigh Hospice, thankyou is not a big enough word to express my gratitude.

So what next? Well it's a case of 'ridden around this planet' so when NASA realises that motorcycles are much cheaper to send to Mars than cars, and I can pretend to be under 6ft and 10 stone, who knows?

I hope to plan a smaller trip in the near future to continue raising money for Farleigh Hospice with my two brothers. Imagine three huge blokes riding Honda c90s! Who said you can't have a laugh with no money? If anyone can help with a decent c90 or two, please let me know!

Poor Circulation Grand Finale - Ace Cafe Sunday 16th November 10.30 AM

Ace Cafe London

Ace Corner

North Circular Road

Stonebridge

London

NW10 7UD

Tel: 020 8961 1000
GPS Coordinate N 51:32:26 (51.540455)

W 0:16:43 (-0.278664)
Ace Corner is the junction of Beresford Avenue and the old North Circular Road, between the A40 and the A404 (Harrow Road)

It feels a lifetime ago since we left the Ace cafe on 21st April, and strange to think we headed in one direction, East, and still ended up back where we started!

Sometimes I wonder if I actually rode all the way around the world, or if it just turned a full circle beneath me.

Settling back into 'normal' life is proving difficult, especially now I'm unemployed for the first time. Worst of all, because I gave up my job voluntarily, wasn't entitled to any Job Seekers Allowance, only receiving my first payment last week. The only way I can stay sane is by riding the bike, but that drinks almost as much petrol per mile as Geoff does coffee. So I took the first part-time job I could find, (a storeman in a shoe shop and no, they don't stock anything my size!) only to discover the JSA kindly give me £5, then take a pound for every one I earn over that amount. So I'm working for next to nothing and living on a budget of less than half of what I was on the trip!

Yesterday (Tuesday) Ongar Triumph kindly gave me a brand new Triumph Bonneville to play with while they fixed my oil leak. I made it look like a 125 but the further I rode, the more I enjoyed it. It's no sports bike, but the brakes and handling are good enough to have some fun on the B roads. Very smooth, easy to ride and the slickest gearchange on any bike I've ever ridden.

Very impressive, I didn't want to give it back! I'm already dreaming of riding one across the Rocky mountains....

My Tiger may not have as much 'street cred' as a Bonneville, but it does have an amazing engine. If I'm ever lucky enough to do another trip, I can't think of a better bike.

You never know whats around the next corner. But a motorcyclist knows taking the corner can be as much fun as finding out whats around it.

See you at the Ace!

An around the world Triumph.

After spending a long weekend enjoying the scenery with friends in Wiltshire, I paid a visit to Ongar Motorcycles today (Tuesday) to order the necessary parts so I can fix my oil leak. Brian the mechanic showed me the warranty application he'd sent to Triumph after I left last Wednesday, because he thought it was worth a try. Triumph, like most companies, don't usually honour claims without proof of regular services, but after Brian had explained my unusual journey they immediately agreed.

Unfortunately, Brian showed me an email he received from someone I didn't know suggesting that Ongar Triumph had been unhelpful toward me. This person was only trying to help my case but really should've contacted me first to get the facts before dishonouring someones reputation. Triumph had already agreed because of Brian's help. I apologised for the trouble he got from his boss after receiving this email. None of us expected Triumph to do the work, especially me, but I'm very grateful to Brian and everyone else at Ongar Motorcycles for going out of their way to help me.

Please visit their new website to see the full range of Triumph Motorcycles.

www.ongar-motorcycles.co.uk/

I've often been asked why I chose a Triumph instead of the equivalent BMW. I'm a fan of BMW but always loved Triumphs. After careful research the Tiger 955i was better in almost every aspect except off-road ability. Everything taken into consideration, especially the cost, the carrying capacity, the handling and reliability, in my opinion the Tiger is one of the best all round bikes ever made. Any all round bike is a compromise and none are perfect, but for me the Tiger is a perfect compromise. A guy my size carrying a ridiculous amout of kit is testament to how tough the Tiger is. I doubt any other road bike would've survived! Besides, it's British don't you know. Why fly the flag when you can ride it?

The Hospice Outreach Project.

Choosing a charity to support is a difficult decision. There are so many people in the world who aren't as fortunate as most of us. I have type 2 diabetes but I wanted to support people who need it most. I chose Farleigh Hospice because it's the sole provider of palliative care in Essex. Everyone knows somebody who has been affected by cancer or a life limiting illness. If there is no cure and the hospital can do no more, Farleigh Hospice continues to provide care free of charge, not only for the patients but also helping their families.

The HOP is a 7.5 ton vehicle, specially adapted from Farleigh Hospice.
It is air conditioned and heated for comfort.
The vehicle is 8.4 metres long and 3.9 metres high
When parked a special POD extends out of it to provide more internal room.
It takes 20 minutes to set up on arrival.
It will be visiting one location a day, 3 days a week.
It is estimated that the HOP will see 40 patients each day that it is out.
That means that it will visit 50 sites per year and see an estimated 6,000 patients in a year.
It is estimated that it will travel over 13,000 miles in a year around Braintree, Braintree District, Witham and Great Dunmow areas.

Extraordinary people who concentrate on life, not death. A philosophy I believe in.
This is possible only because of donations made by people who care. Most of the money raised by Farleigh comes from small donations. They need to raise £5000 each and every day to continue their vital services. A heartfelt thankyou to everyone who has donated to Farleigh Hospice.

If you wish to donate, you can do so through my just giving page until the 20th January 2009, www.justgiving.com/alankelly1
or please visit Farleigh website for information.
http://www.farleigh.org/about-farleigh-hospice.cfm
http://www.farleighhospice.org/farleigh-video.cfm

Count the garden by the flowers, never by the leaves that fall. Count your life with smiles and not the tears that roll. ~Author Unknown

The last 85 miles home.

Finally after waiting three long weeks, my bike landed at Heathrow airport on Wednesday 15th October. It should've only taken five days but cargo flights are not as regular lately. It was due to arrive on the 29th September, but didn't leave New York until the 12th October, taking the scenic route via Frankfurt to East Midlands airport before Heathrow. I decided not to use a shipping agent to save money, so I've had all the fun of contacting Lufthansa and being transferred around until finally speaking to the cargo company, to find out where to collect it. After three offices, two piles of paperwork, a long wait and £221 for customs and handling, I'm reunited with my well-travelled Triumph. It was nice to see it strapped safely to an aircraft pallet and not tied with rope inside a cheap Korean crate as it was when it arrived in Seattle.

It's strange to find your bike in a place where you didn't leave it, especially when you last saw it in a different country. I soon reacquainted myself with all my belongings that were mostly where I left them. There are a few things missing but nothing of value. Customs had made a thorough search. I was relieved to hear it start, almost at first attempt and carefully rode to the nearest petrol station. At least I don't have to call it gas anymore.

It was a joy to be riding again, even weaving through miles of stationary traffic on the M25. Probably the worst road in th UK, but I know the difference between a bad road and one thats just busy! Being caught in traffic is just an inconvenience. I doubt I'll ever again ride on roads as bad as some in Albania and Russia, well not on a road bike anyway! I felt proud to be riding in England again, with a sense of achievement, knowing that the bike had made it home safely as well as me.

I stopped at my local Triumph dealer to ask about the oil leak. Caused by an oil seal on the clutch arm, costing a grand total of 85 pence. I couldn't see how any dirt had possibly got in there...

Not straighforward to fix though, because in order to remove the clutch cover, the starter motor and engine covers have to be removed first. Add another £21 for three gaskets. Triumph wont honour the warranty because my service book isn't fully stamped. It would be if they bothered to open a dealership in Siberia! The mechanic also kindly reminded me the bike is now due for it's 24000m service at a cost of £450. I have friends in Vladivostok that would help me service it for free. Looks like I picked to wrong year to give up my job....

The road really does go around the world. The road to our future.

Many people doubted it could be done. Others said I was mad for even attempting it. I'll be honest and admit at times it was extremely difficult. Everyone doubts their own abilities, but you never know how strong you are until you have something to kick against. With perseverance, never being one to do things by half once I've committed myself, I completed an entire three course in-flight Aer Lingus meal! When you are hungry you'll eat anything.

I was surprised my wad of Dollars was enough for a coffee at the current exchange rate and in a state of shock, almost boarded a plane from Dublin to Scotland. The flight number was almost the same as mine, from the same gate, and looked close enough to my bleary eyes after no sleep all night.

I love the Irish accent, especially from a beautiful airline stewardess, and unlike most Americans, I can place accents to their countries, not that I'm bitter in any way at not being recognised as an Englishman across 19 States....

I think my luggage must have flown via Spain to Gatwick. It had obviously lost a bull fight, but there's nothing breakable, so I kicked it back into shape.

The sound of the London Estuary accent was the first sign of familiarity I'd had in a long time. It's strange how you long for something to remind you of home, even in America, it's still a foreign country with a foreign language. I had to learn to say things such as 'A Monneray Jack and oreggano toasted special foot-long with Swiss, no side and a tall double shot with a twist to go...' I had no idea what I was ordering but the staff were extremely friendly to the point of asking if I'd like it regular. A kind gesture but I had to move on, looking like a Scotsman carrying a caber and a bucket of coffee.

My brother Steve and my dad greeted me at Gatwick. I was in a dream-like state, still desperately trying to organise all the information and images, spanning five months, spinning in my mind like a spool of film and panicking, thinking I was being driven onto the wrong side of the road!

I feel lost without my bike. Due to the current worldwide economic state, there are less frequent cargo flights so I wont receive the bike until the 13th Oct. I don't think I'll really feel like I'm home until I'm riding it in no particular direction, with the sun on my back and a grin on my face and a view of the world you can only get by riding all the way around it.

I've seen some amazing man made things, awe inspiring natural scenery, met some wonderful friendly people, experiencing their lives and cultures, enriching mine. It makes no difference which country you live in, we are all the same. We all love our families, we all need food, water, shelter and friendship. Each new friend I've made represents a new magical world within me. I feel like I have buried treasure across the globe. It saddens me that countries are separated by politics, creating fear and making strangers of our neighbours.

"We are not enemies, but friends. We must not be enemies. Though passion may have strained, it must not break our bonds of affection. The mystic cords of memory will swell when again touched as surely they will be by the better angels of our nature." ~Abraham Lincoln

New York, New York!

I planned to visit the Wright-Patterson air force base, the largest air museum in the world near Dayton Ohio, where the Wright brothers first flew. But it was getting late so I stopped in Cambridge, not far from Norwich, and found a small Budget Inn at $35 a night, cost covered by the local police force! So many English town names over here! The bath was small, the water tepid and the decor circa 1960, but it was luxurious. I'd been averaging 350 mile days and covered 850 in the last two. It was one of the best cramped baths and softest of beds. Pitching the tent had become a little tedious lately!

One thing is certain in America, the coffee is always good and available everywhere, except for Budget Inns...
Early morning at a nearby gas station, a homeless guy admired my bike and my coffee. I couldn't offer him a lift to Kansas even if I wasn't carrying luggage, I was heading East. Everyone I meet in the US is so friendly I felt I had to return the favour and gave him my $17 change. A foreigner with a nice motorcycle often gives the impression of money, but it's everything I own. I don't have a house or a job either but I'm still better off than a lot of people. He hadn't eaten for two days.
It's been difficult to judge the time it takes to cover distances here, but I always plan to get ahead rather than fall behind, arriving in Potomac, Maryland a day early.

The ride across West Virginia into Maryland was beautiful, so many trees and noticeably fresher air over the mountains. My cousin Gillian was away for the weekend at her 50th school reunion, but her husband Alan (great name!) was the perfect host. I'd ridden 5000 miles since I last saw him in Seattle. Potomac is only a few miles from Washington DC but a world apart. A small village surrounded by trees and huge houses with two acres upwards. I relaxed outside watching his three horses, five deer and a fox wandering across the vast back yard!
Next day was a quiet Sunday in Washington DC, chauffeured by Alan who, having worked as a lawyer on Capitol Hill, knew everything about the city. There are no tall buildings as no building may be more than 20ft higher than the width of the street in front of it. Everywhere is spotlessly clean and many open spaces mean there are no crowds either. No neon signs or huge adverts for Coke or McDonalds. This is my kind of city! I had an obligatory pose for a photo outside the Whitehouse, not realising that the view we often see is actually the back of it, the front not quite so appealing.
Gillian arrived home late Sunday, so I didn't get to meet her until Monday afternoon when she returned from work. I'm lucky to have such a great family.
It was so nice to relax and have a couple of days off the bike, busying myself helping Alan scrape the loose paint from his shed and going for walks with the dog. I even got to see a Manchester United game in between all the political debates.

If it wasn't for the worsening oil leak, I had enough money left to stay in America another two or three weeks, but I need something to live on at home until I find a job, and I owe my dad for clearing my credit card bill for me!
So my flight was 9.40 PM Wednesday, and I'd planned to arrive in New York a day early to see the sights. I wasn't too keen on riding the bike across a busy city and decided to stay in Potomac another day, hoping to plan a proper visit to New York when I return someday.

I had a choice between Route 1 into Philadelphia, crossing several interesting towns, or Interstate 95, via the infamous New Jersey Turnpike. I had about 6 hours to cover 250 miles. Not knowing how long it would take on Route 1, chose the Interstate to make sure I had time to drop the bike at Valley Stream, Long Island. I smiled to myself when I saw a sign for New York. After 5 months of travelling I was actually going to make it! The Turnpike was reasonably quiet compared to the morning rush hour around DC, and I made it to Staten Island in good time. I was annoyed at being charged the same as cars across all the tolls, varying between $2 and $8, but they charge by the axle and I couldn't argue. Even if I could wheelie that far I still have two axles! A total of $24 in tolls, got me across Staten and Coney Island, where I could see the Statue of Liberty and the Empire State Building in the distance. I was running lower on fuel than I planned, due to the riding the high speed Interstate all day. I asked a guy how many miles left to JFK. He said 10 minutes. I needed to know exactly how many miles to work out the fuel because the bike needed to be almost empty for the flight home. I explained I needed to know the exact mileage. He told me it wouldn't be any more than 10 minutes. None the wiser I chose to put another gallon in the tank. The small busy streets around Valley Stream were a nightmare, especially as I arrived from a different junction than planned due to the fuel stop. As soon as I recognised a street name and got my bearings, I found the Berklay Building where I'd leave the bike. I disconnected the battery, sorted the luggage and left it in the capable hands of Greg. http://www.shipmybike.com/
The cost of flying the bike was around 20% higher than shipping, $1945 inc. customs and fuel surcharges etc. but only 1-2 weeks, opposed to 6-8 weeks in a container ship. I'd thought seriously about selling the bike to save money but if I don't get it home I'll feel like the trip wont be completed.
One of the guys offered a lift to JFK in a huge International truck. I had over 6 hours until my flight but I would be glad of the rest. Huge signs on the approach to the airport tell you which terminal the airlines fly from, in my case Aer Lingus, terminal 4. If you forget that, it's also colour coded, so we followed the blue lane to the blue terminal. Each terminal is like a small town with plenty to keep me occupied. A small chubby guy in a flat cap and over sized sunglasses was ordering a hot coffee. Could he have it hot? It must be hot, can't have it too hot. He kept repeating over and over until he got his coffee. He overheard me asking for a cappuccino.
"You're Russian, right?"
"No, English actually."
"But you have Russian relatives, right?"
"No, English."
"You must have grandparents who are Russian?"
"No, all English, from England, that's why I'm speaking with an English accent, I'm not Russian!"
"But you have such big hands!"
"Well, thanks for noticing but I don't think they're out or proportion..."
"Can you do this?" he asked, touching both earlobes with one hand.
"Er, no, not than I've ever..."
"I can! I'm an exception!"
"You certainly are! I believe my coffee is ready, nice to meet you." I shook his huge fat hand.
"Gardam! That's some mitt you have there! Have a nice flight!" He slapped me on the shoulder with his side of beef sized hand.
"Er thanks, I will!"